That website is pretty handy. I'm also thinking of a 5 lug for a BBK.
I just ordered the clutch and flywheel so I can try* to drop the engine in this weekend but my engine doesn't have any bell housing bolts..where could I get some without going to LKQ
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My M60 swap
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Massive's booster delete kit, stock master, stock brakes. They currently suck. I believe my clutch master is a 3/4, that shit is great (ACT pressure plate rated to 450 ft/lbs of torque and the pedal effort is like a stock e30)
I used this site:
to calculate how much braking torque I currently have. It's roughly 800#s. According to the website, our cars need roughly 3200-3400#s of braking torque to be good.
Not wanting to spend a shitton of money on a braking setup I decided to do a 5lug swap for a budget BBK. This setup is (IMO) just as good as any fancy BBK out there as far as braking torque goes, maybe not for cooling/track longevity but that's not an issue I'll be running into. I just want stock braking power back :(
$240 Lithuanian front hub adapters - allows you to bolt non-M e36/46 hub/wheelbearing assemblies onto your stock struts. They seem to be well made and are priced good. The 16mm 'set screw' is goddamn billet, which gets big brownie points in my book. Also, will push your wheel out by roughly 12mm
$200 6 cylinder non-M Z3 rear hubs - fits in the stock trailing arm / wheel bearing, also sticks your wheel out by about 23mm
$500 E46 front hub / wheel bearing assemblies
$seeabove E46 330i front and rear brakes - reading how big they are on the internet does not do them justice. The rotors are fukken HUGE.
$200 Hawk HP pads all around
20ish mm spacer for the caliper bracket in the rear
According to the calculator, this setup DOUBLES the amount of available braking torque. With a 5/8" master I'll be putting out roughly 3500#s of braking torque. One downside is that your wheels get pushed out a bit and that they need to be 17"s.
The big pluses for me are that aside from the pads (unless you wanna get regular stuff) all the wear parts have off-the-shelf availability. Also, the tire selection for 17's is kickass compared to 16's (and they're much cheaper). You're getting the same braking power (maybe not efficiency and longevity) as a fancy custom BBK for all four wheels, but essentially a new set of wheels and tires for free.
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Good to hear the brakes work well, finally getting around to 'fixing' mine. What size masters are you rocking?
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My M60 swap
Thanks for the tips guys. I had a buddy come over with his pressure bleeder and we got all the air out, pedal is nice and solid. Thinking about rolling it down the driveway a few times to test everything out.
Thanks for the link Jalopi, Ive always wanted a pressure bleeder so i think ill give that a try.
Edit: took the car for a test drive around the neighborhood. Brakes and steering feel great. I was surprised at how easy it was to brake. No trouble locking up.
I got some very strange looks though..car with no engine or hood with a 2x4 laying over the engine bay with some reservoirs C clamped onto itLast edited by Jack89i; 04-08-2014, 01:56 PM.
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Originally posted by Jack89i View PostGot the rear brakes bleed but the fronts are giving me a lot if trouble. I've gone through 4 big bottles of brake fluid. There are no bubble coming out of the bleeders, just fresh fluid but no pressure. I rigged this up to force fluid through
But there's still nothing. I think there's just air stuck in the MC so I'm going to pull everything out tomorrow and bench bleed I guess
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There's something in the DIY section about some dude using a home depot weed sprayer to pressurize hydraulic systems from the cap, though I bet you could do it your way too (pressurize from the hose... I imagine a lot more pressure than what that syringe makes lol)
Decided to not be a lazy fuck and found it for you
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Got the rear brakes bleed but the fronts are giving me a lot if trouble. I've gone through 4 big bottles of brake fluid. There are no bubble coming out of the bleeders, just fresh fluid but no pressure. I rigged this up to force fluid through
But there's still nothing. I think there's just air stuck in the MC so I'm going to pull everything out tomorrow and bench bleed I guess
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Originally posted by Jack89i View PostYea I stumbled upon it when i was trying to figure out my driveshaft options. Im using the flaming river steering joints, really good product, i would recommend it.
I wonder what would be cheaper though..eta driveshaft+balancing+guibo or Just that revshift guibo..
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Originally posted by Zacm829 View PostDidn't even know they made those!
In theory I think that would work, I ended up using a complete E36 M3 drive-shaft.
Which steering shaft setup did you end up using? Flaming River?
I wonder what would be cheaper though..eta driveshaft+balancing+guibo or Just that revshift guibo..
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Originally posted by Jack89i View PostSo since I'm using the zf 5 speed I have to use the large guibo e30 eta driveshaft..but 24v swappers using the same zf trans from the e36 m3 have this same problem until revshift came up with this https://www.revshift.com/shop/24v-sw...dd8d021b6f68d7 so could I use this for mine and keep my late model driveshaft?
In theory I think that would work, I ended up using a complete E36 M3 drive-shaft.
Which steering shaft setup did you end up using? Flaming River?
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So since I'm using the zf 5 speed I have to use the large guibo e30 eta driveshaft..but 24v swappers using the same zf trans from the e36 m3 have this same problem until revshift came up with this https://www.revshift.com/shop/24v-sw...dd8d021b6f68d7 so could I use this for mine and keep my late model driveshaft?
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Got the steering shaft finished
Dash almost in
I hate putting my flappy air vents and broken hvac panel back in but I just really want to get this done
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Finished the dash today
It's pretty obvious that there were cracks but it certainly looks better than before
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