Man I'm sorry but I have no idea. The rosehill setup got my car barely working - I had/have a slightly less worse version of what you're describing. What size master cylinder did you get?
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apparently it's a 7/8" bore slave cylinder.
Weird thing is that its giving the requires amount of travel yet the clutch is still not disengaging enough to select gears when running.
What did you end up going with?Comment
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Pretty sure that's my slave, I've got a 3/4" master, just wondering if you've got the same.
I've read stuff about people having issues with the 7/8" CNC slave included in the rosehill kit. They instead use some sort of slave out of a Datsun, can't remember what kind though... maybe a 280z?Comment
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oh sorry miss read that. For the master i've just got the standard e30 manual master cylinder.
just like this:
crazy that it's getting the right travel on the clutch fork but still not disengaging... so confusedComment
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Read post 2213 and newer on this thread
I know it's not a 302 but it's a clutch, still applies. Did you check the clutch before installing? It was never on my to do list until I read Kam's thread, now it always will be.Comment
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ok so a bent clutch could be the problem.
It's an existing clutch, never had an issue before so the only way i bent it is from installation which could be possible... I'll have to try some other quick tests before i go ahead and pull out the trans as it's not a fun job!
Thanks for the help!Comment
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So after pulling out the box and putting it back in it turns out I'm not getting enough travel for the clutch to dis engage.
So being that i have a stock e30 clutch master which measured up as 3/4 and a slave thats 7/8'' I think thats what the problem is. I'm thinking I'll need a slave cylinder bore of around 1/2''.Comment
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I am using the Nissan slave. The part number is in my build thread, and it's 3/4" bore. It works well with the e30 master cylinder.Comment
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Cheers for the advice. You have a T5 hey? I wonder how different that is to a TKO600.
I need about 60mm of travel for my clutch to work. currently I'm getting 30mm with a 7/8'' bore slave. If i did my maths right I believe a 1/2 should get me to that 60mm travel. or am I doing this all wrong? hahaComment
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i think the clutch specs (aside from the spline count) are pretty much the same between the tko and t5. the one difference that you might be having issues with is where the fork comes out of the bellhousing and how the slave will mount because of this.
on a t5, the clutch fork comes out of the bellhousing at about the "9'o'clock" position
on a tko, it's more like "7-8'o'clock", right? if the bleeder isn't pointing straight up (like it would on a t5 setup) try jacking the left (passenger?) side of your car up until it's pointing up. maybe there's some air trapped in there. worth a shot, maybeComment
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yeh your right, more of a 7 o'clock position and the bleeder is on a slight angle. I'll try that and let you know the outcome. If not I'll be getting the cylinder re sleeved down to 1/2 and let you know if that helps. Hopefully Its the first as thats a free fix! =)Comment
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Do you have some preload on the clutch? I'm at about 1/4" if I recall. Clutch begins to engage at about 1/3 of the way up on the pedal. I'm using a T5 with the rose hill hydro conversion kit.sigpicComment
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I think you're gonna have to get a new master cylinder, from what I remember the stock e30 one just won't cut it with the 7/8" slave.Comment
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prload? from what I know you want a 1/4'' clearance before the bearing engages, otherwise it will always be in use and you bearing will have a short life span.
As for the master cylinder, if theres not a bolt up option for a bigger master than 3/4 it's probably worth getting the slave re sleeved to 1/2. I know this will make the pedal harder but I use to be a cable clutch man =)Comment
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At least on a T5, the TO bearing is designed to be in constant contact with the pressure plate. Try about 1/8" of preload after getting to 0 preload and see how it does.sigpicComment
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