Better to OVER DO IT with cooling haha :)
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V8 Compatible Radiators
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Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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I'm going to be using a 52mm Japspeed S14 Radiator, with 2 x 12" fans.
£109, think thats about $170.
E30 318is M60B40 4.0 v8 6 Speed Drift Car Build Project
Wisefab e36/e30 Lock Kit, BC Racing Coilovers
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You really going to fit the fans between the engine and radiator? :)- E34 M5 (x 2) -
- E30 V8 Cabrio "Kylpyamme" -
- Alpina D10 Touring #33/94 -
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- E46 318i Touring -
- Toyota Hiace 4wd -
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Originally posted by Jonsku View PostYou really going to fit the fans between the engine and radiator? :)E30 318is M60B40 4.0 v8 6 Speed Drift Car Build Project
Wisefab e36/e30 Lock Kit, BC Racing Coilovers
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I used an aftermarket "ebay" rad for a Toyota Celica GT4 (ST185 I beleive but the ST205 should fit also).
There were 3 reasons I picked this rad.
- The outlet clears the oil filter housing. There is a nice flow from the outlet to the water pump. No stupid rad rose like with my E28 535 rad.
- It fits the E30 perfectly. The rad is 12mm narrower than the frame rail opening so it drops in nicely. The heigth of the finned section matches the opening in the rad support perfectly and since the tanks are on the top and bottom the finned surface is the entire width of the opening. The surface area is 14% larger than my E28 535 rad.
- It has rad fan switch bung for a Toyota fan switch (see problems below) welded in the bottom of the rad. No stupid inline sensors or probes in the fins needed for your rad switch.
There are also 3 problems.
- My car is still overheating very slowly in traffic. I can control it with using the heater however it is not perfect. I think the problem with my car is the lack of a good fan. I got a 14" "universal" fan with the rad that I tried. I can't even tell if the fan is pushing or pulling on the front of the rad I've tried both polarities it makes no difference. I will upgrade to a 16" pusher SPAL fan in the winter.
- It is not bolt in. But if you can do an M60 swap the brackets are 1/2 hour project.
- Although this rad has a bung for a fan switch the Toyota fan switches function opposite to a BMW switch. The Toyota switch is normally closed and opens at temp and the BMW system is normally closed. That means if you wire it in place of the BMW switch the fan will turn on when the rad is cold and turn off when the rad hits the switch temp. (this screwed me up for 2 weeks, I thought I had defective switches) There are 3 solutions, use a Tridon TFS 199 fan switch, which is a Toyota switch for some Australian application, find an aftermarket switch that fits or add a relay circuit to your switch wiring to revese the function. I went with the Tridon TFS 199 option. You will need to find a wiring pig tail from a late 1990s Camary and wire it in place of the BMW connector.
I hope this helps.
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What about just buying the OEM Behr radiator?
This seems like a great deal!
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...er=17112227281
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Originally posted by Zacm829 View PostWhat about just buying the OEM Behr radiator?
This seems like a great deal!
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...er=17112227281
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Originally posted by Zacm829 View PostWhat about just buying the OEM Behr radiator?
This seems like a great deal!
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...er=17112227281Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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