Anyone have a link to a write up or have a process that they prefer? The head is a spare and I'm thinking I might need to be a bit more prepared than I currently am. I'm also not sure if not having the head attached to the block will be a problem since I can't use TDC as a reference.
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fried chicken -
Use assembly lube, torque to specs, E marked cam is for the intake side, rotate cams so that as few valves as possible are open/protruding past the bottom of the head if you plan to store it.
It's not what I'd call a difficult job if you're just talking about the camshafts. -
go nice and slow. I can do the job in about 20 minutes now. just go nice and slow loosening up the nuts (1/4 turn at a time) and you will be fine. the cam lock tools can be had for $40, I recommend themComment
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The panic instructions are for the 6- the 4 can still break one, but it's a lot harder to do.
I think there's an article on Pelican's site, too, that's pretty good.
And the cam lock tool that's a pair of Crecent wrenches cracks me up. And it works!
tnow, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george gravesComment
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basically, as long as you dont rotate the camshaft when you take it out youre not going to hurt anything. you cant over extend the valves or anything like that. Ive seen the home made cam tools used by members of various boards, but for $40 off ebay why not get the proper tools??? if they were $150 sure I can see cheaping out, but they are affordable and make it a breeze. one problem I did run into with my cam locks is that they cannot slide all the way on with the m42 upper intake manifold installed.Comment
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Thanks for all the info. It's a spare head, so the cams were not attached when I picked it up. I've got everything on and finger tight, but I won't be putting this head on till spring when the weather clears up (no garage ftw). I guess I'm more worried about timing issues sinve the cams were taken out.fried chickenComment
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Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much!Originally posted by Dj Buttchug View Postfried chickenComment
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I'm reinstalling my camshaft; similar situation, cam trays and cams were removed so the head could be serviced by the machine shop.
The engine isnt quite at TDC. It was, until I removed the flywheel then it retarded a bit out of TDC. Ive included pictures of how it sat before I removed the cams and head
The head and cams are from a totally different engine now, but the cams are sitting in a similar fashion.
How do I safely reinstall the cam with all the valves at a closed position from the springs? The lobes at cylinder 1 look good, but further back the cam tray caps will have to be pressed down a bit seemingly
Should I reset to TDC? What would the steps to that be?Comment
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When reinstalling cams I normall lock the crank front the FW at TDC1, and plunk the cams in at almost TDC1 while very carefully tightening the bearing caps on those bearings that are elevated from spring pressure. I suppose it would be possible to get all pistons to near middle stroke and install the cams so that lobes were making minimal contact with lifters, but I thinl that could cause more problems than needed when you then try to rotate both cams and crank simultaneously to get back to TDC1.
Even if working on a stand with the objective of full assembly on the stand you should reset to TDC1 before doing anything. Which you can do by reinstalling the crank trigger assy and physically verifying TDC1 with a blunt screwdriver down a plug well. However, you may have to get creative to actually lock the crank without the FW installed, although you may be just as well served by marking TDC1 in several places before installing the chain and verifying this repeatedly during timing work. However, there is a chance that the crank will move during chain reinstallation and cause damage to the valve train, so if your stand allows it, reinstall the FW first.Comment
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