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Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

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    thanks roguetoaster for the tip. i will keep that in mind for the next parts order.

    i am buttoning up the lower timing case and the gaskets i got are the paper kinda. i was trying to do research on this but should i use permatex block with the paper gasket? the paper gaskets look really thin. also do i put on both sides of the gasket? if just one side, which side?

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      Yeah, a sealant on both sides of those is what you want. Deoending on actual thickness you can use anything from copper spray gasket to lightly applied RTV. If the gasket is truly paper thin I might sub in RTV by itself.

      Remember that any sealant can cause the gasket to bind/pinch, so be sure that you can see it around the entire perimeter before tightening. Nothing worse than getting the t case back together only to notice a pinched gasket at the bottom, ask me how I know.

      Comment


        With paper gaskets, particularly thin ones, I avoid RTV big time. It allows/causes the gasket to slide and squeeze out of the joint when tightening. Even too much of the spray-a-gasket sealer can cause this, with a notable case for me being the (relatively) thick thermostat housing gasket.

        In my opinion, either use the paper timing case gaskets dry, or skip them and just use RTV. With the RTV, the install procedure is a little different and takes longer. You need to apply a little bit to the mating interface, install the cover, finger-tighten the bolts, let it sit until the RTV cures, and then tighten the bolts all the way. If you tighten everything while the RTV is uncured, you tend to squeeze it all out.

        Personally, I have not really had issues with the paper gaskets leaking, even with synthetic oil. I used to blame them for oil seepage, but it was always due to a small gap or something where the profile gaskets butt-up against one another, or further up near the valve cover where the upper cover gasket sometimes leaves a gap.

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          i'm at the stage to mate the transmission but i've having a hell of a time and look to you all for some advice.

          i reinstalled flywheel, the clutch with the alignment tool and pressure plate, then pulled out the alignment tool and proceeded to stick the transmission on. i feel it catch on the splines. i cant rotate the shaft from the guibo side so i think it's inserted, but i am still maybe 1/2 inch away. i tried wrestling, finagling,shimmying it and i always get stuck 1/2 inch-ish away.

          i thought it was my alignment so i took out the pressure plate and clutch disc and try to put the transmission on to see if it hits the block and lines up with the holes and it does. so then i though the spleens were off but i was able to slide the clutch disc on the transmission input shaft while it was just resting on the floor.

          the clutch release bearing looks like its the right one. what else am i missing?

          Comment


            You might have a pilot bearing/input shaft size mismatch, there are two sizes. Slave cylinder not installed, right?

            Comment


              correct. slave cylinder not installed. its all the same parts from when it was removed before sending block to the shop.

              Comment


                Are the alignment sleeves in the block in good shape? If they get bashed, they will go out of round and not permit the transmission to seat all the way.

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                  New clutch/PP/TOB? For kicks, make sure you have the TOB/release arm in the correct orientation, shouldn't cause an issue with fitment if you did, but might make operating the clutch tricky.

                  You can also rotate the engine during install if you think that would be helpful. Depending on where the engine is placed it can be significantly difficult to install the transmission if the angles of the two mating surfaces are severely dissimilar, but normally the trans should slip right on.

                  Make sure the pilot bearing hole isn't full of stuff as well, and just roughly measure the diameters of the input shaft/bearing to rule out that the shop didn't change it just to be helpful.

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                    I bought threaded rods about the same size and length as the bellhousing bolts then used them as long guide pins. I forget what size but take one of your bolts to the hardware store to match.

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                      Ok so this might be a noob error buuut....the clutch alignment tool I had looks like it was my old one for when I did a transmission job on my e36 325i. Itís definitely the clutch dis alignment. I took it out again to see if the transmission inserts all the way again and it still does haha. I realized that thereís a lot of play from the top of the alignment tool and where the pilot bearing is. Is the alignment tool different between a 318 and 325?

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                        Well, okay then. Surprised that your new clutch didn't come with one. You did get a new clutch, right?

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                          roguetoaster no i didn't , i am reusing the one from previous owner i think it was less than 20K miles on it. so would i need to buy the 318 alignment tool or DIY one out of my 6 cylinder one?

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                            Bingo, although I'd be surprised that the 6 cyl one didn't work as I would've bet that the splines wouldn't have changed between a G240/M42 and E36 manual setups. Pretty sure I have a couple of M42 tools around, but I'd need to know the ID of your pilot bearing first so I can send you one that will work the first time.

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                              Shoot. I don't know the ID. The shop installed one for me. Taking a pic of the front of it won't help will it?

                              Comment


                                In the past, I have just wrapped the tool with duct tape to increase the diameter and get a better fit (when it's Sunday evening and you need the thing running in the morning...you improvise!).

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