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Fresh m42 top end rebuild

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    Fresh m42 top end rebuild

    Is it normal for the car to run a rough for a few days after changing the top end and timing components? The damn thing idles low when starting then smooths out after a few minutes. It drives great except low speeds, then it kinda jerks and sometimes dies. I'm going to jump in tonight and tear apart and check everything under the manifold and take upper manifold off. Also i put in 10-40 since i don't leak everywhere and the oil light randomly comes on for a few then off, I'm wondering if i got coolant on the oil pressure connector? It's throwing the 1215 code right now, afm and intake leak. Well I'm 99% positive there isn't one. So i probably got something on the afm connector or plug. any input would be great.

    Thanks!

    #2
    Did you prime the pump
    Originally posted by bmwm42
    PNW vulture pm me for parts
    Strategic nw e30 command

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      #3
      Dang it. Haha

      Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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        #4
        Check your coolant and oil connectors
        "Do what you love, and love what you do" -Ray Bradbury

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          #5
          prime what pump? you shouldnt have to prime the oil pump unless you tore the engine completely down.

          Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
          Ig:ryno_pzk
          I like the tuna here.
          Originally posted by lambo
          Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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            #6
            Oh I thought he said something else

            Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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              #7
              So going of the electrical manual I'm having a hard time figuring out color code for those 3 sensors. Oil is black, plug on the front top side of block is blue and rear is orange.

              Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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                #8

                These don't line up. Off by like 3° both sides.

                Chain is 7 links between arrows. But cams are not center on bolts. I think I can adjust them a little.

                TDC is locked in. Ignore oil, I had taken the filter cover off to check if i had a xtra O ring. Any input would be great.

                Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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                  #9
                  The top lobes of the cam blocks there should be perfectly level across (use a straight edge). If they're not, use an adjustable wrench to rotate one of them to make them level (with the cam sprocket bolts loosened). Once you lock them in position perfectly level, re-tighten the cam sprocket bolts.
                  Last edited by irish44j; 09-04-2013, 08:12 PM.
                  Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
                  Track/street e21 build
                  visit Condor Speed Shop
                  visit Motorsport Hardware



                  [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

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                    #10
                    Best way to lock in with out BMW tool?

                    Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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                      #11
                      my method: 2 adjustable wrenches, one on each. align them to where they should be, then use a vise-grip to hold the handles, which should be criss-crossed. Mine has been sitting on the bench like this for 2 months and hasn't moved :)

                      I can't really find a pic right now, but will post you one up tomorrow if you don't see what I'm saying.
                      Stage rally/rallycross e30 build/competition journal
                      Track/street e21 build
                      visit Condor Speed Shop
                      visit Motorsport Hardware



                      [FONT="Franklin Gothic Medium"] 1985 318i/M50 Rally Car - 1988 Porsche 924S - 2005 Sequoia tow pig - 2018 GTI

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by irish44j View Post
                        my method: 2 adjustable wrenches, one on each. align them to where they should be, then use a vise-grip to hold the handles, which should be criss-crossed. Mine has been sitting on the bench like this for 2 months and hasn't moved :)

                        I can't really find a pic right now, but will post you one up tomorrow if you don't see what I'm saying.
                        I just used 2 28mm wrenches and ziptied together. Lined up great.

                        Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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                          #13
                          is it me or is your timing of by a tooth? reference this guidehttp://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html
                          Originally posted by bmwm42
                          PNW vulture pm me for parts
                          Strategic nw e30 command

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by bmwm42 View Post
                            is it me or is your timing of by a tooth? reference this guidehttp://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html
                            Those pictures look like 7 teeth in between. His gears have a arrow on the outside I see.

                            Sent from my SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 4

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                              #15
                              So i moved the exhaust gear back one tooth and now it sits flush with intake and lined up in the middle. Also i see a lot of write ups where the timing tensioner is compressed. Why is that when you can push in with oil uncompressed and not risk jumping a tooth.

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