*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

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  • eurotrash
    Mod Crazy
    • May 2007
    • 768

    #166
    I made a braket and just mounted a holley blue in the stock external spot.

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    • e30_302
      E30 Addict
      • Sep 2013
      • 453

      #167
      That's what I'm going to do (where my pump is now) except I'm going to use a Holley Black. I wish I had just kept all the stock stuff and used a regulator, but we pulled all that out early on when I had just a mechanical pump on the engine. That ended up not working because the exhaust was too close.
      sigpic

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      • jalopi
        Banned
        • Aug 2010
        • 2370

        #168
        did you have a lot of problems with vapor lock or something?

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        • e30_302
          E30 Addict
          • Sep 2013
          • 453

          #169
          I think it's just a lack of capacity. Car screams until the bowls start to run low on fuel. I never even noticed it until I got it on the track.
          sigpic

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          • jalopi
            Banned
            • Aug 2010
            • 2370

            #170
            Huh. Did you try setting the float level higher?

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            • e30_302
              E30 Addict
              • Sep 2013
              • 453

              #171
              Yeah, it's the pump. Little tiny mr gasket thing I got at advance. Does pretty good for what it is, really.
              sigpic

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              • Lebstanka
                Noobie
                • May 2014
                • 36

                #172
                hey everyone, I'm going to try and enter the conversation without any forum elitist slapping me for any noob mistakes,

                I'm currently on the e30 +302 build, heres some problems i am currently encountering-
                I ordered the wilwood bbk from IE, comes with 2 piece rotor and slim 3 pot caliper. I was planning on going with manual brakes but theres no way these massive brakes could be modulated by foot power alone. can anyone refer me to the answer of what pedal setup, master cylinder, or remote booster setup they have seen used or thought up before?

                i was reffered to this but i think its for all booster-less applications http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=290421

                and ya i cut the heater lines, thanks e30v8
                sigpic

                1991 318is Ford 5.0 swap
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=329830

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                • e30_302
                  E30 Addict
                  • Sep 2013
                  • 453

                  #173
                  Get this http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-s...booster-delete and a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder. You'll need a die grinder or dremel to slightly open up the mounting holes on the MC. I run the same brakes.
                  sigpic

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                  • Lebstanka
                    Noobie
                    • May 2014
                    • 36

                    #174
                    Originally posted by e30_302
                    Get this http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-s...booster-delete and a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder. You'll need a die grinder or dremel to slightly open up the mounting holes on the MC. I run the same brakes.

                    Can I be nosy and ask what your pedal setup is ? Also wheel + tire combo ?
                    sigpic

                    1991 318is Ford 5.0 swap
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=329830

                    Comment

                    • e30_302
                      E30 Addict
                      • Sep 2013
                      • 453

                      #175
                      Tell ya anything I can: stock pedal with the pivot changed (all part of the booster delete kit, not hard). Wheels are 15" Honda's with 205/50/15 Dunlop Star Specs. Front brake pads are Raybestos ST-43 rears are Carbotech XP10.
                      sigpic

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                      • Lebstanka
                        Noobie
                        • May 2014
                        • 36

                        #176
                        What did you end up doing for the driveshaft Jalopi? Since the v8 guide wasn't to you're liking. Also what diffs have y'all played with?
                        sigpic

                        1991 318is Ford 5.0 swap
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=329830

                        Comment

                        • e30_302
                          E30 Addict
                          • Sep 2013
                          • 453

                          #177
                          Personally I'm using an aluminum shaft from a cop crown vic, cut to fit. Diff flange comes from jagsthatrun.com.

                          I've used a 4.10 & 2.93 diff. The 4.10 was way too short. The 2.93 suits me very well (road racing).
                          sigpic

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                          • jalopi
                            Banned
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 2370

                            #178
                            +1 on the diff flange from jagsthatrun, very quality piece. had one made from scratch from a driveshaft shop, it was something like $300.

                            With the correct pedal ratio, the brakes you're gonna be running (almost the same braking torque as my setup) and a 3/4" master it's really hard to tell that the car has unboosted brakes. Then again, it doesn't feel like it's got 13" rotors either, they feel stock :D / :(

                            Still work great though. If I had to do it all over again I'd get the garagistic pedal mount, that way you can mount the clutch pedal in a non-ghetto way. The massive booster delete is a good product but for our applications it's not ideal compared to the pedal box setup from garagistic (because of the clutch issue). It's about $100 more for the pedal box (total when said and done) but totally worth it.

                            You're gonna want 235's in the rear if you've got decent heads & a cam, anything under and the ass end will come loose all the time.

                            Also, use this for the trans slave:

                            Roller Spring Perches, Mustang Sub-frame Connectors, Shelby drop Template


                            Push slave is the way to go. All the pull slaves out there (the kind e30v8 recommends) use o-rings for the pistons... I've had a few failures with this kind of slave. I'm no engineer so I can't say this is correct info, but everything I've read says that o-rings are pretty shit for dynamic applications. In any case, you'll have to hammer the trans tunnel a little bit to get that one to fit, but I'm sure you'll figure it out just fine.
                            Last edited by jalopi; 07-17-2014, 08:40 AM.

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                            • Lebstanka
                              Noobie
                              • May 2014
                              • 36

                              #179
                              im so glad this forum exists lol
                              sigpic

                              1991 318is Ford 5.0 swap
                              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=329830

                              Comment

                              • jalopi
                                Banned
                                • Aug 2010
                                • 2370

                                #180
                                Yeah dude unfortunately this thread is a fucking mess, haven't had much time to reorganize & consolidate all the information in a while... there's a lot to be done.

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