starting issues after chain overhaul

[wideboi]

hey guys, new to the forum and allready have issues :s

so i have replaced the chain, guides and sprockets and after putting everything back together the car starts fine and idles for around 10 seconds then dies. i try to crank it and now it wont start. it sounds like its missing and i hear a big cluck after it turns over a few times, and the noise is like a valve hitting a pison.

im going to check the timing tomorrow but though someone else could give me ideas to check.

any replys would be apreciated :)

[bmwman91]

First, remove the spark plugs and try turning the engine over by hand with a wrench on the crank bolt. See if there is resistance, like something is hitting a piston. If that checks out, then run a compression test while the plugs are still out.

[wideboi]

ok so checked tdc and was fine. so went to take off the sump and found this :(




any ideas?

[bmwman91]

Everything there makes 100% sense as to why it is there, but I doubt that it has to do with your no-start issue.

- The bolts are from a common issue where they work loose and fall out of the upper oil pan. You need to clean the holes with some brake cleaner and reinstall those with some Loc-Tite. When they fall out, sometimes the gasket around the oil sump passage implodes and the oil pump will be sucking air.

- The steel chunks are rollers from the old timing chain. If you still have it, you can probably see where they came from. Here is what can happen if you drive the car hard with those in there lol.

http://bmw.e30tuner.com/my318is_pic_oilfailure.php

Both of those usually only become issues when you red-line the engine. Honestly, it sounds like you need a compression test. Are the cams still in alignment?

You (everyone, actually) NEED to buy a magnetic oil pan drain plug. It has saved my butt on a few occasions.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1798-magnetic-oil-drain-plug-for-most-bmws.aspx

[wideboi]

ok so i checked the timing again and it was fine. tried to crank it over again and still the same problem. checked my spark and was all good, checked my fuel and no fuel. the pump dosent even prime when i turn the key. checked power to the pump and no live going there, checked the fuse and no power going to the fuse. after this i am stuck. anyone know where the pump relay is located on a 1990 318is m42?

Cheers

[bmwman91]

Aaah, sounds like the fusible link is busted or blown. Your battery is in the trunk, right? Check the relay first, but chances are that it is this.

Assuming so, here's what to check. Find the +12V terminal block on the right side of the firewall. It is usually partially hidden behind the plastic cover. You'll see the giant black wire going to the main block, and a smaller ~4mm wire going to a block above it. They are actually separate. Check for 12V on the smaller upper block that the smaller black wire goes to. If you get nothing there, then the fusible link is either broken or blown. This is actually pretty common, especially if water ever got into the trunk and corroded it.

The fusible link is about 75cm from the battery, on the smaller wire. That smaller wire is what the injection system gets all of its power from. If the relay checks out, you'll need to remove the plastic cover over the +12V wires and cut off the insulation where the link is. Make sure that the - cable is disconnected first. Many times the wire going into the link corrodes and breaks off. I do not know if you can get a new OEM one. I accidentally shorted that wire once when I was tightening down some seat belt bolts and blew it, and I got a replacement at a local junk yard. Someone else here might be able to suggest an after-market replacement that is suitable.

[irish44j]

just a thought - you had the timing case open, etc.....did you correctly reconnect/reinstall the crank position sensor? If it's not reading correctly, the ECU won't know the engine is cranking and won't activate the fuel pump relay.

So....check that. It's something that you would have messed with while doing timing work, so it's a possible culprit.

[irish44j]

btw, since you asked, the fuel pump relay is one of the three up at the top of the firewall on the driver's side. I forget which one it is offhand.

[wideboi]

ok so found that an earth to my dodgy aftermarket alarm had broken and i changed the fuel pump relay as i bought it anyway. so the engine starts now but shes got a horrible misfire on no.2. did a compression test and no 2 was at 30 psi :(
i dont think iv bent a valve as i locked the engine up. anyone have any suggestions?

[wideboi]

[wideboi]

ok looks like the worse has happened. looked through a bore scope and noticed 2 notches in the piston on the exhaust side. i looked the no 1 piston and its all smooth, so looks like the head needs to come off :(

[bmwman91]

The pistons do have cut-outs for the valves, so that is normal. Or did you see abnormal scoring marks?

[irish44j]

ok looks like the worse has happened. looked through a bore scope and noticed 2 notches in the piston on the exhaust side. i looked the no 1 piston and its all smooth, so looks like the head needs to come off :(

you mean like this?

[wideboi]

The pistons do have cut-outs for the valves, so that is normal. Or did you see abnormal scoring marks?

yeah these 2 marks were not on the other side, and from what i saw i didnt have 4 cut outs on the piston.

these marks were around here as i had limited visibility through the spark plug hole which would explain why i couldnt see the 4 valve cut outs

[Dj Buttchug]

if you need good valves I have a full valve train you can pick from. good luck op