UUC DSSR troubles.

[AnimalE30]

Hey guys,

Went to install my DSSR - first off, are you supposed to shave down the stock shifter delrine?


Also when I went to hook it up to the trans I couldn't see what it was, but what I felt was the same thing as the end of a shifter. Not the thing you see in all of UUCs pictures.

Also its very wide. I couldn't get a picture of it, but I did get a picture of the selector rod:

Heres the end that hooks to the trans:


Does the stock e30 trans have the same thing I described, or is it something aftermarket? From what I thought was the selector rod is the same length on both sides. I think the shifter that is in the car is aftermarket, its long and bent away from the trans.

From what I know about the car - it was a track rat the first 6 years of it's life so I'm guessing it was modded at some point.

[nando]

it should just push on, you don't need the yellow washers anymore

[AnimalE30]

it should just push on, you don't need the yellow washers anymore

You referring to the shifter or where the DSSR mounts to the tranny?

[nando]

both, it should fit tight.

[JGood]

Some e30's have different length 'pins' on the selector rod (not to mention there are two different overall length selector rods). This means there are at least 3 different selector rods, which are not interchangeable.


From Turners website:

This rod fits ONLY E30 325e or 325i models (325i, 325is, 325iC) (1984-1991) with 5 speed manual transmission. All cars require 1989-later selector rod joint (BMW p/n 25 11 7 503 525). We have these available along with the pin, bushing, and clip needed for the retrofit (+ $42.07).


This does not address the different length rods though, which I think was the pre-86 cars.

[AnimalE30]

Should have paid closer attention lol - so ill need this part?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0Rod%20Coupler

[JGood]

I don't know. You need to look at the part number of the joint that's on your car (realoem.com), and if it's not the one the Turner website says you need, then I would assume yes, you do need that. That won't fix your shift lever problem though.

[Dominic49]

Should have paid closer attention lol - so ill need this part?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0Rod%20Coupler

yes you need that. just call up uuc they are great people on the phone

[AnimalE30]

Dope, thanks guys.

[Rob@UUC]

Hey guys,

Went to install my DSSR - first off, are you supposed to shave down the stock shifter delrine?

What shifter is that you're using, Z4 or similar?

Yeah, I know it's "affordable". But there is a long list of reasons not to use an alternate-model BMW shifter, including the fact that later (mid '04+) shifters have an even worse lower pivot plastic liner... not only is it plastic, it's wider than standard E30 dimensions. This extra width contributes to even faster ovalization wear of the lower pivot bushing.

Genuine BMW shifters are really the shame of the car... these newer ones are built so cheaply and wear-prone, and even loose when brand new:



But to answer your question, that extra bit of bushing on both sides of that late shifter can be sanded down. A bit of mild sandpaper on a block will do it, that plastic is soft and gives up easily.

Also when I went to hook it up to the trans I couldn't see what it was, but what I felt was the same thing as the end of a shifter. Not the thing you see in all of UUCs pictures.

Also its very wide. I couldn't get a picture of it, but I did get a picture of the selector rod:

Heres the end that hooks to the trans:


Does the stock e30 trans have the same thing I described, or is it something aftermarket?

That's a standard early E30 selector joint width. As the ordering page for the E30 shifter says, you must use the later E30 joint (order from your local BMW dealer, about $30 or less). That unit would be the correct width to match the DSSR.

Why don't we just make the DSSR wider to accommodate the early selector joints? Simple; that would involve a piece of stainless steel double the size, and close to 3X as much machining... instead of $129, it would be closer to $250 for all that extra work. We think it makes more sense to spend $30 on a new joint instead.

Hope that helps clear things up!