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    Oil drain backs

    Has anyone modified the M20 block to fix the drain back from the head from landing on the rotating assembly?

    anyone got any bright ideas as to how get it to drain back straight to the pan like the modern engines?

    i thought about some small mandrel bent tubes pressed into the underside of the deck that travel down the block skirt and a receiver on the crank scraper? could probably weld to the inside of the block but dont know how well that'd work
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505


    #2
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    Has anyone modified the M20 block to fix the drain back from the head from landing on the rotating assembly?
    could it be done intentionally by design due to the lack of oil squirters, unlike in modern engines?

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      #3
      No I don’t think so. It’s still going to be chaos with oil being splashed around everywhere but the aim is so it’s a bit less
      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by digger View Post
        No I don’t think so. It’s still going to be chaos with oil being splashed around everywhere but the aim is so it’s a bit less
        I think your idea should be pretty straight forward if there is enough room to run tubes.
        If I recall correctly S52 oil pan (one of the best i6 engine designs IMHO) had drain cutout in the windage tray so the oil goes all the way to the sump

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          #5
          9/16" alloy tube 0.035" wall that is bent to clear a few things would work. not sure on the fixings though
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by digger View Post
            9/16" alloy tube 0.035" wall that is bent to clear a few things would work. not sure on the fixings though
            I would use steel tubing and tig them with a high NI rod to the block
            Last edited by zaq123; 01-18-2020, 05:17 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              my concern with welding is the porous casting has been in oil for 30 years so getting a good welding on the inside of the block is questionable
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by digger View Post
                my concern with welding is the porous casting has been in oil for 30 years so getting a good welding on the inside of the block is questionable
                if you are really set on this idea and don't mind redoing intermediate shaft bearing, hot tank it.....will get all that oil out.
                also maybe there is a possibility to arrange/weld all those down tubes to one flange and secure the flange only to the block somehow (drill/tap??)
                Last edited by zaq123; 01-18-2020, 09:37 PM.

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                  #9
                  I wouldn't mess with it. If you want to experiment with improving the design of older engines (which I highly encourage) there are better places to start on this engine. M20's can make some serious numbers (albeit, not as easily as others), so I would just leave it.

                  I've torn apart 250k mile m20's with wrist pins that still fit the pin bores and rod pin ends perfectly, so I am led the believe that the bottom end oiling system of these motors is pretty spot on IMO.
                  "Tires are our fuse" -Matt Juengel
                  1986 325e Sedan | M20B27 parts available for sale |

                  Comment


                    #10
                    leaving it is an option but its an obvious improvement BMW seem to have implemented with M50. with a big stroker crank thats going to spin up a bunch more than your average stock b25 i don't want everything being churned up unnecessarily which could hurt the engine bearings. I'll be using a scraper/windage tray & baffle but it makes sense to start more from one of the root causes where possible
                    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                    Comment

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