Replacing Timing Case

[PeabnutBubber]

I was told that you have to check to see if the crank has any play and I did and it seemed like it wasn't going anywhere. Although maybe there's more to it?

[Ryann]

Gently pry between one of the crank counterweights and a main bearing cap and see how far the crank will move lengthwise.

[PeabnutBubber]

I was able to fit in the shiny new timing case finally. It was a lot easier than I expected. I RTV'd the head gasket onto the top of the case. I fitted the timing case onto the crank and then I slid a rigid plastic cover sheet from one of those 5-Star notebooks over the gasket on top. I used a rubber hammer to evenly tap the case into place. It seemed to work out really well.

After pulling the plastic sheet out it looks like the rubber gasket on top of the case was sitting in perfectly. I bolted the whole thing in and attached the crank pulley. Afterwards I sealed the upper oil pan back in with some RTV. It was slightly complicated but I didn't even have to pull the oil pan completely off of the car to do the whole job. (Dirt off shoulder) I did have to unbolt the steering rack for extra room to maneuver the pan. I had to use some leg strength to kind of kick it back onto the brackets too. Otherwise though it looks like the "right stuff" makes a really great seal. I hope it holds up to synthetic.

Next thing to do is put all the new and improved timing case stuff back in- then time and close up the whole deal. That should be Friday's job.

[Dj Buttchug]

good shit bubberz

[PeabnutBubber]

Alright, so after getting everything back together and finally the moment of startup.... it won't start. I need help here. It is cranking but it doesn't seem to be igniting. At times I get a backfire out of the intake. Also, there is a loud clacking sound and when cranking it with out the valve cover, it looks like the chain is jumping somewhere down in the lower section of the timing case. I can see it bouncing on the tensioned guide rail looking down into it with my flashlight. I don't really know what to do here. Any help is super appreciated.

I'm pretty certain the timing is right, I had it at TDC and then i adjusted the cams+camgears into place as best as I could. Everything seemed correct in the timing case.

Let me know of any other details that you guys may need.

[KenC]

Your tensioner is probably not pressurized.

Make sure you're not 180 out on timing.

[PeabnutBubber]

I think Ill take it apart and try to time it again. I have flames shooting out downwards from the underside of the intake boot when it backfires.. Isn't that was supposed to be sealed?

[PeabnutBubber]

Your tensioner is probably not pressurized.

Make sure you're not 180 out on timing.

You mean like the timing is completely backwards? It could be the case, but the lobes on the #1 cylinder of the cams were pointing up and towards each other and I had found that point on the flywheel where TDC is. I'll double check with a long screwdriver in the #1spark plug hole.

Also, the tensioner was contracted when I put it in but extended itself when I was starting it.

[KenC]

Put Cyl #1 (front) at TDC and take a pic of your cam gears and cam lobes.

[PeabnutBubber]

This is what I got today. I put cylinder 1 at TDC. (The top of the stroke) I adjusted the cams so that the two lobes over #1 were facing towards each other but up a little and the squares on the back of the cans were flat and even with each other. I checked TDC again to make sure it was maintained. (I paint markered the timing cover and the big crank wheel in spots corresponding to TDC) I double checked the wire order and then made sure I had gas. I crank and it sounds different from yesterday. It seems more normal now and the clacking is gone but there's still no start.

Can the timing still be off enough that it would prevent the engine from starting? I am definitely perplexed. The car has been sitting for 3-4 months. Is there possibly anything from the time sitting that could cause it not to start?

[KenC]

And the arrows on your cam gears are both perpendicular to the head?

[PeabnutBubber]

And the arrows on your cam gears are both perpendicular to the head?

Yeah I made sure that the arrows were both pointing directly up engine-wise.

[PeabnutBubber]

IT LIVES!!!

It turns out the crank sensor wire in the front was cut up and mangled. I took it apart and tried to do the best and cleanest job I could of splicing and reconnecting the wire and when I plugged it in..... BOOM. That sh*t works. It sounded a little crazy at first, I could hear the chain rattling and the engine was making a kind of higher pitched whining sound when revved, but that thing woke up from the dead. I feel like Dr. Frankenstein.

There is still a lot of ticking coming from either the valves or the lifters but otherwise it is sounding pretty good. I put some Rislone into the oil to see if that would help the ticking.

Also I just want to say thanks for the help you guys gave a noob like me. I honestly could not have fixed it without the help of you guys and m42club. Great work team, we got another E30 out on the streets.

One of my friends and one of the chickens that kept jumping up into the engine bay. She was like "I want to learn!" and I was like "Chicks don't know nothin bout cars!"


Feels good, man.

:pimp:

[110stx]

Excellent! Glad to hear she's running again.

[Dj Buttchug]

hahahahhhahahahahahahahahahah that picture.