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M42 Cam Gears - inspection request

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    #16
    I cannot find anywhere torque specs for any of the Timing Chain Guide Rails' bolts. Should I just hand tight them, or is there a specific torque spec I should use. I have found torque specs for lower and upper timing case bolts which are 9 ft-lbs.

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      #17
      For the most part, the torques for the fasteners are all the standard values for grade 8.8 M6 and M8 stuff. The M6 ones are tightened to 10 Nm / 89 in-lbs, and the M8 ones are tightened to 22 Nm / 195 in-lbs. There are occasional exceptions with special higher grade fasteners, but not with any of these. If you really want to be extra careful, you could use some medium strength thread locker, although it is really not necessary.

      Transaction Feedback: LINK

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        #18
        Thank you bmwman91, appreciate your help.

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          #19
          I am about to put back the valve cover. I am seeing some conflicting information as to where apply sealant. E36 Bentley manual only mentions half-moons at the back of the cylinder head cover. I have read some posts where people use sealant additionally on all half-moons on the top of the head. Also, I have come across this video where sealants is applied on every half-moon on top of the head. I am thinking of putting sealant on just the half-moons at the back of the cylinder head cover and maybe a tiny bit on two spots where upper timing chain cover meets the head. I was planning oo using Permatex Ultra Gray as that is what I have, but if I should use something else please let me know what you would recommend. Can anyone recommend where to exactly apply sealant to prevent any leaks?
          Link to the video
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=225ftQ0qRxc

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            #20
            You should use some at the t case to head interface as it's not often flat, depending on how not flat it is you may want to extend or reduce your coverage a sensible amount. You can, but do not really need to apply any to the half moons. Grey is fine. The most important factor here is not over-tightening the bolts, and having pliable grommets so the bolts don't bottom out.

            Remember, this gasket is often reusable, so more sealant means you will have more hassle if/when you remove it in future.

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              #21
              I've had my valve cover off a few times. I apply small dabs of sealant on the corners of the half moons at the back of the head and on the two spots where the timing case meets the head (at the front). Just small dabs, as roguetoaster said you don't need a ton. Initially I replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug well gaskets because they were old, but since then I've reused my valve cover gasket by washing it with a soap/water solution in a ziplock back (per my Chilton manual) and I haven't had any leaks.

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                #22
                I would not hesitate to run that sprocket. It's almost new.
                If you look at each tooth, you can see a minimal amount of wear (shiny)
                and a bunch of metal that hasn't even been contacted by the rollers yet.

                There are 2 styles of sprocket. One has points, the other has flats on the tips of the 'teeth'.
                The internet likes to say that the pointed teeth are cause by wear. I like to say that the internet
                is often misguided- but I often use stronger language than that.

                If you can get the later, metal style seals they do work better.

                t
                now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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