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    Car dies when revving

    I have a 1986 BMW 325 with about 137,000 miles. I replaced the spark plugs, fuel pump/fuel filter, in-tank fuel pump, alternator and battery. I just got the car started again after a few months.(It had a bad alternator so the car would not start.)
    I drove it with no problems the other day. Now I am having a similar problem like the one before the alternator went bad. I go to start the car and it starts and I let it idle for about 5 minutes and I go to rev it and it wants to turn off. If I rev it high enough it'll shut off. I then try to start it again, engine turns over but will not turn on. I am not sure what the problem is anymore.

    *Key notes*

    I can hear the inline fuel pump under the car on the driver side when I turn the key, so I know the fuel pump is working.

    *UPDATE*

    I feel so dumb for this. Back in 2018 I had bought a brand new Fuel Pump Relay thinking it would be an easy fix. Plugged it in turn the key no luck. Returned the FPR and later on I replaced the 2 fuel pumps and no luck. OBVIOUSLY. Fast forward to today 18 March. Ordered a used OEM FPR for $5 just to see if it would help. CAR STARTS AND RUNS. Drove it around a bit and it’s just like I remembered.

    I am going to lower it soon, new 15” wheels and tires, new front suspension as well. Wish me luck!
    Last edited by Guti86; 03-18-2020, 05:29 PM.

    #2
    Just cause you can hear the pump running doesn't mean it's good. It could be overheating and that's why it shuts off.

    Try this. Let it idle for a minute, then floor it so it dies. Try cranking it for 30 seconds. Pull the spark plugs. Are they wet or dry? If they're wet, pull the fuel fuse (#11) and then have a friend crank while you hold the removed spark plug in the wire near the chassis. Does it spark?

    If you have fuel and spark then it's probably an air calculation issue. Either the AFM, the temp sensor, or the DME could be at fault.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3

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        #4
        Mine engine is doing the same thing. Once it warms up it does much better. I am pretty sure it is the fuel pressure regulator. Have fuel coming out of the vac. hose that is attached to
        the regulator.
        Let me know what you find out on your car.
        jm

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          #5
          Are you getting any check engine light if so get it scanned
          looks like you check a lot already
          My guess (not a professional)

          possibly the Throttle Position Sensor or even the 02 sensor (80 dollars at auto zone)
          or something easier like a loose wires grounds, (TPS plugged into the CPS harness they are the same on mines)

          Good Luck
          [1991, E-30 325i, 5-Speed, M20, Brillantrot] [1998, B5 Passat 1.8t] [2007, R6 Yamaha] [2011, Tundra 5.7]

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            #6
            *UPDATE*

            Disclaimer! I feel so dumb for admitting this.

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              #7
              Nice
              [1991, E-30 325i, 5-Speed, M20, Brillantrot] [1998, B5 Passat 1.8t] [2007, R6 Yamaha] [2011, Tundra 5.7]

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                #8
                Back to square one! It did not want to stay on anymore. Every once in a while it stayed on but idled very rough. I replaced the fuel injectors and that did not change anything.
                I checked the spark plugs and the first one (closest to the cab) was carbon fouled and some other ones had oil in the threads I am not sure where the leak is from.

                On another note I ordered a new head gasket kit, head bolts and timing belt kit.

                Could a blown head gasket be the cause of such rough idle?
                In regards to the oil on the spark plugs should I replace the valve cover gasket?

                PS.
                I drained the coolant so i can replace replace the timing belt and remove the head so currently the car is not running.

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