91 318is, no crank, no prime

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    Originally posted by jntar
    Take the battery in to get tested.
    took the battery in this morning, it was at 60% charge so they charged it up to 100% like new, and after reinstalling it nothing has changed.

    Originally posted by TobyB
    Really sounds like a bad high- current connection somewhere between the battery and starter.
    I had a car do this when the engine- to- body ground wire corroded through.
    Also when the starter loosened up on the block (ok, it was really loose)
    and many times with bad battery connections. Either at the terminals,
    or the grounds.

    I'd really dig though the thick cables on this first...

    t
    starter feels and looks secure. i whacked it gentle with a soft mallet, to free up the solenoid if it was intact stuck and no changes. i'm going out to buy a DMM (digital multimeter) to test some of the electrical. i just don't get why i have no turnover OR fuel priming.. i've honestly never had this issue before. thanks for the help gents keep it coming i DO greatly appreciate it.
    -Aaron

    Leave a comment:


  • TobyB
    replied
    Really sounds like a bad high- current connection somewhere between the battery and starter.
    I had a car do this when the engine- to- body ground wire corroded through.
    Also when the starter loosened up on the block (ok, it was really loose)
    and many times with bad battery connections. Either at the terminals,
    or the grounds.

    I'd really dig though the thick cables on this first...

    t

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    Originally posted by IRON-E
    How about the coil packs? Are they any good?
    I'm actually looking this up now on how to test these. i am testing for spark in the morning.

    Originally posted by jntar
    Take the battery in to get tested.
    the battery seems good. everything lights up as it did when it was running, the lights don't dim or fade when i go to turn it over; windows roll up/down quickly, etc. i am taking this in to test tomorrow as well (along with removing the amps and the sub that was in the car when i bought it)

    it just all seemed so sudden and random. it ran fine, and then the next day all this started...

    Leave a comment:


  • jntar
    replied
    Take the battery in to get tested.

    Leave a comment:


  • IRON-E
    replied
    How about the coil packs? Are they any good?

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    update: replaced the CPS and no changes. any ideas gents?

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    Originally posted by romeomike
    Check if you can hear about three clicks in rapid succession in the engine compartment when you turn the key to the run position. Silence would suggest your main DME relay (the five prong one) is bad.
    just checked and i can hear the rapid click when going from off to on, so DME is good. i guess tonight i'll try and crawl under in the street and get that damn hex bolt out

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    Originally posted by romeomike
    Check if you can hear about three clicks in rapid succession in the engine compartment when you turn the key to the run position. Silence would suggest your main DME relay (the five prong one) is bad.
    i'll double check this. i don't recall being able to hear anything, but i am a bit hard of hearing (thanks NAVY). is it possible to jump this relay similar to jumping the fuel relay?

    Leave a comment:


  • romeomike
    replied
    Check if you can hear about three clicks in rapid succession in the engine compartment when you turn the key to the run position. Silence would suggest your main DME relay (the five prong one) is bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    replied
    i'd also like to note that after conducting the stomp test I came back with this: 1444, which from what i have read inferes no codes present.

    Leave a comment:


  • dickfitzwell
    started a topic 91 318is, no crank, no prime

    91 318is, no crank, no prime

    Good morning gents. having a bit of an issue with my 91 318is (M42) and from what i gather this seems to be a somewhat common problem with our cars yet, as I searched through older threads on R3V and M42club I havent really found anything that is both a no crank and no fuel prime. most everyone has crank still therefore, here I am. detals below:

    I came home late a week ago and there was a brush fire at my apts, Emergency personnel had the street blocked off so i was forced to park up the hill a ways facing down hill (my usual spot is a flat surface). I went the next day to move the car to my apt spot and no go.

    1) At first the car cranked as if it was going to turn over then nothing. thought maybe my battery was drained, attempted to jump it and nothing. 2) I get ZERO engine crank and there is NO audible fuel pump prime at this time.
    3) I check the relays: pulled the plastic firewall shroud off, switched the 2 orange 4pronge relays with each other and still nothing.
    4) I attmepted to jump the fuel relay, front to back with a paperclip. when jumped and i turn the kep to on (KOIO) there is an audible fuel priming noise that is continuous until key is turned to off.
    5) talked with some local SOCAL guys via the chat thread and suggested the following: tapping on fuel pump housing with blunt object and possible CPS replacement.
    6) went to ecology and pulled a Cam and Crank position sensor from 91 318i donor, unknown condition (visiually looked in good shape) for $20 and yanked the relays as well.
    7) tried just the relays, no change. replaced Cam sensor (since its easily reached) no change.
    8 ) went to replace the Crank position sensor and came to find the allen head was rounded out (mind you i am now working on the car on the side of a busy street facing down hill, a bit nerve racking i'll admit).

    as of this mornign there is still no change. I am utilizing a buddy of mine and my old Disco to pull the car up the hill to my flat parking spot so i can work on it there, and will be trying to hammer in a torx bit to remove the rounded allen and replacing the CPS.

    my long winded question would be this: should i be suspecting the CPS or the actual fule pump (possibly in conjuction with the relays) to be the culprit? in my searching most guys have fixed their problem with the CPS, but not without already replacing the fule pump.

    lastely, it can be noted that i ahve had the car for about 2 weeks now, and have not driven it often, maybe 5 times, and each time when starting it up, it seemed to crank over slowly... which almost leads me to believe it wasnt getting fuel quick enough (i methodically always turn ignition on to prime to pump and wait for dash lights to illuminate and go off) to ensure there "should be" enough fuel primed in the system. any and all help would be greatly appreciated gents; this issue caused me to miss out on Bimmerfest which was a bit upsetting. thanks again.

    -Aaron
Working...