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Setting TDC in the M42 (Edit: Now a crank/no start issue)

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    #16
    Assuming the fuel pump was left untouched and you did not throw the fuel rail at a brick wall FPR-first, the injectors are really the only area I would be looking next. It does not hurt to replace the fuel filter while you are at it since it's a maintenance item, but it is not likely to be a problem here either.

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      #17
      Finally found some time to take a look at the injectors. Turns out I have Mustang injectors. All 4 were nearly spotless though and based on the amount of fuel that came out, I definitely have fuel pressure. Resistance was a bit high, but all were consistently only 1 ohm high, so I think they're fine.

      I guess my next theory is an intake leak or a bad sensor. Thanks again for the help so far

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        #18
        OK, yeah if they are all spraying fuel when cranking then they are not the issue. That also means that your crank position sensor is working since the ECU has to know the engine position before it will fire the injectors.

        Are the ignition coils connected to the correct cylinders? See if you can verify that you are getting sparks at all.

        For the most part, the engine should at least sputter with any of the other sensors unplugged (AFM, TPS, CLT, ICV, etc). The only one that will totally prevent it if not connected or working is the crank position sensor, which it sounds like works if the ECU was able to fire the injectors.

        Could the crank damper or hub be misaligned? If the woodruff key was missing, or the little dowel in the hub, then the timing could end up waaaaay off.

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          #19
          Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
          OK, yeah if they are all spraying fuel when cranking then they are not the issue. That also means that your crank position sensor is working since the ECU has to know the engine position before it will fire the injectors.

          Are the ignition coils connected to the correct cylinders? See if you can verify that you are getting sparks at all.

          For the most part, the engine should at least sputter with any of the other sensors unplugged (AFM, TPS, CLT, ICV, etc). The only one that will totally prevent it if not connected or working is the crank position sensor, which it sounds like works if the ECU was able to fire the injectors.

          Could the crank damper or hub be misaligned? If the woodruff key was missing, or the little dowel in the hub, then the timing could end up waaaaay off.
          The coils are definitely connected to the correct cylinders. I need to find my spark tester, but that's a good point.

          The crank sensor is fresh, so I trust that it's working.

          I definitely remember aligning the crank damper to a woodruff key, but I don't recall seeing a dowel. I don't think I ever separated the hub from the crank damper though, but I'll have to check that again when I get back to my car next weekend.

          Maybe it's a continuity issue somewhere? The parts themselves might test fine, but maybe the wiring in between is an issue.

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            #20
            Ahh maybe I should try an OEM crank sensor. I got the one from bosch and I'm now reading that I don't want to be using that one

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              #21
              It is hard to say. Some people have had bad luck with the Bosch one, some have been OK. The funny thing is that Bosch also makes the "genuine" one, but it has a different plug on the end an costs like 3x as much lol. Anyway, if you are getting fuel and/or spark, the CPS is probably fine.

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                #22
                Check for spark by pulling a plug.

                Check for fuel by squirting some starter fluid in there.

                Everything else is just... details.

                t
                now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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