Auto to 5speed Transmission Conversion Write up(56k no

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  • Steve30
    replied
    Sticky please!

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  • BS87
    replied
    The hardest thing i ever did on my E30 before i did my tranny swap was change the brake pads.

    Granted, i didn't get the whole swap done in day, but i made damn good time for someone who only had this writeup, the bentley, and questions.


    If i can do it, almost anyone can.

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmerbuddie
    this thread is very helpfull,
    i will do my swap next weekend, if i get all the parts here by this week
    one question, will the 5spd tranny from the e30 fit the m50 engine?
    It will fit, but needs a custom cross member because the tranny sits at an angle.

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  • BS87
    replied
    So after quickly fixing the fact that i somehow broke the little ground strap between the starter and solenoid thing, i double checked my wiring, fixed it to look like marvin's and it fired right up. Thanks for all your help guys, and marvin, that picture helped TONS.

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  • Marvin
    replied
    AUTO TO MANUAL TRANSMISSION CONVERSION WIRING.

    Solder blue/white wire (reverse switch) and blue/white wire (original harness) together

    Solder (2) green/black wires, red/white?? wire (reverse switch), green/yellow wire together. This should start up the car and working reverse light.

    goodluck!!!


    Leave a comment:


  • BS87
    replied
    I honestly don't know what the fuck is wrong. The reverse lights are plugged into the connector (there is a connector after the big auto console plug that they fit right into) yet they wont work, and the green wires and the brown one for the hell of it, are connected. The thing just doesn't want to crank. Maybe i fucked up installing the starter somehow, but it would atleast attempt to crank, right?

    Also, i don't have a green/yellow wire, i have two green/black wires.

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  • Marvin
    replied
    Solder together the green/yellow and green/black wires
    this make it start.


    For the reverse lights, you will need to tap into the green/yellow wire
    to power up the reverse switch. And the blue/white wire together.

    Leave a comment:


  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Originally posted by BS87
    The two are for the reverse lights. The connector for those is already plugged in. That leaves 2 green wires and 1 brown wire. I had all three together at one point, no go :?
    Thats what I did, the 2 green and one brown.

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  • BS87
    replied
    The two are for the reverse lights. The connector for those is already plugged in. That leaves 2 green wires and 1 brown wire. I had all three together at one point, no go :?

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    I jumpered 3 wires. There were 5 wires in the loom IIRC, and 3 of them are the ones that did it.

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  • BS87
    replied
    This is really pissing me off. The thwo green wires are connected, i'm getting power to everything, the car will just not crank. The only thing i can think of, is that either i missed tightening a ground or something when re-installing my dash, or that little bracket that holds the auto dipstick is important somehow.

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  • BS87
    replied
    What wires did you guys jumper/connect? I've tried every combonation, even the supposedly "Correct" ones, and i'm getting power, it just fails to start.

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  • Marvin
    replied
    Originally posted by BS87
    Hey marvin, how did you hold the flywheel still while removing the torque converter bolts? Mine just spins, and when i hold it still with a 22mm wrench on the cranknut, i don't have enough leverage to break it free.
    Hey BS87,

    use a wrench to hold the crankshaft bolt so the flywheel wont spin, then u can go ahead use a "breaker bar" on your rachet (using a pipe to extend the rachet for better leverage)

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  • Marvin
    replied
    I ended up removing the slave cylinder in order to install the metal hose




    Bolted up the slave cylinder to the transmission.













    Installed the electrical connetors to the Back-up light switch




    Pic of the shift lever and shift rod




    Pic of the Driveshaft with vibration damper





    Here's a pic of the shift rod (using Z3 3.0 shift lever) hitting the vibration damper




    Removing the vibration damper by knocking out the (3)bolts















    Install the new flexible coupling using a new self-locking nuts. If the coupling has arrows on it, they should face the flange arms.




    Here's a pic of the shift rod (using Z3 3.0 shift rod) without the vibration damper.




    Install the bolts that hold the flexible coupling to the transmission output flange




    Install the bolts that hold the rear of the driveshaft section to the final drive









    Now for the shift mechanism




    Boot installed




    Pic of the back-up light harness connector





    Pic of the shifting assembly installed:)




    TO BE CONTINUED......

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  • Marvin
    replied
    Before installing the transmission, i went ahead and install the shift console





    I used a jack with a lot of padding to lift up the front of the engine. This gave me some extra room during the installation of the transmission.





    Sorry, i dont have any pics during the installing of the transmission. I didn't have any transmission jack and its kinda hard when your lifting the transmission and also take pics:)





    The transmission support mounting bolts





    I temporarily attached the support. I still need to bolt on the starter from the transmission





    Pic of the shift console installed






    Pic of the clutch pedal over-center helper spring and the spring guide





    Connect the hose to the master cylinder

































    Pic after installing the pedal assembly












    Pic after installing the brake pedal return spring










    TO BE CONTINUED......

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