Intake Manifold bottom tube Question

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  • Mastrcruse
    R3V Elite
    • Sep 2005
    • 5340

    #1

    Intake Manifold bottom tube Question

    Can someone help me understand how this goes back in? Can I follow the diagram from Realoem? Talking 9, 10, 11, 12. Looks like there is a o-ring in the block already.

    Also, procedure as I put the manifold back on? Put the tube in and then place the intake on top? Or install all at once?
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  • MrBurgundy
    R3V Elite
    • Mar 2012
    • 5294

    #2
    The way I do it, contrary to what you're going to read about here, is just hang the manifold on the studs of cylinders number 3/4 after you set the tube in the back

    As it hangs there (the manifold), you can force the tube into the block to the point where the spring is completely depressed. When you reach that point, use your other hand that's obviously not compressing the spring to slide the intake down to the head. Then you can slowly release the tube up into the intake.

    You don't need any zip ties or anything like that to put it in. Just some elbow grease. It's not as hard as some people make it out to be.
    Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2024 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

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    • Mastrcruse
      R3V Elite
      • Sep 2005
      • 5340

      #3
      Originally posted by MrBurgundy
      The way I do it, contrary to what you're going to read about here, is just hang the manifold on the studs of cylinders number 3/4 after you set the tube in the back

      As it hangs there (the manifold), you can force the tube into the block to the point where the spring is completely depressed. When you reach that point, use your other hand that's obviously not compressing the spring to slide the intake down to the head. Then you can slowly release the tube up into the intake.

      You don't need any zip ties or anything like that to put it in. Just some elbow grease. It's not as hard as some people make it out to be.
      Thanks man!

      i believe my original one has an o ring on the top, spring, washer, oring (in block). Can you (or others) confirm what parts and order there is?

      Comment

      • zaq123
        E30 Fanatic
        • Jul 2016
        • 1364

        #4
        Originally posted by Mastrcruse

        Thanks man!

        i believe my original one has an o ring on the top, spring, washer, oring (in block). Can you (or others) confirm what parts and order there is?
        just think about it:

        o-rings seal it, washers retain o-rings and the spring applies needed tension on the whole assembly. So looking at the tube top to bottom:
        o-ring,washer........................spring,washer,o-ring.

        Pick up a tube of Molykote 55 o-ring grease. It's made specifically for o-rings and once installed, it makes o-ring to swell up just enough to get a better seal.

        Comment

        • digger
          R3V Elite
          • Nov 2005
          • 5911

          #5
          washers aren't to retain the top o-ring- the washers sandwhich the spring.

          o-ring in block
          washer on o-ring in block
          spring on washer
          washer on lower step of tube (not upper)
          tube and washer in block
          only o-ring at top
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

          Comment

          • djjerme
            R3V Elite
            • Sep 2010
            • 5082

            #6
            I’ve done it both ways.. the zip ties and like Burg, just hang it loose on the studs and squeeze it under. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
            2016 Ford Flex
            2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

            Comment

            • digger
              R3V Elite
              • Nov 2005
              • 5911

              #7
              make it easy for yourself, a couple of zip ties ftw.

              lube the top o-ring to
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment

              • zaq123
                E30 Fanatic
                • Jul 2016
                • 1364

                #8
                Originally posted by digger
                washers aren't to retain the top o-ring- the washers sandwhich the spring. o-ring in block washer on o-ring in block spring on washer washer on lower step of tube (not upper) tube and washer in block only o-ring at top
                How certain are you about washers? My original engine (never disassembled as far as I can tell except TB jobs) had it like I described. It did make sense to me as well since top of the springs sits fine against the tubes bottom ridge and o-ring probably wonÂ’t do the same against tubes top ridge since oring is flexible.....Am I understanding this wrong? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment

                • digger
                  R3V Elite
                  • Nov 2005
                  • 5911

                  #9
                  the top oring doesnt fully seat and isnt compressed axially when you put the washer at the top and will be more prone to leaks. the washer prevents it going fully in and the small edge break / chamfer on the counterbore limits how effective the seal can be . the raised part on the tube is a perfect fit for the counterbore in the intake and allows the o-ring to be fully seated. the washer also stops the tube going into the bore of the manifold and being fully located

                  you dont need the 2nd washer at the top of the spring in reality as you only need 1, but IMO you dont want it at the very top o-ring.
                  Last edited by digger; 11-22-2019, 07:08 PM.
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                  Comment

                  • digger
                    R3V Elite
                    • Nov 2005
                    • 5911

                    #10
                    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                    Comment

                    • zaq123
                      E30 Fanatic
                      • Jul 2016
                      • 1364

                      #11
                      Originally posted by digger
                      Hmmm, I guess I should minimize the chance of any leaks and change it With ITBs, can I remove it without removal of the center section or I need new intake gasket now?

                      Comment

                      • digger
                        R3V Elite
                        • Nov 2005
                        • 5911

                        #12
                        if you installed the o-ring in the manifold first and it was seated against the horizontal face and then you pushed the tube through with washer you'll probably be ok and id leave it.
                        if you install the washer and o-ring on the tube and pushed it in it will be iffy moreso on the RHD manifold. i did this the first time

                        the RHD doesnt have the chamfer so the radial sealing of the o-ring works better
                        Last edited by digger; 11-22-2019, 10:42 PM.
                        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                        Comment

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