5-speed swap

[speedhop]

I would like to know how much you spent on a swap.
How much should I be paying for swap if I were to have a shop do it?
How many hours of work should it be?

Thanks!

[jlevie]

The parts for the swap could run as much as $1200, depending on what deals you find and how many new parts you use. At the minimum I'd say to use new shifter bushings, clutch master, slave, clutch, all seals (main, trany input/output, and shifter rod), CSB, and transmission mounts. Labor will run 6-10 hours.

[speedhop]

1200 labor + parts...or just parts?

I'm thinking/hoping I can score parts for better tan 1200...i guess not including fw and clutch...

[jlevie]

As much as $1200 just for parts. If you can find a good deal on a used transmission, driveshaft and flywheel that cost will come down.

[fwappy]

OK, I'm hijacking this thread with a question since I'm currently doing the swap.

I'm switching out the pedal bracket and pedal assembly because the old bracket doesn't have the rest for the clutch spring. I've gotten all of the nuts and bolts out except for the topmost 2 that are kind of up under the steering column toward the driver. I have tried every kind of angled wrench and whatnot to no avail, I just can't get them to start turning without stripping the hex worse.

I noticed that the steering assembly is only left connected by two pivot bolts on either side, so if I removed the whole assembly, it would make everything so much easier, especially getting the whole unit out/in. However, the square nuts on the back of the pivot bolts are welded to the bracket, and the top of the bolt is conical with no place for a tool!!! WTF?? How do I remove the steering assembly?

I swear to God, this is the last time I'm ever doing this.

[jlevie]

A ratchet, extension, and flex joint should do the trick on the two top bolts.

[fwappy]

A ratchet, extension, and flex joint should do the trick on the two top bolts.

You've obviously never tried this before.

[nando]

they are sheer bolts - they aren't meant to be removed.

best thing to do is leave the pedal box alone, and swap the pedals themselves. you can hang that spring just about anywhere.

[jlevie]

You've obviously never tried this before.

Actually, I've done it several times...

It is pretty easy on a non-airbag car, but not terribly difficult on later production with an air bag.

[fwappy]

So if I leave the pedal bracket in the car, where do I rest the spring? I don't want it to move.

[fwappy]

So, I got the bolts out!!! Ok, now how do I get the bracket out?? It doesn't seem to want to slip around the brake booster boot, or whatever it's called. Do I need to unbolt the booster from the firewall? If so, are the correct nuts on the inside or engine bay side?

Thanks, sorry this is just getting ridiculous at this stage of the swap.

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

So, I got the bolts out!!! Ok, now how do I get the bracket out?? It doesn't seem to want to slip around the brake booster boot, or whatever it's called. Do I need to unbolt the booster from the firewall? If so, are the correct nuts on the inside or engine bay side?

Thanks, sorry this is just getting ridiculous at this stage of the swap.

I don't recall having to do anything with teh brake booster to get the pedal box out. for the two sheer bolts you removed, they were anti-theft bolts back in the day, so people can't just remove those two bolts, bring down teh steering column and hot wire your car. they sell the same bolts at the dealer for not too much, like $2.50 a piece or something, they come with proper bolt heads, and when you torque them down to spec, the heads snap off and all you've left is a conical head again.

[fwappy]

I don't recall having to do anything with teh brake booster to get the pedal box out.

There's a compression cylinder covered by a boot sticking through the big hole in the pedal bracket. I don't see any way to remove the bracket without pulling that cylinder back out into the engine bay. Unless it comes of from the cabin side, but I don't see any way to do that.

This is the one thing that is holding up my swap. Dammit! :x

[StereoInstaller1]

You can cut a slot in those bolts using a cut off wheel, then unscrew them.

GL!
Luke

[92 mtechnic cabrio]

There's a compression cylinder covered by a boot sticking through the big hole in the pedal bracket. I don't see any way to remove the bracket without pulling that cylinder back out into the engine bay. Unless it comes of from the cabin side, but I don't see any way to do that.

This is the one thing that is holding up my swap. Dammit! :x

I know the black boot comes off, and you will need to disconnect the brake booster from the brake pedal arm. But you do not need to remove the brake booster itself. I remember trying to remove the pedal box and it getting caught on it too. In a fit of frustration I just threw the box around and tugged and pulled and pushed as crazy as I could and it just fell out eventually.