Cranks but no start please help !

[Djerman86]

I’m lost. Tons of new parts and car turns over and won’t start. If I give it any gas it surged idle and just bounces. Just did a smoke test and fixed the only leak. New afm, distributer. Wires plugs. Fuel pumps and filters. Head gasket. Intake gasket. Icv. Any input would be so great. This car ran for2 days after I got it and Iv been throwing parts at it with no luck at all.

[Djerman86]

Yes gets me no where every time. It should be running

[Jaxx_]

do you have fuel? The classic issue is the C191 (circular connector to fuel rail under the intake manifold) that causes injector connection issues. If no fuel, try starting it with starting fluid.

If you don't have spark, inspect CPS and ignition components.

[tomstin]

What year and model? The "e" engines have 2 crank position sensors on the bell housing that connect above the intake, easy enough to reverse them. The "i" motors have one on the front of the engine, easy enough to miss. They are critical to the engine running. Which ever you have, check those first.

Are the fuel pumps running? You can jump the relay and check fuel pressure.

As Jaxx mentions, do you have spark to the plugs?

Check all the fuses...again.

[Djerman86]

I have fuel. Both pumps are new. I believe I have a i motor. The block is a e I believe. It’s a 2.7 stroker. I thought I did swap them and tried that and they are correct. Honestly everything seems correct. Everything is torqued down. Even checked the head for warping when I did the gasket and it was off but fractions of a mil

[tomstin]

Let's start from the beginning, you mention "This car ran for2 days after I got it " So the car is new to you...correct?

Did it run well, what happened before it started acting up?

Just because you replaced the pumps doesn't mean you have fuel pressure. Don't guess, you have to verify. Us old guys will remember the phrase "trust but verify"

As mentioned earlier, check for spark. Pull a plug wire and or plug and check.

Now I get concerned "I believe I have a i motor. The block is a e I believe. It’s a 2.7 stroker." As I understand, most of the stroker conversions use the "E" block, with an "I" top end and "I" electronics. You are a bit out of my league with this but, as I understand, the "E" electronics will have the crank position sensor and speed sensors on the bell housing. The "I" electronics have the crank position sensor on the front of the crank with a toothed wheel. You need to CONFIRM which you have.

As mentioned above the "I" electronics are notorious for corrosion on the round plug under the intake.

Hang in there, you will get this sorted!

[Djerman86]

Yes cars new to me. New to bmw in general. Was told it was a e block converted to I block. The cps is on the top of the wheel.

[ADEN]

Tomstin gave you what you need to check. I add to check plugs if they spark and wether they are foulded with fuel and check if injectors spray if all ok go and swap CPS and check timing may have jumped a tooth since car was running ok.
Wish you luck

[Djerman86]

Thanks guys. Ya Iv checked basically everything that was mentioned. Gets fuel. Gets spark. All new checked timing all set.

[efficient]

what dme you got?
and what AFM are you running? e and i AFM are not the same.
i had that problem i was running a e AFM thinking it was the same. i swapped my friends I AFM and car ran smooth.

[tomstin]

Another thought, there was a post sometime ago where the rotor was put on wrong, pretty hard to do, but he did it. Make sure it is slotted correctly. Had spark but at the wrong time.

It's hard to check your own work. Assume nothing, verify everything. And as effcient said, check the DME and AFM, you have a bit of a hybrid here, you need all "i" electronic or "e" not a mix of both.

[moatilliatta]

What’s the fuel pressure at?

New relays?

Check fusible link in trunk?