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    1 piece vs 2 piece driveshafts

    Pros/Cons of each?

    Under what specific conditions is one better than the other?

    Thanks
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    #2
    Bump.

    I'm interested aswell.
    ///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)

    Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.

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      #3
      Wondering also. Ford Rangers used both at different times.
      Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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        #4
        Installing a one-piece would be difficult, no?
        Originally posted by Gruelius
        and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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          #5
          Try it, Give us feed back! Shouldn't be hard for a Drive shaft Welding and Balancing shop to do this. GL

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            #6
            A one-piece drive shaft eliminates the center support bearing and would increase the load on the differential input bearings and the transmission output bearings which could increase their wear rate.

            A two-piece is beneficial for off-roaders since the front shaft remains horizontal and the rear shaft is the one that runs the risk of hitting rocks

            There is more torsional deflection (twist) in a one-piece drive shaft. Out of two similarly spec'd shafts, the two-piece shaft can handle more torque. A one-piece drive shaft is more likely to hit its critical speed which causes it to fail catastrophically.

            Those are just the theoretical problems that you may encounter. You just might install a one-piece drive shaft on your car and have absolutely no issues.
            Last edited by Sagaris; 07-24-2011, 06:55 AM.

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              #7
              I have one in my V8 E30 in my sig.

              Downside is if I ever have to remove gearbox I will need to pull the diff out, or at least move it back, big deal. This is because of having a Toyota gearbox with a slip yoke and not a guido (I know its guibo, I call them guidos) and not being angle to compress the shaft like the E30 2pc.

              Sag, you mention a 2pc can handle more torque? I know of PLENTY of 1000hp+ cars running 1 pc.

              If they are
              1. made from a decent thickness and diameter
              2. built with decent unis
              3. with pinion angle sorted
              4. balanced
              failure is not likely.

              In my experience i have had more probs putting decent power through 2pc, why i went 1pc in that car.

              I saw it as having less issues as the gearbox to diff angle doesnt change like it does in cars with live axle rear ends.

              Just my opinion and no dramas at all with mine.
              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.


              Originally posted by der affe
              first try a finger or 2, you need to have them suck on it first and get it nice and wet to help it slip in.

              if she goes for that, astroglide up your pole, have her lay on her stomach and slip it in slowly and bury it to your balls and leave it there until she relaxes. once she is used to it slam that ass like a screen door.

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                #8
                one piece drive shaft is better. less parts, less joints means less weight. It wont make your diff wear faster. they work well and are usually very strong.

                Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
                Ig:ryno_pzk
                I like the tuna here.
                Originally posted by lambo
                Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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                  #9
                  you could have an aluminum one made a feel a huge improvment..mustang guys do it all the time.
                  sigpic

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by DTM190 View Post
                    Sag, you mention a 2pc can handle more torque? I know of PLENTY of 1000hp+ cars running 1 pc.
                    .
                    yes a 2 piece drive shaft can handle more torque than a 1 piece shaft of the same diameter, wall thickness, and material. I made the statement for comparison purposes.

                    I myself am a fan of a lightweight single piece shaft but I haven't run the calculations to see what would fit, if it would vibrate itself to pieces, and how much weight savings there would be
                    Last edited by Sagaris; 07-24-2011, 02:09 PM.

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                      #11
                      For a given length driveshaft, a 2 piece one can be much smaller in diameter and still have a high enough critical speed.
                      Lorin


                      Originally posted by slammin.e28
                      The M30 is God's engine.

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                        #12
                        My RX7 turbo 88 and 93 Twin turbo both had 1 piece Driveshafts; Mazda OEM.
                        I did a manual transmission replacement on my Rx7 Vert once, did not have to remove the diff.

                        1 piece driveshaft never had any failures or nvh or etc..... why? OEM.
                        even the rotary engine was pretty damm reliable. why? It loved me.

                        All nissan 350z's have Carbon fiber/plastic reinforced 1 piece driveshafts. Nissan OEM 1 piece Carbon fiber / plastic Driveshaft; standard spec on every 350z.

                        None of my Z friends have broken or had issues with one of those. The rest of the Z and VQ35 however......


                        In my 2 piece driveshaft experience:

                        Subaru: killed 1 centre bearing.
                        Toyota: Killed one Guibo. those buggers cost like 2x as much as the BMW units.
                        Bmw: killed 2 center bearings, 4 guibos to smithereens.

                        in 3 years of 1 piece driveshaft ownership I had 0 driveshaft issues.

                        these are all OEM applications though, if aftermarket who knows!!
                        OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                        Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                        Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                          #13
                          I'm looking at getting a 1 piece from the drive shaft shop(which happens to be local to me). Aluminum guibo replacement, larger replaceable U joints. Don't have to worry about a failing guibo or csb. All in all I think its worth it.
                          I don't always wreck cars, but when I do I wreck them into trees.

                          91' 318is S50 swap - The Black Widow

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                            #14
                            Every time I drop my heatshield, I see a torn to shit CSB surround.

                            So screw the CSB. if you think there's more wobble on a one piece, how much wobble is there on an unsupported 2 piece? no thank you.

                            I'm gonna do this:


                            unless someone screams "NO! not that brand!"

                            Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

                            Originally posted by Top Gear
                            Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

                            Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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