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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Jack89i View Post
    Did I mention that I'm 16? I'll be getting stuck a lot so any help/suggestions will be very helpful..
    You're doing great for a 16 year old.

    Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
    :facepalm: You need to have oil in the engine! DO NOT crank it over without oil.... I know you're 16, but really? Are you fucking serious? FILL IT WITH OIL. Add ATF to each cylinder (yes, all of them). Crank over by hand at least 20 times. Then crank it over using the starter motor. Then check it all again.

    The piston rings require oil to properly seal. No oil = no seal = no compression. I can't believe I'm having to explain this...

    It sounds like your numbers jumped up quite a bit (especially #4) which is promising.
    Chill out, man. If it has 30 psi of cranking compression, he really can't hurt it any more. Cranking it with the plugs out with no oil is fine. It's not a brand new engine that's totally dry... the yard just drained the oil. There's still oil in the bearing interface and without compression load on the rods, there's nothing to squeeze that oil out.

    Originally posted by Jack89i View Post
    Ok after I put ATF in, I got 180 from cyl. 2 and 120 from cyl. 4
    Up from 160 (cyl. 2) and 30 from cyl. 4
    Good results. How about the other low ones you mentioned? Have you tested all 8 cylinders?

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Riiiiiiiiiiiggghhtttt...... like no one's ever done something stupid when they were 16 and just getting into cars, right?

    Adding oil (I don't mean in the cylinders, but into the sump) is something you definitely want to do if you're cranking it over with the starter - this can rape bearings pretty quick.... definitely a rookie mistake, but hey, shit happens. Regardless though, lack of oil won't affect your compression numbers much until the bearings are wiped out.

    If it makes you feel any better, when I was your age, I was doing a turbo setup on my first car (miata) and accidentally piped the compressor inlet and outlet backwards... couldn't figure out why I had to jam my AFM flap partially open to get the car running

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  • Jack89i
    replied
    Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
    :facepalm: You need to have oil in the engine! DO NOT crank it over without oil.... I know you're 16, but really? Are you fucking serious? FILL IT WITH OIL. Add ATF to each cylinder (yes, all of them). Crank over by hand at least 20 times. Then crank it over using the starter motor. Then check it all again.

    The piston rings require oil to properly seal. No oil = no seal = no compression. I can't believe I'm having to explain this...

    It sounds like your numbers jumped up quite a bit (especially #4) which is promising.
    Yes I'm serious..I wanted to do a quick check to see if I was going to be wasting my time with this engine..I honestly can't see how adding oil will fix the gap of 160psi to 30.. But I'll check it all again.


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    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    :facepalm: You need to have oil in the engine! DO NOT crank it over without oil.... I know you're 16, but really? Are you fucking serious? FILL IT WITH OIL. Add ATF to each cylinder (yes, all of them). Crank over by hand at least 20 times. Then crank it over using the starter motor. Then check it all again.

    The piston rings require oil to properly seal. No oil = no seal = no compression. I can't believe I'm having to explain this...

    It sounds like your numbers jumped up quite a bit (especially #4) which is promising.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jack89i
    replied
    Did I mention that I'm 16? I'll be getting stuck a lot so any help/suggestions will be very helpful..


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    Leave a comment:


  • Jack89i
    replied
    Ok after I put ATF in, I got 180 from cyl. 2 and 120 from cyl. 4
    Up from 160 (cyl. 2) and 30 from cyl. 4


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  • ST1G
    replied
    In, this is good stuff.

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  • Jack89i
    replied

    Conformed that it is a nikasil engine..
    I think I'll pull the heads as I have nothing to lose. If its a bad HG then I'll fix it but if the rings or bores are bad then I'll probably ditch it


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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by LoneWolf View Post
    Bearings are expensive. If it needs rings it probably needs bored, which is a problem. The nikasil or alusil blocks can not be bored without being re-treated, they do not use liners like other aluminum blocks.

    Only real option in that case is to install liners, that would be sweet, but pricey.
    But it could also be burned valves (exchange the engine) or a head gasket (repair and enjoy).

    Originally posted by Jack89i View Post
    Ok I'm going to give the ATF trick a try..
    Just out of curiosity, why ATF?
    ATF has detergent properties and lower viscosity than engine oil that make it work better for cold applications like this.

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  • Jack89i
    replied
    Ok I'm going to give the ATF trick a try..
    Just out of curiosity, why ATF?


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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Jack89i View Post
    I can return it to LKQ and get my monies back..if I can find the receipt

    Although a tear down would be a lot of fun


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
    Originally posted by Jack89i View Post
    Also I did the compression test with the manifold off and no spark plugs in..also the engine was dry


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
    No harm in trying the ATF trick, then. Just turn it a few dozen revolutions to distribute the oil along the bores.

    If the sump is dry, then there won't be any spray from the crank journals lubricating the bores, which will make compression test results suspect.
    However, 40-60 psi is a pretty low number to bring up... unlikely it's *just* dry bores/rings.

    If it's repairable and you repair it, you get the peace of mind of knowing what the inside of the engine looks like and that you were the last person to open it up.

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  • LoneWolf
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi View Post
    Please crank the engine over a few times after putting the ATF in before you reinstall spark plugs or compression tester

    +1 to pull the heads and see what's going on... rings and bearings can't be too expensive for those engines (or are they?)

    Besides, what do you have to lose? It's not like you're gonna put it in as is - tear that bitch apart and do it right
    Bearings are expensive. If it needs rings it probably needs bored, which is a problem. The nikasil or alusil blocks can not be bored without being re-treated, they do not use liners like other aluminum blocks.

    Only real option in that case is to install liners, that would be sweet, but pricey.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jack89i
    replied
    Also I did the compression test with the manifold off and no spark plugs in..also the engine was dry


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  • Jack89i
    replied
    I can return it to LKQ and get my monies back..if I can find the receipt

    Although a tear down would be a lot of fun


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi View Post
    Please crank the engine over a few times after putting the ATF in before you reinstall spark plugs or compression tester
    This. I figured it would turn over enough during the compression test, but it's good to say it up front.

    Also, make life easy for yourself and leave all the plugs out when doing a compression test... much easier on the starter (and your ears) that way.

    Originally posted by jalopi View Post
    +1 to pull the heads and see what's going on... rings and bearings can't be too expensive for those engines (or are they?)

    Besides, what do you have to lose? It's not like you're gonna put it in as is - tear that bitch apart and do it right
    Yeah, nothing to lose on a junk engine, and potentially plenty to learn.

    Leave a comment:

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