How hot does your car run?

[monty23psk]

On the m42, the oil light and coolant temp are easily swapped. But also the wiring comes out the same wiring so maybe there is a bad contact. but like other said, could be sensor or ground issue.

[///digitalme]

I'm having this issue. My temp goes past the middle and if I press the window buttons the temp needle moves slightly. It has nothing to do with the cluster I have a spare and it does the same thing. I was told to check ground vlcables on the wngnw compartment and make sure there is no moisture in them and to clean the sensor cables. I was also told it's a common ground issue. And we did have quite some rain lately so anyone figure their problem?

[Balleristic31]

Well I did the mess under the intake and replaced my coolant temp sensor, but haven't put it back together yet. We will see if that does anything. (Doubt it)

[Balleristic31]

SOLUTION!!!

Did my mess under the intake and while I was down there I changed the temp sensor and it is back to normal!

[///digitalme]

SOLUTION!!!

Did my mess under the intake and while I was down there I changed the temp sensor and it is back to normal!

I need to do that! I found my problem as well. 3 cracked hoses. I tie them down with zip ties and added silicon to stop the leak temporarily and now my car idles fine and temp is not crazy. Although I'll order a temp sensor. How much was the sensor you got?

[Balleristic31]

I think it was like $13 at my local german parts distributor

[trackjunkie21]

My car usually runs at half temp, or so I think it does. All my gauge ever does is wave at me, until I bang on the dash it reads halfway, then I hit a bump and starts waiving again:(

[Balleristic31]

Wait guys! :hitler:

So after about a week of it being around normal temp.... Bam same problem. So temp sensor was NOT the solution. Ill be taking my cluster out soon and doing it Guten, and when I do ill make sure that ground in there is nice and tight.

[Balleristic31]

So it took out my cluster and tightened the ground...

So far so good! Its running back at normal "temp".

Hopefully it lasts! :hitler:

[Ryann]

Just a tip if the pump has never been changed be prepared to smash at it for about 1 to 2 hours with a small sledge hammer.

I realize this is an older post and a bit OT, but THIS IS NOT THE WAY TO REMOVE YOUR WATER PUMP.

There are four bolts attaching the pump to the block, and there are two EXTRA threaded holes in the pump housing without bolts. Once you've removed the four mounting bolts, use two of those bolts to thread into the EXTRA holes. Carefully screw them into the holes evenly and they'll begin to make contact with the block, thus forcing the pump and it's o-ring out of their bore.

Sheesh.

[Balleristic31]

I realize this is an older post and a bit OT, but THIS IS NOT THE WAY TO REMOVE YOUR WATER PUMP.

There are four bolts attaching the pump to the block, and there are two EXTRA threaded holes in the pump housing without bolts. Once you've removed the four mounting bolts, use two of those bolts to thread into the EXTRA holes. Carefully screw them into the holes evenly and they'll begin to make contact with the block, thus forcing the pump and it's o-ring out of their bore.

Sheesh.

No no no! You have to smash it








;)

[u3b3rg33k]

So my thermostat failed, and I replaced it, along with the reservoir - water pump hose that failed a week later, and I can say with certainty, the only time my gauge is reliable now is when it's pegged in the red. Even when the heat goes away because it's low on water it sits just below 1/4 (although I can't really fault it for that, since no coolant on the sensor is well, no coolant on the sensor).

Months ago, it used to sit at the 1/4 mark. now it gets there while heating up, and the heater air is barely warm. It will sit anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4, usually hovering around just over 1/2, and if I whack the dash, it may go to 1/4 or 3/4, and the SI lights may change, and the tach may jump.

Have I mentioned how much I love old car electricals? At least it's not a Lucas wiring job...

[gearheadE30]

Did you get this sorted? My car is doing the same thing now. A big part of the problem was traced to a loose hose clamp that was letting out one drop at a time over a long period of time, gradually letting air into the T-stat housing. I think the t-stat got damaged though, as the problem (I think that was the only one) is still there....but it's pretty new.

[Balleristic31]

Yea I got it fixed.

The car itself was never actually overheating. The ground behind the gauge on the cluster was just loose and giving a false reading.

[e30BMart]

That doesn't sound right.

My '91 318i is generally between the blue bar an 1/4. Hottest I've seen it get was half way between 1/4 and 1/2, and that was in stop and go traffic on a 35-ish*C day with me driving like a jackass.

And you sure you have a summer temp gauge?