Advice on how best to proceed re: 325/7 Stroker

[Patto]

Gday guys.

New member. I am currently in the process of rebuilding my M20B25 for my 1990 E30 325i

I have the following purchased (listed below) with the intention of building a mild N/A engine which i may boost later when funds allow.
I and am seeking a few bits of information as to the best way to proceed from here.


Head
Bimmerheads SS885

Valves ground
Valve seat ground
New valve guides
New valve seals & cam seals
New intake studs & exhaust studs
Dual valve springs
Heavy Duty Rockers
Ported & polished
Schrick 280/274 Camshaft

Nuke Adjustable Cam Gear
ARP Head studs
MLS head gasket
Gates timing belt n pulley
New OEM water and oil pumps

Exhaust
Hartge H23 Alpina Headers
*havent done but intend to add high flow cat and 2.5" stainless exhaust
Remus rear muffler

Intake and fuelling is stock M20b25 so far.

Bottom End - 1990 325i Block
325e Crankshaft (balanced)
84.5mm Mahle 325i pistons (0.5mm overbore)
130mm forged rods
Kings race rod and main bearings.


Will this will run on a stock ECU? If not what is the most cost effective route to proceed (sssquidd reflash, standalone)?
Haltech are quite cheap here although i realize that opens another can of worms with cam timing and coils etc.

I am unsure of the best way to go on the intake and fuel side of things.

Also concerned if i have overlooked or purchased something incorrect that would stop me from proceeding.
I have well and truly gone over budget (based in Australia parts are quite expensive here) so I'm trying to avoid too much more expense at this stage at least until i get the bill from my engine builder which i imagine will be large
I'm completely new to engine builds as this is my first serious one and i may be overlooking or totally incorrect in my purchases.

Would really love to speak to someone who has done or is knowledgeable an similar B25/7 build if they can recommend anything.

Thanks for taking time to read this and i hope to hear from someone in the know :)

Regards
A. Patto

[ForcedFirebird]

You will need to shave the block to get the compression height back.

Might be better off having the head rebuilt in Aus vs shipping from the states. There are a few top notch builders over there (ie Knight Engines).

The BMW cranks are zero balanced from the factory, so unless you modified it in some way, you will save $$ there.

I have built several of that same exact combo. They tend to dyno around 170-180whp/tq and easily runs off a stock ECU, chip and injectors, but I made a custom chip for it on the dyno and it picked up about 8whp.

Here's a graph with both race cars running budget 2.7's:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/378740-forcedfirebird-s-m20-dyno-thread?p=7038352#post7038352

[Patto]

ForcedFirebird, thank for the reply.

i already have the head and everything listed above my questions re ECU.

180HP would be good fun i imagine in a car so light!

What do you recommend as far as the chip? Any chance you sell the mentioned chips?
Also what injectors did you use?


I had read something about the machining of the block. I'm sure my engine builder will be able to figure that out. From memory its a couple of MM shave required.

[ForcedFirebird]

Yes, approx 2mm to shave. You are adding 6mm stroke (3 up and 3 down), and took 5mm off the rod length. This means the b25 pistons will sit 2mm down in the block. I tend to take 1.7mm (.074") to leave room for a second rebuild.

Stock injectors are adequate. Sure, I can sell you the same chip that we use, it will be very close as we are running a 272 single pattern cam in that car (the other one has MS).

Yes, it's pretty quick. With a stock healthy rebuilt engine (160whp) terminal velocity was 134mph with a draft (a tad under 130 as a solo brick in the wind), but now with the added HP, without drafting, the car sees 147 at 7100rpm with a 4.10 and 225 40 15 tires - basically banging off the limiter at brake zone of T1 Daytona Rolex course. Even with a heavy race car (2680lb with 12 gallons of fuel and me in it, post 45 min sprint race), it goes right around e36's on the circuit. Good enough for 2:20 laps. The healthy 2.5 wouldn't get much past 6000rpm and hit the aero wall. Anyone who tells me their stock e30 does 140mph doesn't realize how bad the stock cluster is off - we use GPS data.

The 2.7 was pulled out of the race car on Sunday to get it's yearly refresh (rings/bearings/valve job), and will be going in the new car we purchased. It will be replaced with a 2.8 (84mm crank) and leaded early Gulf spec pistons (9.4:1 with a 75mm crank, 10.7:1 with 84mm). Can't wait to get that motor on the Dyno. :)

[Patto]

Interesting! sounds like ill be more than happy with my little brick lol im definitely going to ther standalone ecu route eventually (Haltech Elite 750 with flex fuel) but am keen on more info about said chip for now.
I believe my 1990 325 coupe runs the later Motronic. ut would have to check to confirm the numbers. Hasnt been touched as far as i know.
Whats the best way to contact you regarding the chip?

[Patto]

After doing a lot of reading this evening it seems the Megasquirt system is much more simple and cost effective than going through with a Haltech. Seems to be "plug and play" and would give a decent amount of tuning options.
If i were to go down that route does that system require any extra modifications and would you know if can they supply a map to run the aforementioned engine build? seems to be the go to for the majority of E30 builds....My local tuner is Haltech based but im sure he could work with TunerStudio if the system is similar. Its within my budget to purchase one now.

[ForcedFirebird]

You may have signatures turned off, but my business email is there: John@m20guru.com

Yes, if he can tune Haltech, he should be native with TS once he figures out the menus.

When purchasing a MS PnP, they will have some sort of base tune on them, and usually will start/run.

[Patto]

Excellent. Thanks for the info. I will be sure to make new thread when the car is going in the not too distant future. Purchased the Megasquirt.

[Patto]

Had a change of plans after speaking to a local enthusiast. He recommended rather than using my ETA crankshaft I should go to a m52b28 to avoid such heavy block decking. I have found a 1997 m52b28 crank for reasonable money (no luck finding the later TU version, which I've read is easier.)

Now the questions again haha
I have read that it will need a spacer and seen reference to the mm ones. Are these an order only item or can they be purchased off the shelf from anywhere? Is there anything else I'm missing with respect to parts for the build considering my previously listed components.

Purchased the ms plug n play, 6 post coil and a few other sensors too in anticipation of getting the engine back in coming weeks. Pistons have cleared customs so it's just the crankshaft that needs sorting so the ball can finally get rolling on assembly.
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated

[Patto]

Also found this schematic which I believe refers to machining said spacer. Could be wrong.

[digger]

That’s it but they don’t tell you that you need a certain nicely plunge ground 0.2 to 0.8um RA finish and heat treated to a min 45 HRC so the sleeve itself or the seal don’t get chewed out. Also a shallower lead in chamfer 2x15 is better