5-speed swap

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  • speedhop
    E30 Mastermind
    • Aug 2006
    • 1509

    #1

    5-speed swap

    I would like to know how much you spent on a swap.
    How much should I be paying for swap if I were to have a shop do it?
    How many hours of work should it be?

    Thanks!
    www.ryanwhopkins.com
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    The parts for the swap could run as much as $1200, depending on what deals you find and how many new parts you use. At the minimum I'd say to use new shifter bushings, clutch master, slave, clutch, all seals (main, trany input/output, and shifter rod), CSB, and transmission mounts. Labor will run 6-10 hours.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

    • speedhop
      E30 Mastermind
      • Aug 2006
      • 1509

      #3
      1200 labor + parts...or just parts?

      I'm thinking/hoping I can score parts for better tan 1200...i guess not including fw and clutch...
      www.ryanwhopkins.com

      Comment

      • jlevie
        R3V OG
        • Nov 2006
        • 13530

        #4
        As much as $1200 just for parts. If you can find a good deal on a used transmission, driveshaft and flywheel that cost will come down.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment

        • fwappy
          Grease Monkey
          • Feb 2007
          • 362

          #5
          OK, I'm hijacking this thread with a question since I'm currently doing the swap.

          I'm switching out the pedal bracket and pedal assembly because the old bracket doesn't have the rest for the clutch spring. I've gotten all of the nuts and bolts out except for the topmost 2 that are kind of up under the steering column toward the driver. I have tried every kind of angled wrench and whatnot to no avail, I just can't get them to start turning without stripping the hex worse.

          I noticed that the steering assembly is only left connected by two pivot bolts on either side, so if I removed the whole assembly, it would make everything so much easier, especially getting the whole unit out/in. However, the square nuts on the back of the pivot bolts are welded to the bracket, and the top of the bolt is conical with no place for a tool!!! WTF?? How do I remove the steering assembly?

          I swear to God, this is the last time I'm ever doing this.

          "If I were filthy rich I'd still drive my E30."

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            A ratchet, extension, and flex joint should do the trick on the two top bolts.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

            • fwappy
              Grease Monkey
              • Feb 2007
              • 362

              #7
              Originally posted by jlevie
              A ratchet, extension, and flex joint should do the trick on the two top bolts.
              You've obviously never tried this before.

              "If I were filthy rich I'd still drive my E30."

              Comment

              • nando
                Moderator
                • Nov 2003
                • 34827

                #8
                they are sheer bolts - they aren't meant to be removed.

                best thing to do is leave the pedal box alone, and swap the pedals themselves. you can hang that spring just about anywhere.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment

                • jlevie
                  R3V OG
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 13530

                  #9
                  Originally posted by fwappy
                  You've obviously never tried this before.
                  Actually, I've done it several times...

                  It is pretty easy on a non-airbag car, but not terribly difficult on later production with an air bag.
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                  Comment

                  • fwappy
                    Grease Monkey
                    • Feb 2007
                    • 362

                    #10
                    So if I leave the pedal bracket in the car, where do I rest the spring? I don't want it to move.

                    "If I were filthy rich I'd still drive my E30."

                    Comment

                    • fwappy
                      Grease Monkey
                      • Feb 2007
                      • 362

                      #11
                      So, I got the bolts out!!! Ok, now how do I get the bracket out?? It doesn't seem to want to slip around the brake booster boot, or whatever it's called. Do I need to unbolt the booster from the firewall? If so, are the correct nuts on the inside or engine bay side?

                      Thanks, sorry this is just getting ridiculous at this stage of the swap.

                      "If I were filthy rich I'd still drive my E30."

                      Comment

                      • 92 mtechnic cabrio
                        Honesty is not the best policy!
                        • Dec 2003
                        • 4907

                        #12
                        Originally posted by fwappy
                        So, I got the bolts out!!! Ok, now how do I get the bracket out?? It doesn't seem to want to slip around the brake booster boot, or whatever it's called. Do I need to unbolt the booster from the firewall? If so, are the correct nuts on the inside or engine bay side?

                        Thanks, sorry this is just getting ridiculous at this stage of the swap.
                        I don't recall having to do anything with teh brake booster to get the pedal box out. for the two sheer bolts you removed, they were anti-theft bolts back in the day, so people can't just remove those two bolts, bring down teh steering column and hot wire your car. they sell the same bolts at the dealer for not too much, like $2.50 a piece or something, they come with proper bolt heads, and when you torque them down to spec, the heads snap off and all you've left is a conical head again.
                        R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(

                        Comment

                        • fwappy
                          Grease Monkey
                          • Feb 2007
                          • 362

                          #13
                          Originally posted by 92 mtechnic cabrio
                          I don't recall having to do anything with teh brake booster to get the pedal box out.
                          There's a compression cylinder covered by a boot sticking through the big hole in the pedal bracket. I don't see any way to remove the bracket without pulling that cylinder back out into the engine bay. Unless it comes of from the cabin side, but I don't see any way to do that.

                          This is the one thing that is holding up my swap. Dammit! :x

                          "If I were filthy rich I'd still drive my E30."

                          Comment

                          • StereoInstaller1
                            GAS
                            • Jul 2004
                            • 22679

                            #14
                            You can cut a slot in those bolts using a cut off wheel, then unscrew them.

                            GL!
                            Luke

                            Closing SOON!
                            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                            Comment

                            • 92 mtechnic cabrio
                              Honesty is not the best policy!
                              • Dec 2003
                              • 4907

                              #15
                              Originally posted by fwappy
                              There's a compression cylinder covered by a boot sticking through the big hole in the pedal bracket. I don't see any way to remove the bracket without pulling that cylinder back out into the engine bay. Unless it comes of from the cabin side, but I don't see any way to do that.

                              This is the one thing that is holding up my swap. Dammit! :x
                              I know the black boot comes off, and you will need to disconnect the brake booster from the brake pedal arm. But you do not need to remove the brake booster itself. I remember trying to remove the pedal box and it getting caught on it too. In a fit of frustration I just threw the box around and tugged and pulled and pushed as crazy as I could and it just fell out eventually.
                              R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(

                              Comment

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