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325 SETA Solid Flywheel Conversion -> No start + Grinding

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    325 SETA Solid Flywheel Conversion -> No start + Grinding

    Hello Everyone, new to the forums and am in deep need of help.

    I recently pulled my transmission out and installed a Valeo Flywheel Conversion Kit (Valeo 52281208 Solid Flywheel Conversion Kit) for my 10/87 325 SETA. shortly after I buttoned everything up, I tried to crank the car and heard a terrible grinding noise, and the car will not start.

    I Inferred that I installed the starter wrong. Took it off, and even replaced the starter completely to be sure. When finished, I get the same terrible grinding noise, and no start.

    With this, I have a few questions on how to move forward, and have seen mixed responses in past forums and different sellers of this Flywheel kit (Amazon, FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, etc...) and would love clarification to save me from my stupidity.

    1. Does the 10/87 325 SETA need the Timing sensor slug/notch/mark for its Flywheel? (If so, I installed this without paying mind of that, as this conversion kit does not have it and i'm hoping that is the reasoning of the no start.)

    2. I see this kit (Valeo 52281208) being stated that it IS meant to fit my 10/87 325 SETA, and also stated that it isn't in some reviews (FPC Euro catalog states yes, Some Amazon reviews state no, etc..)
    I have also seen around that differences may exist with some flywheels teeth, and maybe the flywheel provided is the incorrect teeth for my model and thats whats making the terrible noise? (teeth length, numbering, etc?)

    Any help is appreciated. I may just have to remove the Transmission again and inspect further into the Conversion kit to make sure everything is as it should be + look into a proper single mass flywheel conversion?

    Any tips on how to complete this solid flywheel conversion/ What flywheel works for this conversion?

    Attached some photos of my previous dual mass flywheel for reference, as well as the Valeo flywheel kit install papers:

    On the highlighted part of the install paper:
    "1. 6 pins for ignition timing pickup are in identical position
    2. The crankshaft locking pin hole for the timing tool locking pin has the correct required position."

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    Attached Files
    Last edited by jeremyeatsbeets; 06-26-2020, 09:58 PM.

    #2
    Do you have two sensors on the transmission bell housing down by the clutch slave cylinder? If so, one looks for that reference tab and one counts the teeth.
    2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

    Comment


      #3
      If it's a seta, then there will be one sensor at the front of the crank.

      Two things are telling me you have the wrong clutch kit. One, the holes explained in the instructions is for an e36 - those holes are for timing the VANOS. Two, the e36 has a smaller ring gear (same with m42). So the starter will grind.

      If you do in fact have a single crank sensor (toothed wheel on the crank hub), then all you have to do is swap your starter from an e36, or m42. If you have the two crank sensors in the bell housing, then you will need to change back to a FW with the cylinder reference pin.

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...nce-pin-broken

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      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by tomstin View Post
        Do you have two sensors on the transmission bell housing down by the clutch slave cylinder? If so, one looks for that reference tab and one counts the teeth.
        I can confirm I do not have two sensors on the bell housing by the clutch slave cylinder. So thats good news in a sense?


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        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          If it's a seta, then there will be one sensor at the front of the crank.

          Two things are telling me you have the wrong clutch kit. One, the holes explained in the instructions is for an e36 - those holes are for timing the VANOS. Two, the e36 has a smaller ring gear (same with m42). So the starter will grind.

          If you do in fact have a single crank sensor (toothed wheel on the crank hub), then all you have to do is swap your starter from an e36, or m42. If you have the two crank sensors in the bell housing, then you will need to change back to a FW with the cylinder reference pin.

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...nce-pin-broken

          Click image for larger version Name:	flywheel_manual_ref_pin_text-300x242.jpg Views:	0 Size:	20.8 KB ID:	9935486

          Seeing now that I do have a single crank sensor. It looks like I somewhat lucked out for only having to swap the starter to be compatible with the flywheel swap then.

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          In regards to the e36 starter:
          Is there a specific e36 starter I should go with? (Later model/ early model starter?)

          In looking at which specific e36 is compatible with the flywheel kit: it states an e36 325i is one of them.

          Thus, search for an early model e36 325i starter, correct?

          Thank you for all the help and input!

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