New timing components?!

[bmwm42]

Where do you see two

[salvuhdor]

14 and 17

[salvuhdor]

I'm now thinking about waiting until end of March to just buy this whole damn thing and install it. DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT.

[salvuhdor]

Okay if I'm doing this myself. What will I need to know? I have to be real careful with the gears and chain. What tools will l need. Or should I just take it to a BMW specialist?

[roguetoaster]

You shouldn't need more than basic tools, a breaker bar for the crank bolt, and something to lock the cam squares in the rear down. I can assure you that if you do it yourself and need to buy tools you will save a bundle. Just read up on the procedure here or on M42club if you have any apprehensions.

[salvuhdor]

You shouldn't need more than basic tools, a breaker bar for the crank bolt, and something to lock the cam squares in the rear down. I can assure you that if you do it yourself and need to buy tools you will save a bundle. Just read up on the procedure here or on M42club if you have any apprehensions.

Nice! Super thanks!
Going to start this project next month. As soon as I have the cash to buy all the parts! Once again thanks.
Never in my life have done any work like this. Hopefully I don't mess shit up to the point where I need a new engine..

[roguetoaster]

Read, read, read, and read some more. Know the process back to front, use sound judgement before forcing a fastener on or off, keep track of parts, don't rush if unsure, don't get upset, and you will be okay.

[salvuhdor]

Should it be easier to remove the m42 and work on the timing components as shown? Or just go at it while mounted on the car?

I prettty much already figured out all the parts needed. Going to order as soon as taxes come in and next paycheck.
About $700 for all components.

[torell]

define easier ;D taking engine out without proper tools is PITA. If you remove fan fan clutch water pipes you have enough room to do the job. Remove the hood and then have a better acces. If you have a some kind car lifter then even better or just jack it up. The hardest part is a crank bolt if you don't know how to bite it. Use a breaker bar put a wooden block on frame and crank it gently it comes without a sweat.

[salvuhdor]

define easier ;D taking engine out without proper tools is PITA. If you remove fan fan clutch water pipes you have enough room to do the job. Remove the hood and then have a better acces. If you have a some kind car lifter then even better or just jack it up. The hardest part is a crank bolt if you don't know how to bite it. Use a breaker bar put a wooden block on frame and crank it gently it comes without a sweat.

I've removed a engine before never an e30 or let alone a BMW engine. I have tools and all but it would seem more convenient for me to just work on the timing components while engine is intact and hood is removed of course.

I'm already aware of the crank bolt and have an idea in how I'm going to go at it.

Thanks for the advice!

[roguetoaster]

I've removed a engine before never an e30 or let alone a BMW engine. I have tools and all but it would seem more convenient for me to just work on the timing components while engine is intact and hood is removed of course.

I'm already aware of the crank bolt and have an idea in how I'm going to go at it.

Thanks for the advice!

It really isn't too bad in car, which is only way I have done it, just remove the radiator and if you have a helper, the hood too.

As for the crank bolt, try it by hand first, with the flywheel locked (some may take issue with this), as it may have been off before. Failing that you can use the starter to remove it, seems like a scary prospect, but it does work (make sure the flywheel is unlocked of course). When I did used the starter I put a bit of 2x4 on the chassis, got some pipe to extend the length breaker, taped the socket in place on the bolt to prevent breaking the socket or rounding the bolt and just let it hit the wood rather that the car itself.

[HarukoE30]

I've removed a engine before never an e30 or let alone a BMW engine. I have tools and all but it would seem more convenient for me to just work on the timing components while engine is intact and hood is removed of course.

I'm already aware of the crank bolt and have an idea in how I'm going to go at it.

Thanks for the advice!

Just take your time, but also post in the Cali sub-forum to see if anyone can assist. Great community there.

[salvuhdor]

Okay I'm in the final steps of ordering.

The genuine BMW timing chain is $175 on pelican but there is another brand for $50. Should I save $125 by going aftermarket?

P.S everything I bought for this project is all genuine BMW including the gaskets and all guides, rails etc but there is a big price difference on timing chain.
Anyone have knowledge on this matter?! Big quality difference? on the site, BMW timing chain has 2 year warranty the other has 1 year.

[twistednut]

FYI The crankshaft bolt is TTY and needs to be replaced. Also, the upper bolt on the driver side guide rail needs to be replaced with the updated version which is slightly longer.

If I was doing this job I would take the time to drop the lower and upper pans and check the thrust bearing for excessive wear before ordering any timing components. If it is out of spec I would put everything back together and start looking for a replacement motor. If it is within spec I would replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version and replace the pan gaskets and then replace the timing components.

[roguetoaster]

Okay I'm in the final steps of ordering.

The genuine BMW timing chain is $175 on pelican but there is another brand for $50. Should I save $125 by going aftermarket?

P.S everything I bought for this project is all genuine BMW including the gaskets and all guides, rails etc but there is a big price difference on timing chain.
Anyone have knowledge on this matter?! Big quality difference? on the site, BMW timing chain has 2 year warranty the other has 1 year.

The chain is an okay place to save some money, last non BMW one I put on an M42 is still running fine as far as I know. Which brand is it anyway?

FYI The crankshaft bolt is TTY and needs to be replaced. Also, the upper bolt on the driver side guide rail needs to be replaced with the updated version which is slightly longer.

If I was doing this job I would take the time to drop the lower and upper pans and check the thrust bearing for excessive wear before ordering any timing components. If it is out of spec I would put everything back together and start looking for a replacement motor. If it is within spec I would replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version and replace the pan gaskets and then replace the timing components.

Where did you read the bolt is torque to yield and needs replacement? Further, almost no one ends up torquing it properly as it's not easy to lock the crank solidly other than via the FW.

I get the point you are making, but frankly many, if not most, of the 20+ year old engines are out of spec (often way out), but they run reasonably. So it really does not make sense to get a replacement engine as long as the current one is not knocking or spewing oil and still makes good butt dyno numbers. Further, if this engine gives it up in some way other than the timing gear you can just take all of these new parts and put them on a new engine at that time.

Doing the oil pressure relief valve is a good idea, IIRC the updated one is plastic, so be sure to ask specifically if you are going to order it as some places use old and new parts rather interchangeably.