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you need to use a press, you will also have to get the exhaust out of the way. If you don't pull your exhaust frequently spray the fasteners with PB blaster otherwise you may have some more stuff to repair. The Center support may be bad however if you have been on it any at all you most likely need a DS. GL
Just did mine for the first time, the hardest part was getting the new one onto the driveshaft. Make sure you get all the parts needed. You will need the new CSB, backing plate, cir-clip, and maybe a new cover plate. Also, while you're down there it may be a good time to replace your guibo.
My center support bearing went bad in my 91 318i. Are these hard to replace?
No way man, it's quite easy. Can be a PITA at times, but you don't need any specialty tools.
1) Jack the car up
2) Remove oxygen sensor from exhaust
3) Jack up motor 1-2 inches at A/C bracket (gives you clearance for exhaust removal so you don't need to undo front swaybar)
4) Remove exhaust at down-tubes (3 14mm nuts per pipe)
5) Let exhaust hang on front sway while you unbolt the hangers on the transmission and muffler
6) Remove exhaust
7) Remove heatshield just in front of the differential
8 ) Remove larger heatshield just in front of previous heat shield
9) Put car in gear and pull e-brake
10) Plumber's wrench on driveshaft nut (if you're underneath the car with your feet pointing towards the rear, the nut is lefty-loosey)
11) Unbolt driveshaft at differential (4 nuts)
12) Pry (or find another way) between the rear subframe and a driveshaft stud to collapse (shorten) the driveshaft
13) While supporting the dangling end of the driveshaft, unbolt the center support bearing (2 14mm bolts)
14) Unbolt driveshaft from output shaft of the transmission
15) Remove driveshaft from car
16) Pull the two halves of the driveshaft apart (MAKE SURE you mark the two halves so you know how to align them properly when you're reassembling the driveshaft)
17) Remove and replace the center support bearing (look for the snap-ring against the bearing race)
There's a lot of things to unbolt and remember, but nothing you can't handle.
In almost all cases a failure of the CSB will be caused by bad/binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Unless both the drive shaft and CSB are replaced at the same time, the new CSB will probably have a short life.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
In almost all cases a failure of the CSB will be caused by bad/binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Unless both the drive shaft and CSB are replaced at the same time, the new CSB will probably have a short life.
True Story
Originally posted by blunttech
r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you
you need to use a press, you will also have to get the exhaust out of the way. If you don't pull your exhaust frequently spray the fasteners with PB blaster otherwise you may have some more stuff to repair. The Center support may be bad however if you have been on it any at all you most likely need a DS. GL
In almost all cases a failure of the CSB will be caused by bad/binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Unless both the drive shaft and CSB are replaced at the same time, the new CSB will probably have a short life.
U may want to look for a new DS.
If you do buy a new one (DS) get one that has rebuildable u joints. I think the last one I bought was like $350 but its been like 10years tho.
If u insist on just replacing the CSB you can pull the DS and take it out to somewhere like NAPA (with machine shop). They can press the old one off and put the new one on for like $10-$15 bucks.
Job is pretty simple all in all. Just make sure you mark DS before separating and PUT THE CSB ON THE CORRECT WAY.
I put my CSB on backwards after triple-checking it was right, ended up destroying the race trying to remove it backwards and had to buy a another CSB 7__7
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