M42 timing chain

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  • BadCab
    Member
    • May 2009
    • 80

    #16
    Correct and easy? Nah. A block of wood and a floor jack thank you.

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    • SiGmA_X
      Wrencher
      • Mar 2006
      • 287

      #17
      But with a floor jack under there, its a major pain in the ass to drop the subframe and remove the pan. I watched my friend do it, PITA.... I can R&R a pan in ~2hr or so doing it my way, and I've only done a couple of them.
      :wgaf:

      PNW BMW Crew ///
      '93 325iS
      '99 528iT

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      • bmwpower
        E30 Mastermind
        • Jul 2007
        • 1556

        #18
        Replacing all the guides, chain, gears, tensioner will run about $500-600. Either do all of it or move on. Never replace just the gears without replacing the chain. The worn chain will wear out the new gears quickly.
        89 325is track project / 05 x5 / 99 M3
        E30 stuff for sale | Parts I'm looking for

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        • BadCab
          Member
          • May 2009
          • 80

          #19
          Originally posted by SiGmA_X
          But with a floor jack under there, its a major pain in the ass to drop the subframe and remove the pan. I watched my friend do it, PITA.... I can R&R a pan in ~2hr or so doing it my way, and I've only done a couple of them.
          Actually without the tranny all you have to do is unbolt 1 engine mount from the x-member and just jack the engine block up and pull out the oil pan. No need to unbolt the crossmember.

          Comment

          • SiGmA_X
            Wrencher
            • Mar 2006
            • 287

            #20
            Originally posted by bmwpower
            Replacing all the guides, chain, gears, tensioner will run about $500-600. Either do all of it or move on. Never replace just the gears without replacing the chain. The worn chain will wear out the new gears quickly.
            Yeah I'll be doing it completely. My spreadsheet says it will be roughly $900 for everything: all timing components, headgasket kit, 8 valves (Add $160 if the exhausts are bent, tho they look okay and held solvent; I let the machine shop tell me what's up tho of course), new guides and a valve grind. I figure its a better option to repair this motor, as the bottom end appears to be in great shape (not like I pulled it apart, but it appears dry and had great cold leakdown numbers..)
            Originally posted by BadCab
            Actually without the tranny all you have to do is unbolt 1 engine mount from the x-member and just jack the engine block up and pull out the oil pan. No need to unbolt the crossmember.
            Fair enough.
            :wgaf:

            PNW BMW Crew ///
            '93 325iS
            '99 528iT

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