My M60 swap

[Jack89i]

Yea I put everything back together and I guess I'll be taking it back tomorrow morning and beginning another hunt for an m60..


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[The Dark Side of Will]

How long since the engine was run?
Did you crank it with throttle open or closed?
Did you crank it until the gauge stopped moving each time?

If it's been a long time since the engine was run and the bore walls are dry, then you could see very low numbers.

You might try dropping a teaspoon of ATF into each cylinder and re-do the test to see what numbers you come up with.

You might also pull that head off. If compression's really that bad (meaning the oil doesn't help much), then you should see scoring or other damage on the bore walls (or burned valves or a blown head gasket).

Have you done any more checking? Do you have access to an air compressor? If so, you can use your compression test adapter to pressurize the cylinder and determine if the numbers are low because of bore/ring condition, intake valve seal, exhaust valve seal or head gasket seal.

You might be able to repair the engine you have for a lot less than a new engine would cost.

Also, is your engine a nikasil or alusil block?

[jalopi]

Please crank the engine over a few times after putting the ATF in before you reinstall spark plugs or compression tester

+1 to pull the heads and see what's going on... rings and bearings can't be too expensive for those engines (or are they?)

Besides, what do you have to lose? It's not like you're gonna put it in as is - tear that bitch apart and do it right

[The Dark Side of Will]

Please crank the engine over a few times after putting the ATF in before you reinstall spark plugs or compression tester

This. I figured it would turn over enough during the compression test, but it's good to say it up front.

Also, make life easy for yourself and leave all the plugs out when doing a compression test... much easier on the starter (and your ears) that way.

+1 to pull the heads and see what's going on... rings and bearings can't be too expensive for those engines (or are they?)

Besides, what do you have to lose? It's not like you're gonna put it in as is - tear that bitch apart and do it right

Yeah, nothing to lose on a junk engine, and potentially plenty to learn.

[Jack89i]

I can return it to LKQ and get my monies back..if I can find the receipt

Although a tear down would be a lot of fun


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[Jack89i]

Also I did the compression test with the manifold off and no spark plugs in..also the engine was dry


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[LoneWolf]

Please crank the engine over a few times after putting the ATF in before you reinstall spark plugs or compression tester

+1 to pull the heads and see what's going on... rings and bearings can't be too expensive for those engines (or are they?)

Besides, what do you have to lose? It's not like you're gonna put it in as is - tear that bitch apart and do it right

Bearings are expensive. If it needs rings it probably needs bored, which is a problem. The nikasil or alusil blocks can not be bored without being re-treated, they do not use liners like other aluminum blocks.

Only real option in that case is to install liners, that would be sweet, but pricey.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I can return it to LKQ and get my monies back..if I can find the receipt

Although a tear down would be a lot of fun


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Also I did the compression test with the manifold off and no spark plugs in..also the engine was dry


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No harm in trying the ATF trick, then. Just turn it a few dozen revolutions to distribute the oil along the bores.

If the sump is dry, then there won't be any spray from the crank journals lubricating the bores, which will make compression test results suspect.
However, 40-60 psi is a pretty low number to bring up... unlikely it's *just* dry bores/rings.

If it's repairable and you repair it, you get the peace of mind of knowing what the inside of the engine looks like and that you were the last person to open it up.

[Jack89i]

Ok I'm going to give the ATF trick a try..
Just out of curiosity, why ATF?


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[The Dark Side of Will]

Bearings are expensive. If it needs rings it probably needs bored, which is a problem. The nikasil or alusil blocks can not be bored without being re-treated, they do not use liners like other aluminum blocks.

Only real option in that case is to install liners, that would be sweet, but pricey.

But it could also be burned valves (exchange the engine) or a head gasket (repair and enjoy).

Ok I'm going to give the ATF trick a try..
Just out of curiosity, why ATF?

ATF has detergent properties and lower viscosity than engine oil that make it work better for cold applications like this.

[Jack89i]

Conformed that it is a nikasil engine..
I think I'll pull the heads as I have nothing to lose. If its a bad HG then I'll fix it but if the rings or bores are bad then I'll probably ditch it


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[ST1G]

In, this is good stuff.

[Jack89i]

Ok after I put ATF in, I got 180 from cyl. 2 and 120 from cyl. 4
Up from 160 (cyl. 2) and 30 from cyl. 4


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[Jack89i]

Did I mention that I'm 16? I'll be getting stuck a lot so any help/suggestions will be very helpful..


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[CorvallisBMW]

:facepalm: You need to have oil in the engine! DO NOT crank it over without oil.... I know you're 16, but really? Are you fucking serious? FILL IT WITH OIL. Add ATF to each cylinder (yes, all of them). Crank over by hand at least 20 times. Then crank it over using the starter motor. Then check it all again.

The piston rings require oil to properly seal. No oil = no seal = no compression. I can't believe I'm having to explain this...

It sounds like your numbers jumped up quite a bit (especially #4) which is promising.