Sad news, the rear piece does not seem to be helping.

So I went and got the piece this morning. Pulled the motor, installed it and put everything back together. I didn't get to run the car enough to heat cycle it more than twice, so I can't say I'm fully satisfied that the system is bled properly.
Although I'm hoping it comes down to the bleeding, it still seems too optimistic to just blame it on that as the car's cooling behavior remains pretty unchanged.
I'm thinking at looking at options for the most powerful pusher fan mankind has ever created that'll fit inside the radiator support of the e30. /rant
I spoke to zacm829 over the phone today, who also had an M30b34.5 swap, and his setup (now w/ the b34 coolant pipe in the back) is damn near identical.
Guess at this point it's still all speculation until I can do a proper bleed (if it's possible to do it even better than what it is now).
By the way, I tested the Sunpro mechanical gauge and it's pretty spot on with the temperatures. Using both a second gauge and a optical thermometer (the one that you point towards the surfaces of the T-stat housing or radiator), all temperatures were within +/- 2deg of each other. So I am pretty certain that I can say that my water/antifreeze starts boiling at about 200deg (if that's any indication of a hint)
I'll try to organize this post better later on... I feel like I just rambled way too much.

So I went and got the piece this morning. Pulled the motor, installed it and put everything back together. I didn't get to run the car enough to heat cycle it more than twice, so I can't say I'm fully satisfied that the system is bled properly.
Although I'm hoping it comes down to the bleeding, it still seems too optimistic to just blame it on that as the car's cooling behavior remains pretty unchanged.
I'm thinking at looking at options for the most powerful pusher fan mankind has ever created that'll fit inside the radiator support of the e30. /rant
I spoke to zacm829 over the phone today, who also had an M30b34.5 swap, and his setup (now w/ the b34 coolant pipe in the back) is damn near identical.
Guess at this point it's still all speculation until I can do a proper bleed (if it's possible to do it even better than what it is now).
By the way, I tested the Sunpro mechanical gauge and it's pretty spot on with the temperatures. Using both a second gauge and a optical thermometer (the one that you point towards the surfaces of the T-stat housing or radiator), all temperatures were within +/- 2deg of each other. So I am pretty certain that I can say that my water/antifreeze starts boiling at about 200deg (if that's any indication of a hint)
I'll try to organize this post better later on... I feel like I just rambled way too much.
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