Reseal G240 transmission and replace clutch

[jsnppp]

Hi,

Dove into the next phase of the project, reseal transmission, change engine output seal, rebuild shifter and inspect/replace clutch. Couple of question.

Q1 - I have a dual mass flywheel, correct? 99% sure but wanted to check.






Q2: Clutch looks ok, but not great. Agreed? Drives fine, doesn't shudder or make noises. "While I'm in there". I'll likely go with this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-e36-k70010-01







Q: Am I missing anything?

Here are the parts I will use (future reference):

• Trans Input Shaft Seal (30x42x7) - PN: 23111228314
• Trans Output Shaft Seal (40x55x8) - PN: 23121205342
• Trans Shifter Shaft Seal (15x21x5) - PN: 23128677736
• Engine rear main seal - PN: 11142249533
• Transmission output shaft lock plate: PN: 23211490120
• Trans to engine bolts:
  • (2) PN: 23001222891
  • (3) PN: 23001222893
  • (2) PN: 23001222887
• Exhaust manifold gasket - PN: 18301711969
• Selector rod joint - PN: 25117503525
• (8) Flywheel bolts - PN: 11222243051
• + various other shifter parts.

~Jason

[roguetoaster]

Yes, it's a dual mass flywheel. Why replace the main seal if it's not leaking? There is a point at which one starts to replace not broken stuff with new stuff and doing so only creates issues.

You technically are supposed to replace the transmission mount bolts, but don't really need to. However, don't forget new pressure plate and flywheel bolts.

Don't forget the rear mount for the shifter if it's still available.

[jsnppp]

Good call on the flywheel bolts. I'll get new.

I forgot to add that I will be replacing the front shifter carrier bushings with these from garagistic https://www.garagistic.com/collectio...hifter-bushing

In addition to all shifter related parts..

Regarding the rear main seal. I don't disagree that sometimes it's easy to replace things unnecessarily. Rear main seal is not 100% dry and I really don't want to go in here again if I don't have to. The transmission is leaking from both ends..

We are only a couple thousand miles into this car and it's due...

The clutch comes with new pressure plate too..

Thanks!

[e30davie]

With lip seals, front and main, i wouldn't touch it if its not leaking. Theory is that the lip can run a groove in the crank, and the new one might not seal properly which you can fix by moving the seal to a new spot, but then you'll have to remove the gbox again..... I bought a new seal when i did my clutch and when i saw mine wasn't leaking and left it. goes against my "while we are in here" approach, but yeah, be careful you don't create new problems.

[jsnppp]

With lip seals, front and main, i wouldn't touch it if its not leaking. Theory is that the lip can run a groove in the crank, and the new one might not seal properly which you can fix by moving the seal to a new spot, but then you'll have to remove the gbox again..... I bought a new seal when i did my clutch and when i saw mine wasn't leaking and left it. goes against my "while we are in here" approach, but yeah, be careful you don't create new problems.

Appreciate that, I don't disagree. Both ends of the transmission is seeping so I don't see how I can escape it. I'll look carefully at the rear main seal on the engine, it looked wet but I'll make sure before I dig into it.

Would not be fun to go back in there again..

[jsnppp]

I've installed new clutch and everything is back in place.

Started car in neutral and all good. Pushed clutch in and feels ok (needs to be bled). However, at the very top of the pedal (near the floor) I get a grind noise, like throwout bearing is pushed too far into the pressure plate or something. Car isn't in gear, it's not transmission noise. Only happens at very top.

My first thought is the pedal travel is too much. So I thought I would back out the clutch stop. Unfortunately the stop falls out before it makes a difference as to the noise. Regardless this doesn't feel like the answer b/c I've never had a clutch feel like it's grinding on something at the end of the travel. I've owned a lot of manual cars. Feels like something is wrong.

Question - Any thoughts? I visually compared how I installed it and what it should be (in terms of clutch, throughout bearing, pinion bearing and the clutch lever arm). Again I think it could be bled but that would only make it happen sooner I think.

I didn't measure height of throwout bearing and compared it to original but should have.

~Jason

[jsnppp]

I found this link, feels similar: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...slave-cylinder

I did not change the clutch slave cylinder, but when I bled it I had accidentally let it extend too far off the car and had to disassemble it to put it back together.

Possibly the rod is extending too far now?

I have a new clutch slave coming but this is still weird...

Jason

[jsnppp]

Ok, I think installed the bleed screw backwards. I put it in pointing downwards because my new clutch slave line only fits that way. Feels like bleed valve should face up now that I think about it. However I can't see how this changes the distance the rod pushes out.

EDIT - google says I installed it correctly the first time, with bleeder facing down.

[jsnppp]

My next thought is that the clutch slave rod was misaligned in the throwout arm (for lack of better term) and maybe it is pushing too far...

[jsnppp]

SOLVED: Took about an hour to separate the transmission from the block. Took another hour to get it far enough back to be able to see inside. That metal gasket hung up and killed some time.

This is what I found:



As you can see the throw out was 90 degrees off, allowing it to sit further in the carrier arm and thus letting the carrier arm hit the pressure plate.

Took another 2 hours to put it back together, the stupidest things slowed me down.

Truth be told, I can still make the grinding noise but only iff the clutch stop is removed and the clutch pedal allowed to hit the literal floor. With the stop in place, even at lowest position, no grind.

~Jason

[onesecond]

SOLVED: Took about an hour to separate the transmission from the block. Took another hour to get it far enough back to be able to see inside. That metal gasket hung up and killed some time.

This is what I found:



As you can see the throw out was 90 degrees off, allowing it to sit further in the carrier arm and thus letting the carrier arm hit the pressure plate.

Took another 2 hours to put it back together, the stupidest things slowed me down.

Truth be told, I can still make the grinding noise but only iff the clutch stop is removed and the clutch pedal allowed to hit the literal floor. With the stop in place, even at lowest position, no grind.

~Jason

Sorry to revive an old thread but I was wondering, did you not replace the flywheel when you did this job?

[jsnppp]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I was wondering, did you not replace the flywheel when you did this job?

Hi - happy to help. No in this case I did not replace the flywheel (nor did I resurface it). It was smooth and no issues beforehand so I felt it wasn't needed.

Jason