cheap way to check time.... bring the motor to TDC and put a straight edge across the square block at the end of the cams.
Knocking m42 valvetrain
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Continued input appreciated.
Car has ~4 quarts of Castrol 10w-40, ~1 quart of Castrol 10w-30, and ~3/4 quart of Redline ATF in it currently (all fresh).
Sorry – but I just don’t have the stomach to bring it up to 6K sounding like that. If it hasn’t settled by now after the hour + run time – then I simply must get at the lifters and at least examine them.
And yes – for the love of god – I will triple-check the timing.Comment
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I hope you can figure this out, because mine sounds almost exactly the same. I'm not sure of the condition of my timing chain guide rails, I believe that is the issue in my case. Its so strange seeing as you've rebuilt the engine and this is what happens first?
Hope you figure it out man.Reminiscing...Comment
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You can advance/retard the timing on the cams up to 6deg either way.
If it was out of time enough for the valve noise to be from piston slap, it wouldn't idle or drive.Originally posted by Grueliusand i do not know what bugg brakes are.Comment
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Does anyone else think that the marks look off in this pic. This guy said he had 14 pins(7 links) mark-to-mark between the marks(http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11717), the OP has 16pins(8 links)mark-to-mark. One of the cams is off. If this is the case, the only way to tell which one is off is to bring the crank pulley to TDC and see which sprocket/mark isn't straight up.
EDIT-Everybody take out your E36 Bentley's if you have one, i'll wait...............turn to pg 117-2 fig.4, there is a poor-ass photo showing the chain assy, 7 links mark-to-mark. Turn to page 117-4 fig. 9, an illustration also showing 7 links mark-to-mark. They are M44's BUT it should be the same when it comes to the M42.Last edited by MikeDE; 05-19-2011, 02:30 PM.-03/2005 E46 330D Touring 6spd(204hp/410nM) Sapphire Black/Naturbraun Sport...300k KM & 35mpg(mixed)Comment
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I don't think that following the chain link is right way per se...
Simon, did you use the alignment tool to set the cam's correctly?IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Out in shop on phone - so I'll do the best I can to compose here..
1. Engine ran w/out chatter before tare-down.
2. Chain was zip tied to sprockets entire time when off. Anything is possible - but I don't think # of links between sprockets changed.
3. Mike - the way the intake sprocket arrow points off to the right a bit is bugging me too. I'd read where having exhaust @ 0 and intake slightly advanced was ideal, so when I got it to this point, I was like "fine, whatever".
4. I basically put the chain on and adjusted the sprockets to center of slots.
5. I have the cams and lifters out now - and really, there isn't anything one can really "do to them". I've taken one lifter, and dunked it in gas and hit it with compressed air. After this 'flush' procedure, the lifter 'freed' up - and I can pop it in with gentle pressure - and pop it out by blowing compressed air into orifice.
Right now, I plan to flush all lifters and also move that intake sprocket 'one tooth' so they * should * both truly point straight up.Comment
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With that one little baby orifice, it's near impossible to 'prefill'Comment
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Beginning to wonder if prior owner/mechanic had set cam sprocket slots at their extreme in order to compensate for being one tooth off..Comment
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fwiw, I'm going to attempt to flush and pop all lifters 'out', then dunk in oil for a bit (in effort to fill them) then install as best I can.
When I pulled the lifters, all appeared fine and appeared to be getting oil to them.Comment
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I hope it all works out! Are you using the tool to set the cams properly?IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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