Took her out for a spin, mostly to seat the rings. I will do a detailed update tomorrow evening, but long story short - she definitely runs!
I do think that either something is up with my wideband or else my AFRs are totally fubar. It seems to jump between extremely lean (maximum AFR) and rich (minimum AFR). There are places where it looks like the AFR *is* extremely rich though, as it is reading slightly higher than the minimum. I don't think the gauge/controller is resetting, but currently flying solo so it is hard to keep an eye on everything while also driving a very much not tuned M20. Anyway, it may have interfered with my ring seating, if it really was running mid 8s AFR. At times it seemed totally fine though, (11-16ish range) and it also didn't smell extremely rich, so hopefully it did not in fact fuck with my ring seating. I plan on digging into a bunch more tomorrow before taking it out again (on fresh oil).
Car definitely has significantly more power, even un-tuned as it is.
Brakes are also good - going I didn't take them to lockup, but they absolutely stop the car and are not really any effort at all to use. I do need to fine tune pedal ratio and whatnot though, as it is the travel seems maybe a little long, with the setup I have at the moment you need to push them in a noticeable amount to generate stopping power, which a bigger cylinder would probably not need to do (but would be stiffer). So long story short - fine for street, not ideal for track, and my initial run of numbers seems to have came out pretty good in estimating a reasonable pedal effort vs. stopping power.
I could hear something sometimes rubbing/scraping on my drive. Not sure what, need to narrow it down a bit.
Clutch feels completely fine.
Anyway, bigger update tomorrow night.
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She runs! (Ran for about 4-6 minutes total so far, I will probably put another 5 minutes on it at 1500rpmish idle while I fine tune timing then I want to get it on the street and seat the rings).
Issue is my cam trigger is inverted. Need to flip that around (at the moment just added 360 deg. to the wheel trigger. Going to do that and try and dial it all in with a timing light quickly, then probably do an oil change and get the actual break in drive done (I made quite a few attempts at starting it yesterday... I don't want fuel in the oil to damage my bearings).)
Also think I have an exhaust leak (big surprise there, what a cluster fuck that is right now). I know the phone mic is kind of shitty - but if anyone with some more M20 experience has any feedback regarding sound etc. please, let me know.
Three videos are linked: first two are me starting it in the shop (accidently cut the video short). Second one is after I drove it about 15 feet up the hill and it is sitting there idling for about a minute and a half. You can see it looks very rich in the video, I definitely need to figure that out too but I am not sure if it is the ASE or the VE table (If it is the table or something else then I care quite a bit, I don't want to wash the cylinders while seating the rings).
Brakes seem to work, definitely need to adjust pedal (a bit of a dead zone, feel fine once past that. I have not adjusted pedal at all yet though, hopefully that is fairly painless).
I have also attached links to a log of the idle run and the latest tune file. Again, if anyone with MS experience wants to take a look I would greatly appreciate it!
Videos:
Files: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CTh...ew?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sqa...ew?usp=sharing
Feels goooooooood
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Almost there...
Trying to actually get it to start at this point - playing with fuel and just generally everything.
Motor is essentially starting then dying, I can pretty easily get it to hit 1500-1800 RPM but it is immediately shutting off, which makes me suspect ASE (and/or possibly my idle valve). I suppose it could also be timing, the CPS has been converted to a hall (angle should be close to factory. I have a timing light to verify and properly adjust but I would like to actually get the motor fully started first, if possible).
I have attached the log file and tune, if anyone is curious or wants to point out something I am doing blatantly wrong. Going to keep hammering away at it tomorrow. Unfortunately it is rather cold out right now (around 2-3 deg C) which makes this whole process a bit of a pain in the ass, since I am freezing my balls off. My best guess at the moment is it is fuel related, if you look at the end of the log you can see it is dumping quite a bit of fuel to get it to basically start (i.e. 1500+ RPM) right before it dies and I was at least able to move the peak around a fair bit playing with the cranking pulse and (mostly) ASE and throttle.
Logfile: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16JF...ew?usp=sharing
Tune: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SDS...ew?usp=sharing
So close!Leave a comment:
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Did not quite get it all done this weekend.. I have a leaking AN hose end I need to replace (it is leaking because I tried to re-use it, after routing fuel lines and getting everything else in I realized I had to cut it shorter).
That said, car is essentially there, aside from some exhaust bits. Radiator needs to be dropped in a coolant bled as well, but that is a fairly quick process. Oil is filled, priming the oil pump with a drill shows a oil pressure comes up right away. Cranked engine over a few times with the starter to validate triggering and it also sounds like it is compressing air, so that is all good. Power steering is filled and bled as much as can be without the pump running. I managed to bring fuel pressure up to around ~35 PSI (I have the regulator set quite low at the moment) when I caught that leaking hose end - everything else seems OK. Remains to be seen if that is true under higher pressure and temperature, but so far so good.
Clutch is bled and seems to be working. Not much else to do at this point aside from kludge in the cat and muffler, fix that hose and fire it up.
Some snapshots:
My wonderful partner - she has much better pipe handline skills than I do.
I gave her a bending spring and she managed to whip these up pretty quick.
Crank and Cam signal look good... air, spark, but no fuel :(
Fitting should be here maybe as early as Wednesday. Once I have it in hand it is time for final fuel system checks then I am firing it up.
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Aiming to actually fire up the engine Sunday... last major outstanding item is some fuel line changes.
Yesterday evening and this evening I drained the old (but, by the look and smell of it, probably still good) fuel from the tank. Managed to kludge in the DW400... although I must admit there are a few issues with it that will (eventually) be resolved.
All of the factory fuel system is gone at this point, at least so far as lines, filters etc. in the feed and return path, with the exception of the actual fuel pump bracket. At some point in the future I will figure out a swirl pot setup and replace that as well, and possibly even move the tank at that point.
I plan on running and bending the 1/2" stainless hard line underneath the car tomorrow, then it is just going through and torqueing/sealing all the fuel line fittings and making a final few connections.
I also need to connect the drive shaft and exhaust back up, dropped trans last weekend and got the pilot bearing in as well as changed the trans mounts out.
In terms of outstanding items for startup, aside from the above, I need to:- Get Rad in, tighten up final few hoses.
- Plumb in the valve cover breather hose to the catch can. Mocked this up tonight, at this point I have all the bits I need.
- Tighten up a few fittings.
- Torque plugs.
- Tighten power steering lines.
- Torque main crank bolt.
- Belts.
- Fill oil, coolant, etc and prime oil pump.
- A few other electrical connections like horn and whatnot, as well as connecting tach output wire.
Janky fuel pump setup 101:
The issue is the DW *barely* fits through the hole on its own. Had to get a bit creative.
I won't be running E85 until I drop the tank anyway, Poking around in it with the boroscope I noticed a number of cable ties and other crap inside.
The DW is definitely jammed up against the inside of the 'pot', and the pickup isn't as low as I would like it.... Not ideal, but it will have to do. I will just need to keep it above a quarter tank I guess.
Other concern is the additional power draw of this pump. I have the wiring kit for it but I may just see how she goes, I would rather avoid redoing that portion of the harness for now if possible.
Feed and return lines. Ever so slightly larger than factory, but eh, they fit. These will make with the stainless down where the factory filter, dampener and secondary pump were, which are now all gone.
Also, it turns out the return line acts like a siphon and drains the majority of the tank on its own.
Definitely no pilot bearing there. Oops. Those fucking bolts on top of the trans are a nightmare, should have just pulled the entire damn engine again.
Ended up going with AKG mounts instead of the poly mounts from IE. Pretty sure the poly mounts should have come with big washers or something; as it was my welded transmission tab broke at about a third of the (lower) torque spec for the mounts, because it was sinking into them. I didn't get the tab re-welded, but am about 10,000 times happier with the AKG mounts and little reinforcement bracket plate I have..
Anyway, for startup my plan is basically this:- Castrol GTX 10W-30, conventional oil.
- 1/2 bottle redline break in additive.
- Manually prime oil pump using drill. Monitor oil pressure using fancy sensors everywhere.
- Slowly turn over engine by hand a few times while priming pump, just to ensure everything is fucking drenched.
- Attempt startup
- If it runs, great. Go to 6.
- If it takes a few minutes of fiddling with tune then runs... go to 6.
- If it takes more than a few minutes of cranking to get going, I will plan on draining and replacing oil once I have the engine starting. This is to avoid possibly flooding oil with fuel, which is probably more of a risk now with unseated piston rings than it would normally be.
- Let run for 5 minutes, 10 max to circulate and bleed coolant. Do some general checks (like listening to ensure all cylinders are firing). Idle will be at ~1500 RPM.
- She will have to sit for a few evenings more. I need to adjust some brake lines and take care of some other bits before I am comfortable to do break in.
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Well, the engine wiring is done! (Other than some tie downs and a little routing cleanup).
So, to summarize, I have knocked off the wiring for the following in the last two weeks:- Oil Pressure/Temperature (Bosch PST-F 1)
- Coolant Pressure/Temperature (Bosch PST-F 1)
- Fuel Pressure/Temperature (Bosch PST-F 1)
- Relays (Main relay, O2, Fuel pump and Fan)
- Coil packs and plugs
- Injectors
- Flex fuel sensor
- Knock sensor
- Wideband O2
- Cam position
- Crank position (converted to a threaded hall sensor. Same one they sell on DIY, the red threaded unit, but you can get them quite a bit cheaper from digikey).
- Idle Valve
- Starter and alternator
- M50 variable TPS
- Glass bead IAT sensor.
- Spark/coils is fairly easy. Using the MS3 spark output mode (this is important, you don't want to use a generic on/off mode and cook the coil packs accidently) I just used a spare plug, rested on the valve cover, and plugged into each plug wire then fired the appropriate channel on the MS3 and watch the plug spark. Note that the MS3 fires A through F, in alphabetical order, so the coils (and injectors) need to be wired based on the firing order, and not 1-A, 2-B, etc.
- Injectors are also fairly easy. Mine are powered off the fuel pump relay, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse (actually pulled this when I started wiring, since my return fuel line is not currently connected) and used the MS3 test mode to turn on the fuel pump, then manually fired each injector in order. Running them in the pulsed output mode, you can rest a finger on the lower portion of each injector and feel it 'tick' to verify it is the correct injector that is triggering.
- The Bosch pressure/temperature combination sensors only underwent a quick, basic test. For pressure, I just blew on the sensor and watched the reading jump up about 20kpa, which is far from a full range test but well above the sensor noise floor. For temperature, a few seconds with the heat gun (at a comfortable distance) clearly warms it up significantly .
- The flex fuel sensor is a bit harder to test, since I don't have any E85 on hand and I am not quite 100% ready on the fueling side yet. The sensor outputs a pulse train that the MS interprets - this has a frequency range that varies based on ethanol content and a pulse width that varies based on temperature. The sensor without any fuel flowing through it reads, big surprise, 0% ethanol - this was confirmed by verifying the frequency is at the extreme bottom end of the range (i.e. adjust the valid input minimum from 50-51 Hz and the sensor 'faults'). Temperature was verified again, with a heat gun, although this takes a while as you want to be gentle, and the sensor needs time to soak/isn't very fast responding.
- The knock sensor was not tested. There is no easy way, AFAIK, to test the sensor and wiring to the MS without the engine running. With the engine running it should be fairly straightforward.
- O2 sensor has also not been fully tested. This will be pretty quickly verified once the engine starts up, however. The O2 power circuit was validated (i.e. activating the O2 relay via the MS output signal turns on the wideband controller).
- Idle valve operation was also verified using the MS test mode, and despite opening myself up to dirty jokes, blowing air through the valve at various settings to see if it is opening and closing.
- Crank and Cam position were verified by switching the ignition triggering in the MS to 'Log crank and cam' and recording a composite log as I manually turned the engine over with a wrench about half a dozen times (which is somewhat hard work with the plugs in, probably should have pulled them). You can see the pulse train appear for the main toothed gear when I am rotating the engine, and every so often a single pulse that indicates the cam sensor.
- Starter and alternator have not been tested.
- TPS was tested as well, rather obviously by opening and closing the throttle.
- IAT sensor was tested by blowing hot air into the throttle body with a heat gun and watching the temperature rise a few dozen degrees.
There are also a few hoses left to run, mainly the valve cover vent, and I need to fabricate up a mounting stud for the knock sensor.
A few pictures of the progress so far:
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Put in a solid couple of days on the wiring this weekend. Managed to accomplish the following:- Relay wiring changes to power the Megasquirt. Also decided to power the fuel injectors from the FP relay, as recommended per the MS documentation, which is a bit different from the factory setup where, to my understanding, they are powered off the main relay.
- MS powers up when the key is on. Very nice to have this functioning so that you can easily sanity check sensors as you wire them in.
- Intake air temp is wired. Needs calibration (I have already got the necessary docs from ID, so I just need to get around to generating the MS INF file for the sensor), but a heat gun blowing hot air into the throttle body shows very definite movement in the upward direction.
- ICV is wired. Quick test of trying to blow through the valve indicates the MS open and closed positions are setup correctly, although I have not actually verified PWM range (i.e. is valve only opening to 50% or 100% when the MS thinks it is at 100%?)
- TPS is wired. Also adjusted throttle set screw so that there is ~0.003" of clearance between the plate when the throttle is closed. Is this the correct clearance? I was also reading 0.015" somewhere. I am also seeing a range of 1-708 ADC counts, not roughly 1023. I haven't actually done the math WRT the resistance range of the TPS, does this seem correct or is it potentially a problematic TPS?
- C101 connector is fully wired and integrated into the harness. Interesting tidbit that I did not realize - C101 on the early models doesn't include the tach signal pin, this comes off a separate connector that runs under the dash. Which I specifically remember thinking was some aftermarket garbage piece (when I was pulling factory ECM) that somebody had installed for some reason when they wired in the aftermarket radio.
- Injectors are all wired. Have not actually ran through and manually tested/listened for clicks yet though.
- The Bosch PTS sensor for the coolant is wired and crudely tested (it needs calibration as well, I have not created the custom calibration file for it yet). The NTC does respond as would be expected to touch though, and if I blow on the sensor I can get the pressure reading to jump up a small amount.
- Factory connector for the instrument cluster temperature sensor is in the harness and ready to be plugged in. Keep forgetting to bring the sensor from the house to the shop, but I am not really too concerned about getting it working.
- Flex fuel sensor is wired. There is not fuel in the lines (in fact, I have not actually connected the return to the hardline yet), but it reads 0-1% ethanol content and temperature readings look realistic. A heat gun on very low in the vicinity for a couple minutes moved the temp up 5 degrees, which I confirmed came back down after a bit.
- Starter and alternator. I did not actually test the starter yet, I have not put any clutch fluid in and I would rather not turn anything over (other than by hand) until I get the trans out and install the pilot bearing I forgot.
- Bosch PTS on the fuel filter.
- Bosch PTS on the oil tee (capped for now, but will eventually feed the blower) where the old oil pressure switch was.
- SPAL fan wiring.
- Wideband O2.
- All six coilpacks (trigger, grounds, power and plug wiring).
- Crank and cam position sensors.
- Tach.
- Knock sensor.
- All the other little goodies, like wheel speed sensors and interior bits such as the clutch switch. These I will wait on though, big focus is core engine control stuff at the moment, then getting trans sorted. Plus I need to figure out connectors and an adapter place for the hall sensors I am planning on using, plus there is some testing to be done to determine if they will work with the factory ABS reluctor rings or not (dimensions are close, but not in the 'ideal' range, so it remains to be seen if it is good enough).
You can see the coolant PTS sensor on the shock tower.
Here it is installed, and some of the injectors.
Pins for the Bosch connectors (same style for injectors and for the PTS). While I am quite happy with how these turned out, they are slooooow to do with the wrong tools and a soldering iron.
One more shot of the shiny goodness.
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Managed to knock off one of my items tonight, and that was getting the fuel rail properly mounted. The Nuke fuel rail is substantially larger than the factory one - it is roughly 0.7" internal diameter, and while I didn't bother measuring it against the factory rail, suffice to say it is much bigger.
I went through a few different attempts to get it to seat properly - first two tries I was avoiding modifying the manifold, and long story short I could not get it to work, the angle of the injectors was just wrong.
Tonight I pulled the manifold and cut/ground down the fuel rail mounting points until they were essentially flush with the weird crosshatching on the manifold. This had two advantages - it let me angle the rail correctly (or at least as close to correct as I can figure. The injectors may even be a little bit further angled, I don't have the best reference material. If that is the case it is easy enough to shim with some washers, and maybe if I feel like burning extra money at the dyno I could try a couple slightly different angles and see if it makes any meaningful difference.
Anyway, here is some eyecandy:
Aluminium shavings EVERYWHERE, naturally. Cleaned everything out as best I could, obviously, even with the covers some still got in.
I also had to adjust the rail so it would clear the Bosch PTS. Bit of a chonky bastard compared to the factory temperature sensor. Anyway, it barely fits with room for the connector now.
Vacuum lines are also pretty much all in place. The vac station pics up off the throttle body with the 6-AN fitting, and the two 4AN lines on the bottom run off to the MAP sensor and FPR respectively.
I would like to get the majority of the coolant hoses loosely in place tomorrow, along with the return fuel line, and hopefully locate my other Y fitting which has mysteriously disappeared so I can completely wrap up the fuel system (in the engine bay). At that point I can basically go to town wiring, although I do still need a few bits from Digikey which I will get in early next week.
Note that I will be replacing the radiator with something more suitable relatively soon in the future; I just want to nail down an intercooler so I can make sure the two of them play together nicely in the available space. There is a 2000 CFM SPAL hiding behind the radiator rather poorly mounted at the moment, which I am controlling electronically via the MS.
I also need to get a factory valve cover vacuum hose - bend is a bit tight for the hose I have that fits over the breather. I will likely cut it off after it exits the manifold area and wrap it in a separate hose that I can route to the catch can, unless anyone has any better suggestions.
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I wish I could answer this... just rolled the car back into the shop late last week. Long story short, just switched jobs (actually remotely working for an american company now, yay for getting paid in USD! Lots of hoops to jump through though, setting up a company and everything else is a pain in the ass the first time around).Originally posted by digger View Post
All I can say is that brakes feel totally fine at ~20km/h speeds moving down a 50ft hill, and seem great very functional moving the car around the property unpowered, which is pretty useless information, but does mean I didn't totally fuck up the numbers. Much easier to use than the factory boosted brakes without the booster, but definitely a little more work than the brakes with the booster (mostly because you have to hold it, the booster doesn't do all the work for you at low force levels). Pedal travel sitting still and putting a fair bit of force on them does not seem excessive, but it remains to be seen if that translates to stopping the car comfortably from speed or not.
Most of the work on the car is done at this point, I am just trying to locate a decent option for a transmission jack so I can pull the trans again and put in the pilot bearing I forgot... Otherwise there is a little finagling to do to fit the exhaust, need a couple more fittings for my fuel system adventures, dropping in the rad... then just finishing off the wiring harness, but I think that will be no more than a weekend plus an afternoon or two, most of the hard work (i.e. mapping the I/O) is done and it is hopefully just connectors at this point. This is all while making sure the lady stays happy.
I also have some more 'want to do's' to tackle, which I may or may not take a stab at before startup. This includes a rust hole in my passenger floor, probably right where the drain is.
Speaking of wiring, if anyone is interested here is my current plan of attack with the MS3 pro in terms of what I am doing with the connector signals...
Long story short plan is for single turbo, possibly water/meth injection. Those signals are reserved here. I have also made a reservation just in case I want to run twin blowers but I seriously doubt I will, I am leaning towards twin scroll with possibly a recirculating/bypass valve setup.
I am also aiming to have full 4 wheel traction control, so I am going to either replace ABS sensors with hall sensors or use a VR to hall converter to get 4 wheel VSS.
There are bosch PTS sensors on oil, coolant and fuel. If I do instrument and log brakes it will be through a separate system, as those have no relevance to engine control.
With the instrumentation and control setup below I should also be able to do launch control, we will see how that turns out.
White Connector:
Grey ConnectorMS3 Pin MS3 Function Connected To Notes 1 High current out 1 RESERVED
(Boost Control Solenoid)Control signal for boost regulation SS relay. 2 High current out 2 RESERVED
(Optional second solenoid)Unlikely - only if running TT. 3 Injector out J Oil Pressure C101 Pin 5 (Brn/grn), ground switched oil pressure light in cluster. Ground is oil pressure OK. 4 Injector out I Check Engine Light C101 Pin 12, check light. 5 High current out 3 RESERVED
(Meth/water pump output)Control for water injection pump relay. May end up unused, depending on detonation likelihood under E85. 6 CKP+ Crank Position Hall CPS also uses 5V+ VREF 1 7 Knock In 2 N/C 8 5V+ VREF out 1 Power for Some Sensors Used only for CKP and CMP sensors. 9 TPS in TPS Input TPS also needs 5V+ VREF 1 10 MAT in IAT sensor signal side 11 CLT in PTS (Clt), Temp. May need to change internal pullup from 2.49k to 4.9k. 12 Analog In 6 Launch Control Adjustment Input Used to adjust launch control setpoint. 13 Power ground Ground Block 14 PWM / Idle Out 1 IAC valve Open side of bosch IAC valve 15 CKP- N/C No connection - do NOT ground 16 Logic ground * Ground Block 17 Analog In 7 Ambient air temp Ambient air temperature sensor.
Note: May also move to pre-IC charge pipe once turbo is setup.18 Sensor return CKP and CMP Ground wire for CKP and CMP only, should help keep any hall switching noise off other sensors. 19 Analog in 1 PTS (Clt) Press. 20 Analog in 2 PTS (Oil) Temp. 4.9K pullup to 5V+ 21 Analog in 3 PTS (Oil) Press. 22 Analog In 4 PTS (Fuel) Temp.. 4.9K pullup to 5V+ 23 Analog In 5 PTS (Fuel) Press.. 24 Tach out C101 Pin 9 (black) Inst. Clust. Tachometer 25 O2 in WBC LC2 Analog #1 Wideband O2 needs to be setup 26 CMP+ Cam Position Hall CMP also uses 5V+ VREF 1 27 CMP- N/C No connection - do NOT ground 28 Fuel pump relay out Fuel Pump Relay Ground side of FPR. 29 PWM out 2 IAC valve Close side of bosch IAC valve 30 PWM out 3 RESERVED
(Meth/water valve control)High frequency control for water injection valve. May be unused. 31 Knock in 1 Knock Sensor 32 Digital switched in 1 Flex Fuel Sensor Flex fuel sensor output 33 CAN L N/C Possibly route through C101 for future IC changes. 34 CAN H N/C 35 12V+ switched power in Main relay out C101 P7 actually drives the main relay, which drives this. (Relay needs rewiring)
Black ConnectorMS3 Pin MS3 Function Connected To Purpose 1 Injector out A Cyl. 1 Injector 2 Injector out B Cyl. 5 Injector 3 Ground Ground Block 4 Injector out C Cyl. 3 Injector 5 Ground Ground Block 6 Injector out D Cyl. 6 Injector 7 Ground Ground Block 8 Injector out E Cyl. 2 Injector 9 Ground Ground Block 10 Injector out F Cyl. 4 Injector 11 Injector out G Fan Relay Control Used to control electric fan. 12 Injector out H O2 Relay Control Allows for keeping wideband on when needed, such as during idle tuning. Normally will operate with the same logic as the FPR control. 13 Spark out G N/C 14 Spark out E Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 2 15 Spark out C Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 3 16 Spark out H N/C 17 Digital frequency in 2 Unused (VR mode) 18 Ground Ground Block 19 Digital switched 12V in Main relay out 20 Digital switched in 2 RESERVED
(4W traction control)21 Digital frequency in 3 RESERVED
(4W traction control)22 Digital Frequency in 3 VR+ 23 Digital Frequency In 3 VR- 24 Spark out F Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 4 25 Spark out B Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 5 26 Spark out D Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 6 27 Spark out A Coil Pack Ign. Cyl. 1 28 Digital frequency in 1 E30 cluster speed/
wheel speed for TC* If not filtered - if so pickup directly off differential VR sensor 29 Digital switched in 3 RESERVED
(4W traction control)30 Stepper IAC out 1B 31 Stepper IAC out 1A 32 Stepper IAC out 2A 33 Stepper IAC out 2B 34 Digital Frequency in 1 VR+ 35 Digital Frequency in 1 VR-
MS3 Pin MS3 Function Connected To Purpose 1 PWM out 5 2 PWM out 4 3 Digital out 2 Traction Control Light 4 Digital out 1 Shift Light 5 Digital I/O 4 6 Digital I/O 2 Clutch Switch Clutch pedal engaged switch 7 Analog in 8 Traction Control Setting Use for analog traction control adjustment. 8 5V+ VREF out 2 9 Fuel only coil negative unused (?) 10 Digital switched in 5 11 Digital switched in 4 LC enable switch 12 Digital I/O 5 RESERVED
(Meth/water reservoir level warning switch)Fluid level warning sensor for water reservoir. May be unused. 13 Digital I/O 3 14 Digital I/O 1 15 5V+ VREF out 2 16 Fuel only battery 12V+ Fuel Pump Power Switched by FP relay. 17 Sensor return Ground for all PTS sensors, TPS and IAT CLT, Fuel, Oil and eventually brake sensors will all share this ground. 18 Sensor return Ground for Knock sensor 19 Sensor return Ground for all other engine aux. This includes E85 sensor, any other low current signal grounds. 20 Sensor return 21 Sensor return 22 5V+ VREF out 1 Used for TPS, all PTS sensors. 23 Keep alive power 12V+ Terminal Leave a comment:
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Not much of an update; stuck working on the chicken coop all weekend. I did pull the car out of the shop and roll it on down the (fairly steep and long) hill. Brakes felt great...yet to see how it is while actually driving but I now have no concern they will stop the vehicle without insane pedal force.Leave a comment:
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Bit of a late update, actually did all of the below on the weekend.
Nothing too exciting, but I did get the other MC in place. Oddly enough it took a bit of messing around, could not seem to get it so sit flush/parallel to the other MC when the pedal was pushed in without basically advancing the nut all the way to the end, whereas on the other same size MC it is ~4 threads away. Here is a photo that poorly illustrates that:
Maybe BB is a bit misaligned somehow after removing the other MC? That said I was careful when taking it out... anyway, filled it up with fluid/bled the brakes and everything seems ok. Will be rolling it down the hill later this afternoon (uncle and I are playing musical motors with his trucks this weekend, I think 3 trucks and 4 motors, some sort of swap bonanza going on. My poor e30 is once again getting booted from the bay), so hopefully they work because the next stop is the highway our driveway goes directly onto.
I also painted lots of little brackets, such as for PS reservoir. Decided to just order some SPAL ones for the fan, I actually found them after cutting those hideous things on the last post... somehow I missed them first go around ($5 each too, uhg I wish I had noticed them earlier). Oil cooler and PS cooler is mounted, lines are roughed in for PS at the moment.
My 12mm injector extensions also arrived... I had a lot of fun figuring out I actually would need ~4-6mm extensions, 12 are too large. I think I am going to have to go with plan B and fabricate some sort of bracket that will wrap around bottom of manifold mounting points and fuel rail. Here is a nice picture illustrating clearly how the nuke rail does NOT fit with 12mm extensions:
Overall, in terms of what is left before first startup...- Fix fuel rail for real (I may just tie it down for now, figure out exact bracket mechanicals later when I do a waterjet pass for all the other little bits).
- Build out my AN fuel and vacuum lines (vacuum station adapters should be here any day now). I may also shorten one power steering line.
- Mount the fan and radiator, and run the cooling hoses.
- Become a better person by suffering through the construction of my own wiring harness. I need to place a digikey order for some connectors, otherwise I should have everything I need.
- Torque main crank bolt, lots of other pre-startup checks and little tiny bits.
Finally, buddy dropped by with 30ft of free unistrut as well... gave me a good excuse to throw this together:
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Relatively minor update today, progress on weeknights can be a challenge. That said, I did get a bit of paint on some bits:
Also roughed in two fan mounting brackets. I think once I have everything up and running I am going to do a CAD pass and get brackets properly cut and bent at the local waterjet, but for now it will do.
Some bits also arrived, new fuel line fitting looks good. Also have the other 0.625" MC, so I will swap that into the brake bracket this weekend.
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Yup, 3.5" holesaw, worked like a charm. I came in from the bottom after drilling a pilot hole and measuring from the top. Only potential clearance issue is the (horn?), you can see the bolt that holds it on the side. So currently my horn is rotated a bit, not sure I really care. If it was a concern I could certainly move it further forward. If you pulled the horn you could very easily get something larger in there, I would imagine 4.5-5 inches without issue and probably bigger.Originally posted by digger View Post
I am not running ABS - at least not right now, at some point I will definitely work in a modern system. In the meantime I can easily re-purpose the wheel sensors for the MS3 traction control. Old system wasn't working anyway, and then on top of it my friendly uncle helped by completely stripping the threads into it for one of the brake lines, so I just said fuck it and pulled it out.
The coolant one was a bit of a shitshow, I could not use the holesaw because of the existing hole for the AC condenser valve or whatever it was. If I had a piece of sheet metal handy that was the right shape I probably could have mounted it over top and drilled the pilot hole then used it as a guide, but I didn't, so angle grinder it was.
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