M30b35 swap into 1990 vert *NOW WITH LIFE!!*
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I can't even get the engine further back. It's as far back as I can get it now. I'm using garagistic arms and G-Man visionary poly mountsLeave a comment:
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Nice work.
You have plenty of room at the back of the head with your clearancing - I only have about 1/8th of an inch back there. You could shift the engine back quite a bit further than it is at the moment.
If you did make the most of the room back there, you could probably fit a slim clutch fan by the look of it (the next sticking point would be the sump bowl on the subframe).Leave a comment:
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Progress.
Dropped in fairly smoothly. You need a engine leveler for this.
Tranny bracket not attached.
Sitting kind of high??
Once tranny brace is on will it lower down that 1"?


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I need to score an engine hoist (renting one here is $$$$) I'm putting a call out on my facebook for any potential lenders.
aside from that it's just drop it, button it up and plug everything back into place....which will be fun because all I labeled was the fuel in/fuel out lines.
GO RYAN!Leave a comment:
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Big springtime bump!
Cleaned up and installed my getrag 260 m30 transmission with all new hardware.


Picked up some goodies over winter
Spal e-fan

Behr e28 radiator (brand new ebay $89 whoop)

Got my driveshaft mated to a e28 5 er front shaft. Balanced, new csb and painted. New guibo too.

Now to throw it all in the car!Leave a comment:
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Fuel leak found
Not a line strangely.
Previous owner used some ghetto caulking instead of a proper gasket at the fuel level sender...and when tank is full, fuel seeps out when the car leans to the drivers side.
Easy fix with the proper gasket I need to find.

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I think load leveler is the way to go especially if I'm dropping in solo.
1euro my bad I misunderstood and thought you were also chasing a fuel leakLeave a comment:
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My engine and transmission flew in. I originally purchased a load leveller from ebay but it was a cheap one that is more designed for a 4cyl, if you biased the chains for the angle required to get it in then the front did not have enough adjustement on the tilt to get it back on the mounts. Should be ok with a more expensive/longer balance bar. My solution was rear of engine held on the hook and chain on the crane, front of engine on a block and tackle attached parallel to the front lifting eye. I just wrapped a load strap round the crane and hooked the block and takle onto load strap.
Had 2 failed attempts on the balance bar, much scratching of head, then came up with the new method and I was on the mounts within 10minutes of setting up. Had so much control over it and was no effort against winding the balance bar.Leave a comment:

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