Considering M30 swap

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  • kronus
    replied
    Will give a ring. In a month or so :P

    Anyway, if I get e32 headers/downpipes, will they mate to an i exhaust without too much drama? Trying to save a buck wherever I can is :(, but is what needs to happen. This is a DD, after all.

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    New Headgasket maybe? Give me a ring when you dive into it, I'm only like 15 mins down the road.

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  • kronus
    replied
    Looks like I will be putting in an order for a whole bunch of seals and gaskets to Pelican sometime in the next month.

    Hmm... I might as well get a new clutch while I'm at it, right?

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  • BenM
    replied
    Originally posted by Funkmasta
    And always do the dist cap and rotor before you put the motor in!
    Good call! forgot those two....

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus
    Yep, got a new set lying around. (as far as I know, M20 and M30 cap/rotor are the same)
    True

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  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by Funkmasta
    And always do the dist cap and rotor before you put the motor in!
    Yep, got a new set lying around. (as far as I know, M20 and M30 cap/rotor are the same)

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus
    The mounts I got are e30.de Type I mounts, which are for the B34.

    I am aware of the B35 pan and pump being necessary. However, the way I heard it, I will need the pan from an E34, no exceptions. Can I use the E32 pan?
    E32/E34 535/735/M5 all have pans that you can use.

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by BenM
    Not to get you down, but did you get the mounts for the B34 (Gen II) Motor, since it sounds like you are using that. The B34 block has the bosses for one of the motor mount arms (drivers or passengers side, I can't recall) in a different position than the B35. Also, in addition to the proper motor mount arms, you also need the B35 Oil Pump & Oil pan, since the B34 items will not properly clear the E30 subframe.

    Another point is that you cannot use the B35 flywheel since the B34 has specific teeth in it for the Reference sensors with the Motronic 1.0 Electronics, like that in your ETA.

    While the motor is out, you should do the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, thermostat & waterpump. This is good preventative maintenance. The M30 is robust enough that I wouldn't worry about the Timing Chain failing.

    Another thing to check while the valve cover is off is the bolts holding the oil sprayer bar. They tend to come loose, and you should replace them and add some locktite for good measure.

    Another tidbit, is E28 radiators can be had for around $200 new right now, so that may be another way to go and ensure a fresh cooling system, along with the pre-mentioned thermostat & waterpump.

    HTH.
    And always do the dist cap and rotor before you put the motor in!

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  • kronus
    replied
    The mounts I got are e30.de Type I mounts, which are for the B34.

    I am aware of the B35 pan and pump being necessary. However, the way I heard it, I will need the pan from an E34, no exceptions. Can I use the E32 pan?

    Leave a comment:


  • BenM
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus

    Engine mounts are paid for and on their way :D
    Not to get you down, but did you get the mounts for the B34 (Gen II) Motor, since it sounds like you are using that. The B34 block has the bosses for one of the motor mount arms (drivers or passengers side, I can't recall) in a different position than the B35. Also, in addition to the proper motor mount arms, you also need the B35 Oil Pump & Oil pan, since the B34 items will not properly clear the E30 subframe.

    Another point is that you cannot use the B35 flywheel since the B34 has specific teeth in it for the Reference sensors with the Motronic 1.0 Electronics, like that in your ETA.

    While the motor is out, you should do the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, thermostat & waterpump. This is good preventative maintenance. The M30 is robust enough that I wouldn't worry about the Timing Chain failing.

    Another thing to check while the valve cover is off is the bolts holding the oil sprayer bar. They tend to come loose, and you should replace them and add some locktite for good measure.

    Another tidbit, is E28 radiators can be had for around $200 new right now, so that may be another way to go and ensure a fresh cooling system, along with the pre-mentioned thermostat & waterpump.

    HTH.

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    Awesome. <3 you guys.

    I guess a first step would be to find someone with a truck... I somehow don't see transporting an M30 in my backseat being too simple to take in/out.

    Farbin, do you have an engine stand and a cherry picker?

    Engine mounts are paid for and on their way :D

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    ^^^im down too.

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  • accident
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus
    RealOEM does not seem to have a e28 section :(
    Click 'Archive'

    Also: if you need someone to help turn a wrench I am so in.

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  • Farbin Kaiber
    replied
    It's all yours, as I've said during many of our late night rendezvous.

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  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by Farbin Kaiber
    maybe we can put that into my shell.
    Meh, screw PM'ing you :P

    If you're serious, I want your trans and your driveshaft.

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