The OFFICIAL let's make Erick's M30 stop overheating thread
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Valid point... what could cause that to happen?Erick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :DComment
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Radiator cap, for one, slow leak in a hose, ANY little leak to atmosphere in the coolant system will not let it build enough pressure. It takes 13-16psi in the system for water to NOT boil up to about 200*Comment
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The leak on the hose has got to be beyond minimal.... enough that the motor being warm itself can burn up the water before it leaks. The car can sit on for half an hour without leaving a single drop.
Your pressure tester can find this leak?
- EErick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :DComment
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Radiator cap is brand new. Considering the old radiator cap didn't change the issue, I'm assuming that's clean.
The leak on the hose has got to be beyond minimal.... enough that the motor being warm itself can burn up the water before it leaks. The car can sit on for half an hour without leaving a single drop.
Your pressure tester can find this leak?
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The pressure tester set to about 20psi will usually show you where the leak is and NOT blow your hoses up.
Did you use all new hoses etc when you did the swap, or is it JY stuff?
Dammit, Erick, we could have a much faster conversation of you call haha.Comment
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Alright, so I finally had the opportunity to meet up with John tonight (ForcedFirebird). I'm sure he'll post up his findings but basically we found nothing conclusive with the pressure test.
We pumped 14psi in the coolant system and it had a very slow leak. Took about half an hour to get down to 10psi, and an hour and a half after that it was holding 6psi. John says that it's really not significant enough to cause the car to behave as it does.
While the coolant system was pressurized, I took the valve cover off and checked the torque of the head studs. Made sure everything was tight at 90ft/lbs after driving about 60 miles. All is good there.
Driving back home, it still drives very much the same way. John went for a ride and the car just keeps warming up as it sits at idle.
So..... any thoughts/suggestions? I honestly don't know where to look anymore. I'm considering trying a fan shroud to help cooling, but thats really not fixing the problem, just trying to help improve cooling enough so that the problem is not as persistent.
But until I can find a way to keep the car running at a set temperature, and have a cooling system that can cool the car down to such temperature after making a drifting run, this car is really of no use to me. :(
Besides a fan shroud... any other ideas?
- EErick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :DComment
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The radiator should be sufficient since it is the radiator, after all, that comes with the motor, just in a different car.
Erick, remember, I didn't have the cap tightened all the way the first test, but the second test held more than enough. Took quite a while for it to bleed down to 10psi, pretty much the same I see on any car.
What do you think about maybe using a narrow flex fan from another car, or maybe a slim generic one and drilling it to the water pump pattern?Comment
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I may be mistaken as I read this whole thread and it all kinda got jumbled together but I'll just throw this out there...
My e28, 535i with the B34 was exhibiting similar symptoms. Boiling coolant, etc, but the gauge wasn't leaving the blue (stock gauge on cluster). After dicking around with T-stats and rad caps for a while I took all the hoses off, flushed them and inspected all the junctions, etc. I noticed that inside the little nipple on top of the radiator that connects the overflow hose to the overflow tank there was some debris. I removed the debris with a paperclip and voila, no more boiling!
As far as my temp gauge, I'm thinking it gave up on me. The coolant would boil before the gauge even hit 11 o'clock. Haven't really driven the car since I got the boiling taken care of so haven't worried about it.
Also, I've been running straight water too (leaky freeze plug so I don't wanna lose all the coolant and have to keep buying it 'till I fix it), so my theory is that possibly some corrosion from running straight water (distilled), or just the fact my overflow tank was full of shit, could have come loose and made it's way to that nipple, eventually closing it off. Then the coolant will not circulate properly. Check that nipple.
I'm going to do a full flush hardcore on the car after I replace the freeze plug. Also, wouldn't a leaky freeze plug cause a loss in pressure possibly? It is a leak to the atmosphere....
Like I said, just throwing that out there. I read this thread 2x but it all got kinda jumbled together.
Good luck!1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5Comment
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Much appreciated for the help. I shall report back later with my findings.
- EErick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :DComment
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Last edited by wildstoats; 08-28-2010, 08:24 AM.Comment
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Good info. I suppose that might be it, although doing the mye28 sticky cooling bleed, I'd assume that the top overflow hose is fine, but I will check it anyways.
For me it wasn't the hose itself. It was inside the little nipple that's on top of the rad. Get a light and peer down that hole. It doesn't take much to plug that up.
Sorry if I got a little long winded earlier!:oops:1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5Comment
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Its all good boss. No worries with the long explanations. Trust me when I say that at this point, i'm reading all suggestions carefully :p
I will still take a look, although on a new radiator, it's kinda tough to believe it's clogged. I should be able to take a look tomm.Erick Mahle | FullOpp Drift | YouTube
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Originally posted by Mr. Anderson...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :DComment
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