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    Knocking m42 valvetrain

    After replacing head gasket and putting everything back together, my engine makes a loud tapping/knocking sound that I suspect is from valvetrain. My fear is that I unintentionally bent valve(s). I was very careful when handling the head – and do not recall a time when I set it down on a valve area.

    I put a new chain tensioner in. It was loud(er) for a few seconds (loose chain) – but then settled back to the tractor-noise after a few seconds.

    Timing appears good with both cam sprocket arrows up and crank pulley arrow lined up.

    Head was pulled with exhaust manifold on it (it had fresh studs/bolts) – and sat for about a week on table. I didn’t touch or move the cams while head was off. I didn’t remove camshafts. When head was placed on block, all pistons were half-down as to not potentially hit valves.

    When I took engine apart, intake cam sprocket was fully one way – and exhaust sprocket was fully the other way. Per manual, I set them both to center of adjustment slots.


    Video. Engine holds idle. No codes.



    Here’s how the head sat most of the time for the week. Chunks of wood running down sides so head wasn’t resting on valves.



    For a little while it was supported at ends on crates. I sat it on its end while performing mild cleaning.



    I also set it very gently down in an up-side-down position while addressing pitted area at profile gasket.



    OCD was in full effect. Almost constantly shop vac-ing and using compressed air.

    Here’s how new-from-box plugs looked after less than 4 minutes of run time (#4-#1, left to right)



    Let me know if you can confirm bent valves, or bad lifters, or whatever.. I pulled the valve cover and turned things over several times with a socket wrench on crank bolt. Couldn’t/didn’t hear or see anything obvious while doing this.




    I feel really defeated. I feel like a moron. Over the last month, I’ve busted ass replacing radiator, alternator, timing chain guides, chain tensioner, case gaskets, both pan gaskets, oil pressure valve, intake gaskets, fuel injectors, spark plugs, O2 sensor, front crank seal, new cat, Supersprint system, all new exhaust hangers, front and rear wheel bearings, front/rear brake rotors, rear axle boot kits, e36 rack, Mark D chip, Optima battery, sway bars, reinforced front subframe, headlight pigtails, tweeter pods, hood strut, shaving bay, finish detail on COP conversion, throttle and c/c cables, fuel, fuel pump, level sender, fuel filter, belts, other shit I’m forgetting – and now this happens.. I just – I just don’t have the words..
    Last edited by Simon S; 06-04-2011, 07:53 PM.
    -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

    #2
    Fuck dude, that blows. Sorry to hear, hope its nothing crazy. GL

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      #3
      That sounds a lot like my engine did before I replaced all 16 lifters. See if you can narrow down to the cylinder, on my engine it turned out to be cylinder 3 and 4 exhaust lifters causing the majority of the knocking. Just letting you know what the case was for me.

      FYI those fuckers ain't cheap $17.25 a piece times 16 = a good chunk of change but the loss of the noise was well worth it.
      sigpic

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        #4
        Sounds like chain noise to me.

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          #5
          Damn, similar thing happened to me when I had just buttoned up my freshly rebuilt m50...I had what sounded like rod knock but luckily turned out to be just my rods smacking the oil pan baffle. I wanted to die.

          Could that be bad lifters? Did you soak them in oil before reinstalling them?
          IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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            #6
            Man, lifters would be somewhat good news. At least I wouldn't have to pull the f'ing head again (i think).

            They are hydraulic - I bet storing the head in different positions did drain whatever oil was in them. The knock didn't soften in the ~4 total minutes I ran it. Afraid to run it any more until I have a better idea what to address. My first thought was that it was the lifters - and I expected knock to soften and go away after ~20-30 seconds (it didn't).

            Then there's the plugs.. I'm puzzled why #1 & #3 are fouled. That should be a big clue - to what, I'm not sure yet.

            Sounds kinda like chain noise to me too, but new guides and tensioner should've put that system in good order.

            I'm leaning toward lifters at this time. If effect - they were put in in what should have been a pretty dry state. Should they have been soaked? I guess I'd like to save/use current lifters if possible. I'm going to dig around and see if I can find information on m42 lifters.

            Before all this work - there was a soft 'chatter' from valvetrain - but nothing anywhere near the tractor sound I'm getting now.

            By all means - please wish me luck with this.
            -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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              #7
              If you think it's starved lifters I'd drain the oil and fill with 0w, take it out and punish it.

              My bet's still on t-chain though.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Car Addict
                That sounds a lot like my engine did before I replaced all 16 lifters. See if you can narrow down to the cylinder, on my engine it turned out to be cylinder 3 and 4 exhaust lifters causing the majority of the knocking. Just letting you know what the case was for me.

                FYI those fuckers ain't cheap $17.25 a piece times 16 = a good chunk of change but the loss of the noise was well worth it.
                Thank you. I really appreciate your input on this. ANYTHING is currently sounding better than having to pull the head for w/e work.. ug.

                Wondering if I should learn more/seek out those "VW lifters".
                Shit - might as well after all the other things I've done. lol
                Maybe I can remove/flush/soak/reinstall what I have and cross my fingers..
                -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ryann
                  My bet's still on t-chain though.
                  Trying to wrap my head around what would cause chain to now make noise like that..

                  If it helps with troubleshooting the chain, here's what cam sprockets looked like when i found them. (they are fully "apart")



                  Here's how I set them:

                  -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

                  Comment


                    #10
                    drive it. the lifters need to pump up. you do clean work. Im pretty sure this is your problem. It can get to be a very violent noise. hold it at about 2.5k and let it run. sometimes it takes a while. like 10 min. I came home from school started my car and I got huge rattle.

                    I freaked out for a second and then drove it. Sound went away in about 1o minutes. my car sounded exactly the same

                    Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
                    Ig:ryno_pzk
                    I like the tuna here.
                    Originally posted by lambo
                    Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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                      #11
                      Did you expand the tensioner before inserting it? Sounds like the left chain guide slapping the timing case. That's too fast/loud to be one valve.

                      Run a quart of ATF to clean the gunk out of the lifters too.
                      Originally posted by Gruelius
                      and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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                        #12
                        Pull your tensioner piston, snap a pic, and post up.

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                          #13
                          Check your chain guides, I changed my chain tensioner to the updated m44 one and ran into that sound also, it turned out my chain guides were all chewed up and the chain was hitting the guides and rubbing on the plastic walls on them and parts of the metal were bent up and a part of the plastic had broke off. Also I was told that when you place the new tensioner you are supposed to hit the side of the tensioner cover that is shaped like a nut with a hammer to make the spring inside pop out and push the piston out.

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                            #14
                            is it possible that the timing changes with the sprocket adjustment and thats causing the valves to knock?

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                              #15
                              yeah pump those suckers up with a drive!

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