The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

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  • Simple_Smith
    replied
    Originally posted by DesertBMW

    OBD1 Bosch DME will not need any information from anything else to run properly.
    excellent, thank you

    Leave a comment:


  • DesertBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by Simple_Smith
    bumping an old tread because I had a project car dumped in my garage. 85 325e with a 94 M60 and 99 G420 trans. It has an auto harness I want to clean up. Does the DME need ANY info from the trans computer for it to run properly? I understand there will be CAN codes but that doesn't concern me. Can I simply cut out all the wiring from the auto trans connector back into the harness splices?
    OBD1 Bosch DME will not need any information from anything else to run properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Simple_Smith
    replied
    bumping an old tread because I had a project car dumped in my garage. 85 325e with a 94 M60 and 99 G420 trans. It has an auto harness I want to clean up. Does the DME need ANY info from the trans computer for it to run properly? I understand there will be CAN codes but that doesn't concern me. Can I simply cut out all the wiring from the auto trans connector back into the harness splices?

    Leave a comment:


  • DDF_Dutchie
    replied
    Hi guys,

    Im in my m60b40 swap right now.
    I'm currently busy with preppin the engine for the swap, engine bay is 80% ready.
    Still I have a couple of questions:
    For my setup im using a 5-speed with M5(E39) flywheel and M3 (e36) clutch. Will this work? so far I read it will, but I still would like some confirmation.

    And for putting the engine in, would you guys recommend putting the transmission on the engine or mount it to the engine when it already is sittin in the bay?

    BTW im from the Netherlands so please excuse me if I make grammar mistakes

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by LoneWolf
    Has no one considered sectioning the top of the subframe?
    Like JGood said, the problem isn't interference between the pan and the subframe, it's the pan and steering rack, AND the rack can't easily move because that would wreak havoc with bump steer.

    However, the rack could be moved down if something like this were used to lower the tie rods as well (and the tie rod ends were replaced with standard rod ends).

    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...Heim,3333.html

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by LoneWolf
    Has no one considered sectioning the top of the subframe?
    That would require lowering the steering rack even further, affecting bump steer in the same way subframe spacers do.

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  • LoneWolf
    replied
    Has no one considered sectioning the top of the subframe?

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  • LoneWolf
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    Those are pics from a car that is in the build process. He modified the pan but did not yet build the 'lowered' mounts.

    I have my pan notched, and made mounts about 1" lower then the normal mounts. I took my own measurements, and the crank bolt is exactly where the m20 crank bolt was.

    The common theory for the engine needing lowered about 3/4" is correct. This is done by either using subframe spacers, or by notching the pan and lowering the engine via custom mounts.
    Ah ok. That makes sense then, thanks for clarifying.

    I was reading it as he hadn't lowered the engine yet and those were his measurements.

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by LoneWolf
    Hmmmm saw this post in my thread.

    So you notched the pan, but didn't lower the engine anymore? Over and inch of space seems like a little much to me

    Those are pics from a car that is in the build process. He modified the pan but did not yet build the 'lowered' mounts.

    I have my pan notched, and made mounts about 1" lower then the normal mounts. I took my own measurements, and the crank bolt is exactly where the m20 crank bolt was.

    The common theory for the engine needing lowered about 3/4" is correct. This is done by either using subframe spacers, or by notching the pan and lowering the engine via custom mounts.

    Leave a comment:


  • LoneWolf
    replied
    Hmmmm saw this post in my thread.

    So you notched the pan, but didn't lower the engine anymore? Over and inch of space seems like a little much to me

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by mattdk318i
    Ok, after some measurements this is what I got. Measuring with a 59.4mm tall level from the top of the frame rail pinch. NOTE: This is after i modified the pan on the M62. There is 1.125'' from bottom of pan to top of subframe. The camera angle is not in line with the reading, so within line of sight i got these measurements

    M62: Im measuring 5.5''(13.7cm) from the top of the nut to top of the level

    M20: Im measuring 6.375''(16.2cm) from the top of the nut to the top of the level.


    So if we do the math, keeping in mind that the nut on the M62 is 28mm and the M20 nut is 22mm.

    Center of M62 crank to top of frame rail is 9.16CM (13.7CM-59.4MM(level height)+14mm(center of crank)

    Center of M20 crank to top of frame rail is 11.36CM (16.2CM-59.4MM(level height)+11MM (center of crank)

    Leave a comment:


  • DDF_Dutchie
    replied
    Hi everyone,

    So I got my m60b40 but I need to collect parts for the drivetrain.
    My question is, what kind of flywheel can I use (stock M5, maybe from another engine?) is it also possible to use a m3 flywheel?

    M60 parts are hard to find in here in Holland but M3 parts are easy

    Leave a comment:


  • Old city bimmer
    replied
    Just wanted to pass along for you guys doing the M60 swap. Im not sure if this would work with the M62 or S62 but looks like the Dayco 1220 flexible radiator hose fits perfect for the top hose . its 20" long and it goes around the filter housing. I'm using a Z3M rad(ala Ebay) so my connection was even more of a pain since the Rad is pretty thick. I wont know if it will hold up till I get her running.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    I apparently was asleep when I posted this in the project forum instead of the V8 swap forum...



    Who's been able to keep air conditioning with their M60/M62/S62, etc. swap?

    Will the compressor fit and it just takes custom lines, or is there a problem fitting the compressor?

    I know the outer edges of the valve covers are right in line with the inner faces of the frame rails... didn't know if the compressor hung out beyond the valve covers or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • Old city bimmer
    replied
    The semi-Comprehensive M60b40 into E30 swap Q&A

    I'm in position 2. I'm going to take some measurements and see what I can come up with to fit

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