Trying to get some issues sorted on my m60 swap, I had some of this posted in my build thread, but figured I could expand the visibility in here. The following is what is basically going on:
I have a low (400-500) RPM idle. Should be more like 600-700. More importantly, I have a pretty bad misfire at low RPM’s, it’s a stumbling and hesitation that isn’t enough to buck the car around a whole lot, but you can feel it a little and hear it mostly. It seems to be between idle and 3k or so. And it only seems to be at very light throttle loads. Maybe 1/4 throttle and less. It may be present at higher throttle loads, but the engine power overcomes it to the point where it's not very noticeable, if that's the case.
I also notice that while decelerating in gear using engine braking in that RPM range (0 to 3k), I get some backfiring/rumbling and weird hesitation or missing from the engine. Slowing down as I pull up to stop signs and stuff, is when it’s most noticeable/annoying.
The car runs great at full throttle, from idle to redline. It pulls very hard and doesn’t break up at all. I installed an aftermarket chip, and that made no difference in the drivability issues.
Here's what I've checked:
-Crank position sensor: Supposed to be 550 ohms, I’m getting 550 ohms (brand new OEM part).
-Cam sensor: Supposed to be 1280 ohms +/- 10%. Currently I’m getting 1290. A few days ago I was getting 1470, not sure what's up with that. The specified range is 1100-1400.
-Idle control valve: Supposed to be 12, 12, 24 ohms checking across the three terminals. I’m getting 12, 12, 24. The valve spins freely and moves when voltage is applied. I tried another one that tested good, no change.
-Coolant temp sensor: Supposed to be 2.1-2.7k ohms at 76* and 270-360 ohms at 176*. I’m in those ranges at those temps.
-Intake air temp sensor: Same as coolant sensor, and I am within those ranges.
-Throttle position switch: Supposed to be approx 1k to approx 4k ohms, smoothly variable from closed to open, and 4k across terminal 1 and 3 while closed. I’m 1.1k to 3.8k, and 3.8k closed. I switched with another TPS, same exact results. Out of the car, the range is .7k to 4.8k (throttle body is the limitation of the travel, so it doesn’t bottom out the potentiometer.)
-MAF: If I unplug it while running there is a noticeable change, the engine barely runs. It won’t start with it unplugged. There are no other tests that I’m aware of to check functionality. I did buy MAF cleaner and clean it.
I unplugged the coil packs one by one with the engine running, and each one caused a pretty bad misfire.
I have not checked anything in the fuel system. I’m using the same pumps I have been for a few years now. I am using a new OEM fuel filter, and I tried switching it with another new OEM filter, no change. Have not done any fuel pressure tests, or checked the regulator.
I haven’t found any vacuum leaks. I’m not running a charcoal canister, so I have the line for that plugged. I removed the booster vacuum line and plugged it on the engine side, no change. Tried wiggling everything I could on the engine intake area, no change at all. All of those parts/gaskets are new… TB gasket, intake gaskets, OSV tube o-rings, etc…
So, that's where I'm at. Any suggestions on what other things to check or verify would be GREATLY appreciated. It is safe to assume that none of the engine parts worked prior. The CPS was bad right off the bat, for instance, and I was told this engine came out of a running 740i and has no issues. Many of the parts didn't come with the engine and are collected from various sources (MAF, ICV, wire harness, etc... all came from different cars).
I have a low (400-500) RPM idle. Should be more like 600-700. More importantly, I have a pretty bad misfire at low RPM’s, it’s a stumbling and hesitation that isn’t enough to buck the car around a whole lot, but you can feel it a little and hear it mostly. It seems to be between idle and 3k or so. And it only seems to be at very light throttle loads. Maybe 1/4 throttle and less. It may be present at higher throttle loads, but the engine power overcomes it to the point where it's not very noticeable, if that's the case.
I also notice that while decelerating in gear using engine braking in that RPM range (0 to 3k), I get some backfiring/rumbling and weird hesitation or missing from the engine. Slowing down as I pull up to stop signs and stuff, is when it’s most noticeable/annoying.
The car runs great at full throttle, from idle to redline. It pulls very hard and doesn’t break up at all. I installed an aftermarket chip, and that made no difference in the drivability issues.
Here's what I've checked:
-Crank position sensor: Supposed to be 550 ohms, I’m getting 550 ohms (brand new OEM part).
-Cam sensor: Supposed to be 1280 ohms +/- 10%. Currently I’m getting 1290. A few days ago I was getting 1470, not sure what's up with that. The specified range is 1100-1400.
-Idle control valve: Supposed to be 12, 12, 24 ohms checking across the three terminals. I’m getting 12, 12, 24. The valve spins freely and moves when voltage is applied. I tried another one that tested good, no change.
-Coolant temp sensor: Supposed to be 2.1-2.7k ohms at 76* and 270-360 ohms at 176*. I’m in those ranges at those temps.
-Intake air temp sensor: Same as coolant sensor, and I am within those ranges.
-Throttle position switch: Supposed to be approx 1k to approx 4k ohms, smoothly variable from closed to open, and 4k across terminal 1 and 3 while closed. I’m 1.1k to 3.8k, and 3.8k closed. I switched with another TPS, same exact results. Out of the car, the range is .7k to 4.8k (throttle body is the limitation of the travel, so it doesn’t bottom out the potentiometer.)
-MAF: If I unplug it while running there is a noticeable change, the engine barely runs. It won’t start with it unplugged. There are no other tests that I’m aware of to check functionality. I did buy MAF cleaner and clean it.
I unplugged the coil packs one by one with the engine running, and each one caused a pretty bad misfire.
I have not checked anything in the fuel system. I’m using the same pumps I have been for a few years now. I am using a new OEM fuel filter, and I tried switching it with another new OEM filter, no change. Have not done any fuel pressure tests, or checked the regulator.
I haven’t found any vacuum leaks. I’m not running a charcoal canister, so I have the line for that plugged. I removed the booster vacuum line and plugged it on the engine side, no change. Tried wiggling everything I could on the engine intake area, no change at all. All of those parts/gaskets are new… TB gasket, intake gaskets, OSV tube o-rings, etc…
So, that's where I'm at. Any suggestions on what other things to check or verify would be GREATLY appreciated. It is safe to assume that none of the engine parts worked prior. The CPS was bad right off the bat, for instance, and I was told this engine came out of a running 740i and has no issues. Many of the parts didn't come with the engine and are collected from various sources (MAF, ICV, wire harness, etc... all came from different cars).
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