My shop has replaced the double oil pan gaskets with silicone twice now. This is on a rebuild of my M20b25. Is there a specific sequence to installing the gaskets and silicone? The first leak was up front and visible and they replaced the both gasket's. The newest leak 40 miles later, is in the rear and i thought it was the RMS. I want to use the scraper for hard driving up in the San Bernardino mountain road's. suggestions?
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Its not required for road driving. Remove it and dont have any more leaks.
Not trying to sound like a dick but generally crank scrappers are reserved for cars that generate alot of grip with race rubber. -
No worries. I am looking for any experienced advice. My car will see some fun track day use at HTM, Fontana and Button willow once or twice a year. It is not extreme by any means ( koni sport, M3 springs bigger sways, bushings ) and I don't have the skills to extract 10/10ths from it but wouldn't it be good insurance for a heathy motor even up in the hills?Comment
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Ditch the gaskets and use a good quality goop. Do your research though as any old stuff isn’t going to cut it. I’ll see if can find the loctite stuff that’s made for this kind of application I looked at it a while ago89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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it was like loctite 518, 515 or 510 cant remember. need to be careful about if you use an activator or not (newer version dont require a seperate activator IIRC) due to the alloy sump and chemical compatbility. I rmember seeing versions with the primer /activator in the prodcut but its a fairly new product so need to look out for non old stock.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/...ctite_518.html
ive not used it yet but thats what i came up with when im going to do mine. There are other companies that make stuff but devil is in the details.
page 15 has some details for the different products and then silicone sealants which are for bigger gaps, more flexibility, higher temp resistance. 587 would work to
Last edited by digger; 10-15-2020, 01:55 PM.89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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The m20 on track with 200 wear tires and overfilling a bit on oil is pretty solid. Low instances of running it dry.
Take that info for what its worth.Comment
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The crank scrapers job is not only to stop oil going up the block.....89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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I have lost two motors in long endurance races because of low oil combined with long right sweepers ("low" as in stock level, we always run a qt over). Scrapers and/or baffle are worth it in an m20, specially if you are driving the limit of modern "200tw" tires. We are doing Spec e30 lap times in our car on 225/50 Rival.
That being said, I have installed and R&R'd scrapers countless times. They way I get them to seal is use Permatex "The Right Stuff" or similar (Hondabond etc, any elastomeric, not generic RTV) and apply a light bead on the block, spread it evenly, then bolt the scraper to the block and let it dry if you have time. Then the scraper becomes an "extension" of the block since it's glued there. Then use whatever your favorite oil pan seal is, but I tend to use the same goop on that as well.Comment
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Thats the ticket Forcedfirebird, Thank you.
Forcedfirebird and Digger, your both so helpful and keep the M20 section going with your input.
My shop may have already re did the gasket, I passed on the info over the week end. I will report back on what they did and how it holds up.
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