The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

[JGood]

has anyone figured out what oem linkage works with the 5 speed set up. I heard the e36 328 is set works, but have not been able to conform it.

None that I could find, but it will depend where your engine is positioned. Just cut and weld whatever you have available.

[Old city bimmer]

The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

has anyone figured out what oem linkage works with the 5 speed set up. I heard the e36 328is set works, but have not been able to conform it.

[The Dark Side of Will]

2002 Remote Brake Reservoir adaptation

I saw this in the project forum and figured it would be useful.

you'd think with how much lube Ive needed with this car, I would have a dispenser in the glovebox.

So, the next step in the "I swear Mom its a good car," this brings us to the brakes. I used an iX booster and master with my swap and I love the brakes. Total OEM feel, nothing funny. well, there is that one thing though. The reservoir on the master and the VAC intake boot wanted to somewhat occupy the same space. Didnt seem like a big deal, I already had the 2002 reservoir, new blue BMW cloth hose and the little nipples. The FAQ sections never seemed to mention that the nipples needed a tighter hole (dont we all need a tighter hole?). So, as most of my projects go, the parts collected dust, I had a plan, I just didnt have time. Andrew over at Ireland Engineering had the right part, but I hadnt had a chance to get out there. Long story short, I finally got the parts I needed to finish the job.

This isnt good...


mmmm tight holes, next to a loose and abused one




and then, as usual I hit a wall. Not literally though. I bought a fancy power bleeder about 3, maybe 4 years ago and used it once. Cleaned the dust off of it, and then... saw that the pump was broken. Hopefully I can get just the pump replaced otherwise this is all garbage.


Then the next hurdle was the nipples. (this update is DIRTY!!) The nipples on the brake calipers are 7mm in size. My flare wrench set I bought only goes down to 8 and my box ends go from 8 -> 6.

Luckily the brakes had been flushed within the last two months so they arent horrible, but obviously Id like to fix this ASAP. I am planning on tracking the car in about two weeks, then driving it up to Washington, driving it on the Maryhill Loops road, spending a week in Seattle for a pair of weddings , then driving it back down. Im sure I will need solid brakes at least one time in this next month.

and the adventure continues....

Here are the part #s to get the 2002 remote resevoir setup
(1)- 21521163714 = Blue Cloth Hose
(1)- 34321112388 = 2002 Brake Fluid Resevoir
(2)- 34321102282 = Angula Pipe

total was $65 + shipping

I dont have a part # for the rubber pieces though as Andrew from Ireland Engineering got them for me

It was good to meet you on Saturday! The grommet part number is 34 31 1 121 911.

[Aleksey]

Have any of you guys fit a super charger into M60B40 powered E30? PITA?

If I have 540I/6, direct drive train swap into E30 should be relatively easy right? Anybody has a rough estimate (time wise) on the whole project?

I'm debating on getting a clean E30 and swapping everything from E34 into it instead of painting E34.. should be same $$$.

[Jack89i]

Just want to make sure before ordering, I will need the e34 shifter assembly for my zf310 to work in my e30 right?


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[The Dark Side of Will]

With the engine running. It's a 3.5 bar FPR.

If the engine's idling with 15-20 inches of manifold vacuum, then it has 5-7 psi absolute inside the manifold. A correctly functioning manifold referenced regulator will then show 41 to 43 psi on the gauge.

Yes, 28 is low, but he won't see 51 on the gauge unless the engine's not running or it's at WOT.

[Vtec?lol]

Quick question.

I ordered an m60 engine harness from ebay. Seller says it came from an early 740i but wasn't sure of the year.

It came in the mail today and what do you know, it doesn't have the connector for my x20 on the passenger side.

Has anyone gotten these e38 harnesses to work?

[LoneWolf]

I've got the 6-speed transmission so I am going to have to get the front half of my driveshaft modified, shortened and the different flange added.

What cars should I be looking for to take the driveshaft from for that front flange? anything other than 740i or 540i?

[JGood]

With the engine running. It's a 3.5 bar FPR.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Fuel pressure should be 51psi, +/- .9

May want to try another gauge. If you're still getting 28psi, that's likely your problem. May have a bad FPR.

51 psi at idle or 51 psi with the pump primed but the engine not running?

M60 FPR is referenced to manifold pressure, right?

If the spec if 51 psi with engine off, then 28 psi with a strong vacuum in the manifold is a little low, but not grossly.

[JGood]

Fuel pressure should be 51psi, +/- .9

May want to try another gauge. If you're still getting 28psi, that's likely your problem. May have a bad FPR.

[Vtec?lol]

Are you using the correct m60 DME temp sensor, plugged into the correct plug on the harness? Is it working properly? (ohm it out, temp-based specs are in the Bentley)

You get codes 1221 and 1222 with the old and new o2 sensors? You clear the DME codes and get them back each time, with both sensors? Those codes are only for the passenger side sensor, so something is going on with the AFR, or that o2 sensor.

I'd do a fuel pressure test and compression test as well.

How did you do a vacuum leak test? Smoke machine? If not, do that.

How did you test the MAF? Do you have a spare you can try?

You said new DME... does that mean you tried replacing it, or that you have a new one so you're assuming it's good?

Do you have the o2 connectors swapped? Probably not since you aren't throwing codes for the drivers side... but good to double check.



Regarding fuel cut under decel... Mine doesn't cut until about 2-3 seconds after lifting off the throttle. And after it does cut, when I get back on this gas, it backfires. Every time. I also get some rumbling/popping from the exhaust under decel. Apparently everyone has this problem... at least with m60's in e30's. I don't understand how/why this isn't an issue with e34's, but I gave up chasing it.

Thanks for your replies and taking the time.

I purchased a new DME temp sender for the m60. I don't remember the exact reading but it's in spec @cold and @normal operating temp. I made sure it's in the right plug as well.

I get the 1222 and 1221 codes even after clearing the codes and removing the ecu for 10min. I have 2 dmes, both 404 units. When it first started acting up I swapped DME's and it was much improved. The first one constantly fouled cylinder 8 plug. it no longer does this with the replacement dme so I'm guessing the first one has a frayed ignition driver.

Smoke test was done with a burnt rag mod and again with a fog machine. Both worked well and gave me one leak that was fixed which was a crack nipple on the back of the manifolds diaphragm/pcv plate.

Fuel pressure was checked and was in 28psi at idle and went up to a max 30psi. I swapped the filter, hoses, and pump with a 255lph. I've yet to test again. I'll need to go to my storage to get my gauge. I'll do a compression test as well.

MAF was swapped with a known working one. Same symptoms. I actually left mine in my friends 740i and he hasn't noticed.

I'm about 5ft away from tearing it all apart and re-doing the harness and adapter.

[36brua]

Thanks JGood ^^^

[JGood]

I haven't found any specifics in swap guides about the oil housing. I would like to relocate the stock one or use an aftermarket one with screw on filter.

How are you guys modifying the stock ones to allow for the engine mounts? I see something about milling, but nothing in the way of directions.

Also what are you doing to get the oil lines hooked to where they came out of the block? Tapping and installing AN fittings? Welding something straight to the block?

Thanks again.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=237743

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2999754&postcount=228

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=3822917&postcount=781

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=2486703&postcount=154

There's other options, just search. Some people just cut off the oil line part of the engine mount, and keep that bolted to the block.

[LoneWolf]

I haven't found any specifics in swap guides about the oil housing. I would like to relocate the stock one or use an aftermarket one with screw on filter.

How are you guys modifying the stock ones to allow for the engine mounts? I see something about milling, but nothing in the way of directions.

Also what are you doing to get the oil lines hooked to where they came out of the block? Tapping and installing AN fittings? Welding something straight to the block?

Thanks again.