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    M42 valve cover bolts

    I took off my valve cover, when I tried putting it back on almost none of the bolts seem to get tight at all. Is this common? What should I do?
    Originally posted by TSI
    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
    OEM+

    #2
    Helicoils on the head, it's not uncommon when over tightened that the threads on the head are damaged my m40 has similar problems & my m42 has two threads on the head with helicoils in it

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      #3
      and it's not like this is my first time wrenching, I know how to take off and put a bolt on thank god. Just very weird. It's not leaking but I don't feel confident in it
      Originally posted by TSI
      ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
      OEM+

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        #4
        These bolts take about 8lbs of torque. If too tight you have lost the thread. Time to learn how to helicoil
        Last edited by salvuhdor; 04-14-2013, 09:11 AM.

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          #5
          The M42 valvecover bolts are designed to tighten fully against the head. The protrusion is sized to apply the correct amount of squeeze on the valvecover gasket. So if they keep spinning the female threads in the head are stripped.

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            #6
            Fair enough. I bought new bolts that are about 3 threads longer than the old bolts, fitted it with the rubber boots and spacers and they seem to have done the trick.
            Originally posted by TSI
            ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
            OEM+

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              #7
              Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
              Fair enough. I bought new bolts that are about 3 threads longer than the old bolts, fitted it with the rubber boots and spacers and they seem to have done the trick.
              Seems like a good solution vs a Helicoil. I am assuming you used a straight through bolt rather than the stock double shouldered?

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                #8
                The threads in the head will ALL die eventually. Constant thermal expansion/contraction cycling will ensure that as the aluminum and steel parts expand different amounts. The rubber bushings are supposed to help, but they don't.

                I had to helicoil every damn one.

                Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                  Seems like a good solution vs a Helicoil. I am assuming you used a straight through bolt rather than the stock double shouldered?
                  standard straight through bolt.
                  Originally posted by TSI
                  ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                  OEM+

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
                    The threads in the head will ALL die eventually. Constant thermal expansion/contraction cycling will ensure that as the aluminum and steel parts expand different amounts. The rubber bushings are supposed to help, but they don't.

                    I had to helicoil every damn one.
                    http://bmw.e30tuner.com/articles_vchc.php
                    great write up
                    https://www.facebook.com/BentOverRacing

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                      #11
                      Seriously good write-up. When I did the valve cover I found a couple of mine to be stripped, will definitely be referring to this at some point.
                      Different strokes for different folks.

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                        #12
                        Just had to helicoil every freakin one also. About $40 in parts and 2 hours time if you're moving slow and you'll be set. Used that write up as a reference because I've never done it, was painlessly easy.
                        91 318is M50 swapped
                        05 Honda Pilot

                        24V swap thread
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524

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                          #13
                          The longer bolt solution will only work for so long. Dependent on how manny times you take your cover off. I did that as a quick fix to mine and the holes eventually wore out again. And I got tired of adding spacers and trying to get very hole perfect.

                          I eventually just got some threaded inserts from grainger and did all of my holes except for the 2 that weren't damaged.
                          DENY IGNORANCE!
                          Schwarz 325-totaled
                          brilliantrot 318i-daily

                          Originally posted by mkcman17
                          don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

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                            #14
                            the best way to fix this problem is convert to valve cover studs. run 8x1.25 studs with washers and 10mm nuts. all the stuff can be found at ace hardware.

                            Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
                            Ig:ryno_pzk
                            I like the tuna here.
                            Originally posted by lambo
                            Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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                              #15
                              Use time certs. 1000X better than helicoils.
                              sigpic

                              Check out my build thread!! :p

                              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=288383

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