Question about engine/tranny mounts w/ m30

[lukeADE335i]

And that's another giubo gone.

This time, however, the bolts for the motor mount on the pass side sheared, so I don't know what to blame.

To play it safe, I am going to be replacing it with a lemforder giubo, an oem centering sleeve for the driveshaft, and I'm going to try my luck with jaguar mounts as suggested above.

When I swapped mine I used a Lemforder guibo and replaced the centring sleeve - no issues for more than 3.5 years now.

Given the engine mount sheared, are you sure the engine & driveline are sitting square would be my next question? Were the engine mounts cheapies or OEM? Regardless, the Jaguar mounts should do the job.

I'm on the venerable e30.de mounts - perfect fit & have had no issues with OEM M20 rubber engine mounts & poly trans mounts. In future I'll probably go with e21 rubber trans mounts with UUC enforcer cups to improve the NVH further seeing as I daily drive my car.

[Bearmw]

I run GoodnTight B35 mounts with Revshift m20 mounts and use e21 trans mounts and have the big guibo. It may be Lemforder. I am pretty sure I didn't skimp on such an important part. I was having some driveline vibrations that I thought at first might have been related to my driveline angle. I readjusted all parts and then realized my driveshaft joints were sticking. A rebuilt shaft fixed that. It seems pretty bullet proof now.

[Andy.B]

Just to recap, I have an m30b34, bolted to a G265.
qbang engine mounts on stock m20 rubber bushings at the engine.
e30 m3 transmission cross brace on revshift m3 poly trans mounts in the rear.
The driveshaft was shortened and rebuilt by driveline specialists, so there shouldn't be any issues regarding the u-joints.

The first guibo that self destructed I attributed to using the 535i rubber trans mounts.
The second guibo that self destructed I attributed to the part being an aftermarket replacement that was manufactured wrong.
The third guibo that failed I am attributing (at least in part) to the engine mount bolts shearing off, allowing the engine to lean/lower too far, and probably wander quite a bit during acceleration.

I am going to carefully measure the alignment angle between the trans output shaft and the driveshaft flange when installing the new guibo.

If the front of the engine is too high (which I suspect might be the case), I will swap out the rubber m20 mounts to the thinner jaguar mounts, and space them back up with washers as needed to obtain a perfect alignment. I can't raise to tail end of the transmission to correct the angle, as there is only a hair of space between the guibo and the shift linkage as it sits. If I try to raise it any higher, it will foul out.

I would try to reach out to qbang to find out if I am using his recommended combination of parts, but he hasn't been on r3v in over a year the last I checked.

If anybody else has qbang mounts, I would love to hear about your experience.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I gor qbang mounts. Once i can start driving the car ill know what im dealing with. Right now im using rubber mounts aswell for tranny but revshift polly motor mounts.

[Andy.B]

I received jaguar rubber engine mounts and a new oe/lemforder giubo from Blunt, and installed them today.

Up front, the engine mounts are about 8 mm shorter than the m20 parts. I also removed the stamped pieces that the heat shields would attach to, if the heat shields were still there. Combined, it brought the front of the engine down around 10 or 11 millimeters.

My theory was correct about the aftermarket guibo's being manufactured wrong. The arrows on the cheapo aftermarket guibo are opposite from where they are on the oe lemforder guibo.

I am nervous that I still haven't cracked the case on this, but I guess only time will tell. If this keeps up, I will probably end up going back to an m20 engine, or just selling the whole car. It shouldn't be this hard to get more than 3k miles out of a driveshaft guibo .

[Mr. Burns]

I received jaguar rubber engine mounts and a new oe/lemforder giubo from Blunt, and installed them today.

Up front, the engine mounts are about 8 mm shorter than the m20 parts. I also removed the stamped pieces that the heat shields would attach to, if the heat shields were still there. Combined, it brought the front of the engine down around 10 or 11 millimeters.

My theory was correct about the aftermarket guibo's being manufactured wrong. The arrows on the cheapo aftermarket guibo are opposite from where they are on the oe lemforder guibo.

I am nervous that I still haven't cracked the case on this, but I guess only time will tell. If this keeps up, I will probably end up going back to an m20 engine, or just selling the whole car. It shouldn't be this hard to get more than 3k miles out of a driveshaft guibo .

can you describe the symptoms of when you begin to feel the guibo shredding itself apart?

I'm curious to know whether this is happening with my E30 now, as I do tend to get some driveline hiccups at certain point when I tromp on the throttle

[Andy.B]

Accelerating in 1st and 2nd. The harder the acceleration, the harsher the vibration.

[TimeMachinE30]

Any documentation on the genuine E30 M30's marketed to the South African market? Would be nice to see the BMW methodology of mounts and particulars.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/333i

[uturn]

You can find the Alpina parts catalog on e30.de

[lukeADE335i]

The 333i used Position 1 with the custom Alpina radiator that fits in the nose of the e30, so not much use really, especially when mounting an M30B35, which has a different block.

The e30.de mounts are basically knockoffs of the Alpina mounts for either the M30B34 or M30B35. There are pictures of their mounts side by side with the Alpina mounts on their site somewhere & positioning of the engine & dimensions are exactly the same.

To give you a sense of where the engine sits on mine - if I climb under the car, I can barely fit the end of a finger between the sump and the crossmember - the gap would be only about 5 - 8mm.

[wannaBMthree]

Any documentation on the genuine E30 M30's marketed to the South African market? Would be nice to see the BMW methodology of mounts and particulars.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/333i

"It is fairly discreet and handily sized and in many ways, it is the epitome of what BMW stands for."

Or used to stand for in this case. :)

[TimeMachinE30]

It appears that E34 M30 motor bushings used upside down satisfied the needs for the 333i.

[Doughnut]

If you have an issue where your guibo has an open gap at the bottom you should try spacing the transmission up with body washers (in between the transmission crossmember and rubber mount) to get the angle more square.

I fabricated my own engine mounts and never had an issue with shredding guibos.

Just a suggestion.

[Andy.B]

Just posting an update...
It's been about 4 months so far, with no sign of the dreaded drivetrain vibrations returning. Hopefully, the issues has been resolved. I'll check in again in a few months if all goes well, or sooner if the giubo falls apart again.

[TimeMachinE30]

[The mounts used in the Alpina built 333i) have been replaced with a BMW rubber mount, P/N 11 81 1 132 321.

Cross references to E21, E30 and E12.

I ordered these via ECS. Very tall. Worried they may not work right with the garagistic mounts. We shall see.. they are E30 specific and listed only as a Euro market item for all chassis and transmissions.