The Official Transmission Thread

[captain confused]

sorry to bring up an old thread but i wanted to make note of correction on the OPs post and this is the official trans thread. The M3 shifter bracket that is mentioned to convert an early to a later style shifter mechanism is wrong. You cannot use that bracket. The bolt holes on the trans and the bracket do not line up at all. It probably could be done if someone welded up an additional bracket, but as a straight bolt up piece, it wont work.

[Sea Aych]

I would just like to add some information about the transmissions and figured this would be a good place to do it.

The "straight selector rod" (10) and "shift rod joint" (13) for the late G260 transmissions are different between <88 and 89<. My car is a 1990 325is Auto (production date 10/89) and I have a G260...1346.91 code on the side from a car with production date 12/88. The straight selector rod that came with the transmission has the arm that connects to the shift rod joint and eventually the transmission which is longer than the arm that connects the shifter to the whole system. I bought a replacement arm for the model year of my car (and not the one which the tranny came with) and it was incorrect.

To tack some more information on here:

If you've got that "early late" linkage, and a 1376 code on the side of the trans, you'll likely also have the boss for the crank sensors on the side of the bellhousing, as I did. They may or may not be drilled. This doesn't mean it's an ETA trans, just an "early late model 325i" trans. You'll then also have the straight selector rod as benyen has said

Just adding this because it confused the hell out of me when I was trying to figure out what was going on with my 5spd swap.

[superj]

It was on my 89 325i. I could do some of the work from above (through shifter area) and some from under the car

[vtechnik]

Alright, thanks for the help. From what I hear the shifter linkage is pretty easy to get to once the tranny is in the car anyway

[superj]

I think the shift linkage is just recommended because not all trans will take the newer style shift plate, from what I have read.

I have a few 86/87 325e and I am going to swap one from auto to stick but its same year cars so my swap won't really have any good info for you

the other stuff I don't know.

[vtechnik]

Sorry if I'm about to beat a dead horse but I need to clarify before attempting a swap because my e30 is my daily driver and I want to make sure everything goes smooth over the weekend of the swap.

So, i have a 1988 325iS. I am going to buy a 1987 325e that is manual. If I take everything from the 325e from the flywheel to the driveline, the only things I need to be concerned about is:

- late model csb
- Use the dual mass flywheel and stock throwout bearing
- 325i clutch
- 325i shifter linkage
- leave the cps sensor in but just don't wire it up obviously
- 325e manual driveshaft
- stock 325e guibos

My questions would be:
1. Do i have my info on the dm flywheel and stock tob right?
2. Do I absolutely need to have 325i shifter linkage to drive around or is it recomended?
3. And a stupid question: can i put the manual pedal box in while the car is still auto? I hear the pedal box is one of the harder parts to do and I'd rather get it out of the way while the car is still driveable.

Any help is much appreciated, if anyone has done this exact late eta to late i manual swap please let me know. Hopefully its pretty straight forward.

[TobyB]

The 323 only adds about 3/8" or so, if I recall.

So if the DM stack is 3/8" or so thicker, then you can safely run the 323- and it'd
be good insurance.

Measure. That's really the only way to know about this stuff, because
things get swapped around. I found a Gripforce where I expected dual mass, for example...

t

[danielpak_ek9]

hi guys. I have a 1987 eta trans with the 6 1/2" bell housing depth to slave mount (i measured it), but it has a dual mass flywheel. I am converting it to a single mass and the single mass clutch/flywheel assembly is thinner than the original dual mass clutch/flywheel assembly. Do i still need the 323i throwout bearing, even though i have the shallow bell housing?

I am wondering this as well^^^ I have the late eta trans build date 87 with a dual mass setup originally and i am putting it on a m20b25 will i need a 323i TOB even with a 6.5in shallow bell housing??

[etagolnik]

hi guys. I have a 1987 eta trans with the 6 1/2" bell housing depth to slave mount (i measured it), but it has a dual mass flywheel. I am converting it to a single mass and the single mass clutch/flywheel assembly is thinner than the original dual mass clutch/flywheel assembly. Do i still need the 323i throwout bearing, even though i have the shallow bell housing?

[jw 325ic]

Sorry guys, its been a while since I've checked this thread. I'm sure you guys are already up and running but here are my responses:

I got an 87' 325e 5spd I'm trying to put into my 1987 325i. I have the late eta trans.

therefore i have to get the euro 323i throwout bearing, plug the crank sensors, and use the dual mass flywheel? Do i have that right?

The point of the euro 323i TOB is to make up the length with the regular flywheel and a deep bellhousing transmission. If you get a dual mass, your stock short TOB will work with a deep bellhousing transmission. Not really sure how it would work with a short bellhousing and dual mass, it may just make the clutch catch at a higher point on the pedal.

What I got from the first post is, in my situation if I wanted to do a 5spd swap for my 86 eta, the best and least complicated swap would be using an early eta tranny?

late eta and i tranny would require much more modifications beyond the bolts for the late style shift arms correct?

Depends on what month your 86 was built in. Really, it depends on the flywheel, whether you have dual mass or single.

random question and dont want to make a useless thread so ill ask here.
does a eta clutch work on a 325i motor?
the trans is from 86 eta that will be mated to a 90 325is motor.

I think the clutch should work if you're using the original flywheel too. I'm not sure on eta to i clutch differences. Someone else should chime in...

i have a 1346.90 tranny on my m42 turbo car and its having issues disengaging. it only seems to happen going from 5th to 4th. new slave cyl. and bled the clutch. still happening. a syncro doesnt make sense because this is the second tranny that has done this. any idea on what this could be? please help.. im getting so discouraged and need to drive the car from wy to ca in a week.


EDIT: Would you believe me if i told you bending the linkage about 4 degrees fixed this?

This sounds like its the tranny or motor mounts failing on the passenger side.

going to bump this up because i bought a sachs clutch kit for a 325i for a 90 is motor.
my dilemma is that i have a e trans that came out a 1986 es, so can i use the e trans with the e throw out bearing with a i flywheel? . my car used to have the dual mass if that makes a difference. any suggestions?

Check the #3 of each transmission to see the measurements in the 1st post. This will tell you whether the throw out bearing will work or not.

Bumping this thread for a second opinion. Here's my setup:

1986 325e Bottom End
1988 325iX Head
Single Mass - Lightened and Balanced Flywheel
The Transmission being used is the one original to the car.-"Late" 5sp
- The engine that was mated to this transmission was fitted with a Dual Mass FW, and the build dates lead me to believe it's a "Late/Deep" Eta trans. (Build date is 4/87) - Correct me if i'm wrong. I will verify after seperating the Engine and Trans.
I installed a 88 325iS Clutch Kit into the car. Sachs. Came with Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and Throw Out Bearing.

- The car WILL NOT go into gear with the it running and the pedal pushed down to the floor. I'm sure my problem is the 325i Throwout bearing in the Late/Deep Eta Transmission. I'm at work and I have a 323i TOB ready to come home with me. Just wanted to make sure i'm on the right track. I've bled the crap out of the slave with no luck at all. I get firm pedal but only after you've pushed the pedal down about half way and at that point it's a weird kind of stiff.

Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated and thanks to the OP for putting all this info into one thread. Very useful for me. Hoping to get this car driving before the Picnic!

Thanks for your time.

Sounds like the throw out bearing!

I just bought a trans and parts. I am sure glad I ran into this thread before starting the swap. but, as It had answered questions, it creates more questions. I am Confused about The shifter rod compatibility, and cannot seem to find any info pertaining to this. I have an automatic 87 i car. just picked up an 87 eta trans. On realoem.com, the part #s for the selector rod AND the Shift rod are different between the 325i and 325e. I cannot find any information that tells me the difference between the shift rods (not the selector rod, but the larger, Aluminum rod that actually holds the shifter lever to the trans and car body). Will I need to purchase the shift rod that is meant for my 325is? or can I keep the shift rod that came with the 87eta transmission?

Also note (slightly off topic at this point), I will be putting in a z3 shifter in, if this affects this question at all.

Should I buy an "i" shifter rod and/or selector rod with related parts? or can I keep the eta shift rod and selector rod, and just buy new bushings and related wear parts for the eta car(doner trans)?

thank you to the OP, all who have contributed to this article, and to anyone who may further contribute and/or answer my question.

Sounds like you will need the aluminum plate to hold the shifter for the earlier stick cars. I'm not positive, but that's what it seems. Make sure you measure the bell housing and if its the deeper of the length, get the euro throw out bearing.

[wakeboardr42393]

sticky!

[wakeboardr42393]

I just bought a trans and parts. I am sure glad I ran into this thread before starting the swap. but, as It had answered questions, it creates more questions. I am Confused about The shifter rod compatibility, and cannot seem to find any info pertaining to this. I have an automatic 87 i car. just picked up an 87 eta trans. On realoem.com, the part #s for the selector rod AND the Shift rod are different between the 325i and 325e. I cannot find any information that tells me the difference between the shift rods (not the selector rod, but the larger, Aluminum rod that actually holds the shifter lever to the trans and car body). Will I need to purchase the shift rod that is meant for my 325is? or can I keep the shift rod that came with the 87eta transmission?

Also note (slightly off topic at this point), I will be putting in a z3 shifter in, if this affects this question at all.

Should I buy an "i" shifter rod and/or selector rod with related parts? or can I keep the eta shift rod and selector rod, and just buy new bushings and related wear parts for the eta car(doner trans)?

thank you to the OP, all who have contributed to this article, and to anyone who may further contribute and/or answer my question.

[wakeboardr42393]

going to bump this up because i bought a sachs clutch kit for a 325i for a 90 is motor.
my dilemma is that i have a e trans that came out a 1986 es, so can i use the e trans with the e throw out bearing with a i flywheel? . my car used to have the dual mass if that makes a difference. any suggestions?

Bumping this thread for a second opinion. Here's my setup:

1986 325e Bottom End
1988 325iX Head
Single Mass - Lightened and Balanced Flywheel
The Transmission being used is the one original to the car.-"Late" 5sp
- The engine that was mated to this transmission was fitted with a Dual Mass FW, and the build dates lead me to believe it's a "Late/Deep" Eta trans. (Build date is 4/87) - Correct me if i'm wrong. I will verify after seperating the Engine and Trans.
I installed a 88 325iS Clutch Kit into the car. Sachs. Came with Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and Throw Out Bearing.

- The car WILL NOT go into gear with the it running and the pedal pushed down to the floor. I'm sure my problem is the 325i Throwout bearing in the Late/Deep Eta Transmission. I'm at work and I have a 323i TOB ready to come home with me. Just wanted to make sure i'm on the right track. I've bled the crap out of the slave with no luck at all. I get firm pedal but only after you've pushed the pedal down about half way and at that point it's a weird kind of stiff.

Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated and thanks to the OP for putting all this info into one thread. Very useful for me. Hoping to get this car driving before the Picnic!

Thanks for your time.

If I am correctly reading this thread, and am correctly understanding the information the OP and others give:
both of you have the late ETA deep trans, which originally came with the (thicker than single mass) dual mass flywheel. The only reason this late eta trans had a deeper bellhousing was to accommodate for the thicker(deeper) flywheel.

that being said, if you use a thinner(less deep), single mass flywheel with the (deeper) late eta trans, the thin single mass flywheel would leave a gap where the thicker dual-mass would have been, due to the dual mass being thicker. single mass=thinner. dual mass=thicker.

so, with the double mass flywheel in the late eta trans, you should be able to run the regular throwout bearing for that trans. for the single mass flywheel in the late eta trans, you will need the aforementioned "special" deeper throwout bearing to fill the gap left by the lack of the thicker, dual-clutch flywheel.

I hope this answers both of your questions.

[kid325e]

Bumping this thread for a second opinion. Here's my setup:

1986 325e Bottom End
1988 325iX Head
Single Mass - Lightened and Balanced Flywheel
The Transmission being used is the one original to the car.-"Late" 5sp
- The engine that was mated to this transmission was fitted with a Dual Mass FW, and the build dates lead me to believe it's a "Late/Deep" Eta trans. (Build date is 4/87) - Correct me if i'm wrong. I will verify after seperating the Engine and Trans.
I installed a 88 325iS Clutch Kit into the car. Sachs. Came with Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and Throw Out Bearing.

- The car WILL NOT go into gear with the it running and the pedal pushed down to the floor. I'm sure my problem is the 325i Throwout bearing in the Late/Deep Eta Transmission. I'm at work and I have a 323i TOB ready to come home with me. Just wanted to make sure i'm on the right track. I've bled the crap out of the slave with no luck at all. I get firm pedal but only after you've pushed the pedal down about half way and at that point it's a weird kind of stiff.

Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated and thanks to the OP for putting all this info into one thread. Very useful for me. Hoping to get this car driving before the Picnic!

Thanks for your time.

[efficient]

going to bump this up because i bought a sachs clutch kit for a 325i for a 90 is motor.
my dilemma is that i have a e trans that came out a 1986 es, so can i use the e trans with the e throw out bearing with a i flywheel? . my car used to have the dual mass if that makes a difference. any suggestions?