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M30 Swap : Which Motor Bushings?

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    M30 Swap : Which Motor Bushings?

    I've been told the 333i used inverted E34 M30 mounts. Anyone go that OEM+ route? Do I go poly? Do I use my existing M20 OEM rubbers?

    Please LMK. Not racecar. Looking for smooth, cruiser.
    ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

    #2
    Contact this guy with a 1984 Alpina 333i.

    Projects Hartge,Alpina & AC Schnitzer Builds.http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=280601
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227993
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=289362

    DSC04926 by Raul Salinas, on FlickrDSC03413 by Raul Salinas, on Flickr

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      #3
      Quality e30 rubber mounts work fine for a stock M30B35.
      My e30: OEM+ with M30B35

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        #4
        A guy on here said he used stock 80s V6 Jaguar mounts and he said they are a little shorter than the stock ones and a tougher rubber. I may go this route.

        I have AKG M20 poly mounts (bolt through design, basically a solid mount) and they are pretty bad. A lot of vibration especially when the car is cold. I would like to go rubber but I worry that stock M20 mounts will make the motor hit the hood since I had to shorten my poly mounts to keep the clearance between motor and hood. I have heard stock M20 mounts tear under M30 torque but I think a fair amount of people run them. I have the Otis mounts so clearances may be different with different mounts.

        Alternatively Revshift makes a poly mount that is not bolt through. Each stud is embedded into the poly to help isolate vibrations. I got a guibo from them once and it was garbage so I am not sure if their mounts would be any better.
        Are Three Vee



        Dad Spec

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          #5
          I appreciate it. ^

          Need a roll call of M30 swaps, mount design and position, bushing and satisfaction with the combination.

          I'll run M20s I think for the time. .. and I got a while before I get the motor in.
          ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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            #6
            I used m20 mounts and they've worked fine for like 7 years.
            Originally posted by LJ851
            I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?

            Feedback

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              #7
              M30b34+g265
              Q-bang engine mount arms
              80's jag rubber mounts
              E30m3 transmission cross member
              Poly e30m3 transmission mounts

              I ran m20 rubber mounts at first, and while the engine vibration was sufficiently dampened, and the whole assembly well supported, there was too much of a drive line angle causing it to chew up driveshaft giubo's. The jaguar mounts made no noticeable difference in nvh, but lowered the engine about a half an inch.

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                #8
                I highly recommend the 80A urethane engine mounts from G-Man The Visionary. They provide better mass control under hard braking/cornering but don't transmit any more NVH than stock m20 rubber mounts.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
                  I highly recommend the 80A urethane engine mounts from G-Man The Visionary. They provide better mass control under hard braking/cornering but don't transmit any more NVH than stock m20 rubber mounts.
                  I am in touch with him.. well was, once. He did not respond about having any more in stock.
                  ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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                    #10
                    I've got Garagistic engine arms with condor delrin bushings for both the engine and trans. I would like the engine to sit a little further back, but whatever. I got the delrin mounts versus OEM style rubber or polly so that my engine can't move at all and crush my radiator (I only have about 3-4 mm of clearance).

                    The solid bushings transfer ALL of the engine vibration to the frame and you can really feel the car vibrate when driving. It also sorta feels like the car is crashing through bumps in the road rather than going over them, but that could also be the H&R Race springs. I'm not sure how long my stock front subframe will last, but I sorta like how powerful and brutish the car feels when driving.
                    sigpic
                    1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                    1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
                    1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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                      #11
                      Delrin is fucking brutal, I wouldn't go near it with a 10-foot pole.

                      Good urethane shouldn't flex much more than delrin in a low frequency/high magnitude situation (like the engine shifting around under hard driving), but will be much better at absorbing high frequency/low amplitude vibrations that cause NVH.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by chadthestampede View Post
                        I used m20 mounts and they've worked fine for like 7 years.
                        I used new m20 mounts, and they only last about 5 years before they start to sag on the exhaust side.
                        Originally posted by Matt-B
                        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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