m30 motor too far forward with Garagistic mounts

[jdance30]

Their excuse was that my subframe is likely cracked and sagging and that’s what’s causing all the weird fitment

If this was the case, there would not be a thread with 5+ people with the same issue. There is no excuse when an entire batch has the same issues. Making excuses is a clear disregard of customer satisfaction in order to avoid having to give refunds or replacements.

Also, send them the link to this thread. That may help us all.

[Stvstr]

They are aware of this thread, they contacted me shortly after I posted it and asked for details of my motor positioning. I haven't heard anything from them since.

[grinchxvx]

If this was the case, there would not be a thread with 5+ people with the same issue. There is no excuse when an entire batch has the same issues. Making excuses is a clear disregard of customer satisfaction in order to avoid having to give refunds or replacements.

Also, send them the link to this thread. That may help us all.

I did mention this thread, they tried to say the way they’re made it’s not possible to have any differences in production and they’ve sold 100’s and never had any issues like this. I really think it was a bad batch though from when people bought them around Christmas last year to spring this year


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[LowR3V'in]

send them back for inspection.
put a secret stamp on it and when they say nothing is wrong see if they sent you a different pair or the same ones.

[Stvstr]

On a completely different note, I have been driving the m30 e30 for a while and the temp gauge always stays midway in the blue zone. If I let it idle it will creep to the top of the blue. I have a new 176 degree thermostat and an e28 535 rad. Anyone else seeing lower than expected engine temps?

[Bearmw]

I am also running an 176 tstat but the needle is usually a tick above 1/4 and can go as high as just over 1/2 before the fan kicks on.

[george graves]

Am I the only one that thinks "slotting" a motor mount is a bad idea. Motor mount arms are NOT there as a shelf just to hold the motor up!

When accelerating or (more importantly) braking, you can get about a G or more of force on it. 400 pounds, 1 g of force, and a slotted bracket. I don't care how hard to TQ that nut - it's prime time to slides-ville.

[Bearmw]

I agree with George that slotting isn't a great solution.

[jdance30]

Am I the only one that thinks "slotting" a motor mount is a bad idea. Motor mount arms are NOT there as a shelf just to hold the motor up!

When accelerating or (more importantly) braking, you can get about a G or more of force on it. 400 pounds, 1 g of force, and a slotted bracket. I don't care how hard to TQ that nut - it's prime time to slides-ville.

Agreed. I initially slotted mine to allow me to adjust the motor where it needed to be while in the engine bay then marked where I needed the new hole and had the slot filled via welding and redrilled the new hole.

Also, I believe I got the first of the batch in July of last year as it took months for the new batch to arrive. They told me on the phone they were taking a long time due to a redesign in the batch of mounts that I ordered from.

[george graves]

Just to make sure about the angle - if your trans isn't in the right position, obviously that will affect the angle. I know that's a total "DUH" thing - but I've made mistakes like that.

[grinchxvx]

Just got the engine all In and buttoned down with the mounts from good and tight and everything fits great, no more issues at all. I had a hell of a time getting the right side mount into the furthest back position though. What I ended up doing to get it was bolting the arm to the rubber mount loosely and then putting the 3 17mm bolts into the mount and engine once everything was lined up.

It sucks the garagistic mounts didn’t work out because they seem like a good company. When I returned my mounts they gave me a full refund and offered to give me even more than I paid in store credit but I turned it down. I’ll be emailing them to let them know it was definitely a mount issue and not my car.




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[canyoncarver]

so,.....with all the concerns that everyones having re: garagistic mounts,...
has anyone had any success mounting their m30 using the garagistic mounts ?
got a set a couple years back that will be used for the soon to be m30 e30 swap in my kids 325.........wondering who if anyone has had good luck..or is slotting the mounting points a requirement for proper set back ?

[glnr13]

Bought my garagistic mounts early 2014, no slotting. Behr e28 535i radiator sits 5mm from distributor.

[rickyslickuhs]

I know I’m digging up bones here but I found this thread looking for M30 motor mounts for my E30.

There are several different versions of the M30 block and not all mounts go in the same place. You can actually see two sets of bolt holes in the picture, on each side. One set forward and one behind. Depending on which you use, you’ll either have to bash in the firewall or cut the core support. I’m cutting the core support so that I can mount a larger radiator in front of it and not have to worry about the space.

I don’t know if I would ever “kerf” and engine mount and trust it…

Im also assuming everyone changed their oil pickup and got the front sump oil pan. The oil issue is due to a gearing problem for the oil pump. The engines needed to rev to have adequate oil pressure. BMW was having a ton of issues because motors were locking up, so on updated versions of the M30, instead of having a gear driving the pump, the gear is smaller and there’s a tensioner on the chain which speeds up the oil pump so it can keep up even at low revs.

Just wanted to clear some things up in case it helps someone in the future.

[lukeADE335i]

Which mounts are you intending to use and which M30? Most of the mounts available have two holes in them to either mount in ‘Position 2’ or ‘Position 3’. Reality is Position 3 (the furtherest back) doesn’t really require much bashing of the firewall if you’re running an M30B35 as it doesn’t have the heater fitting at the back of the head - it’s just that a lot of people get a bit carried away with it. There is a spot where the casting for the starter touches on the tunnel that needs a bit of a hit, and a small amount at the back of the head. At the back of the head all I needed was around 1/4 inch & my car is RHD so there is a brake linkage across the cabin which means you can’t get carried away as you’ll fowl the linkage. Personally I’d always run in Position 3 to avoid needing a custom radiator and bonnet pins as you’ll lose your locking mechanism unless you have some custom option for that? Much easier to just run a stock e28 radiator that bolts straight in. The easiest engine to fit is the e34 M30B35 as it is already front sump etc & it’s Motronic 1.3 so you can just modify a 320i / 325i loom and put the 535i chip in your existing DME or use the ‘179’ M30 DME.

I used e30.de mounts for mine (which you may be able to still get if you speak nicely to Tino at 300mm.de although they’re not listed on the site), but there’s a few options now. The e30 goodies ones look good, although I don’t know anyone that has used them to check how well they fit.

https://e30goodies.com/product/m30-engine-mounts-e30/