5.0 swap wiring help please

[Stvstr]

I posted last week asking about the fuel pump flow rate because my swap ran like crap after 2500 rpm. Checked my fuel pressure, it's fine at idle and WOT. Been confused about this issue for a while, but then noticed my power windows would stop working after I started the car. Some research led me to the K5 and K7 unloader relays, which aren't turning power back on those circuits after the solenoid is disengaged. I jumpered the relays and the windows worked and the motor ran as it should.

I think it's because I connected the C101 black/yellow #18 wire directly to the solenoid with an extension wire; then connected the C101 black/green (#15) wire to the Mustang Brown connector #31, red/blue wire.

Reading the e30V8 swap manual again, it looks as though all 4 wires above (BMW black/green, BMW black yellow, Mustang red/blue and the extension to the starter solenoid) have to be connected together in one big solder mess.

Can anyone confirm the connection before I try it? I don't want to damage the EEC or mess something else up.

Thanks! Wouldn't have got this far without this forum.

[danval]

I have the manual, but because im not there yet, i havnt even go through it. Ive seen many 5.0 swaps but they end up going carbed insted of fuel i... double check your manual and see where the connection might be faulty. I dont see how your windows would stop working by adapting another engine harness... :/

[Stvstr]

So after more research I hooked up all 4 wires together and it seems to work properly. The black/green and black/yellow wire both have to be connected to the solenoid wire, because when the solenoid isnt energized by the start wire it supplies ground to the k5 and k7 relays. That allows the relays to power various things like my windows and some 5.0 sensors. I think thats why my windows didnt work and it ran like crap.

Now it runs great, and has way too much power for the booster-deleted brakes.

[eurotrash]

I think you dudes just need the man leg upgrade. After a bit i didnt even notice the brick brake. Actually prefered it.

[AWDBOB]

I think you dudes just need the man leg upgrade. After a bit i didnt even notice the brick brake. Actually prefered it.

This is what I've been hoping to hear.

[Stvstr]

Just call me chicken legs. But the amount of force I need to use to activate the ABS makes me feel like something in the system will snap.

[e30_302]

What size master are you using?

[Stvstr]

I still have the stock braking system, including the 21/17 mm master. I am searching for a 17 mm master that will fit the e30 pedal box if possible. I checked out the 5/8" Wilwood master but it looks like it has a different mounting pattern. Is there a 5/8" that will replace my stock e30 m/c? Or will I need to use Wilwood pedals?

Thanks.

[e30_302]

The wilwood master will bolt to Massive's booster delete plate.

[Stvstr]

The wilwood master will bolt to Massive's booster delete plate.

I didn't know that, but I went back through your posts on the "Definitive guide to 5.0 swaps" and realized I had missed your explanation of this. Just to help me be clear on this, did you use Wilwood part number 260-3372 as your brake m/c? It's described as a clutch m/c on the wilwood website. And then did you turn it sideways to fit the Massive delete plate?

Thanks for the help with this.

[e30_302]

That's right. You'll mount it sideways and remote mount the reservoir. It's a single outlet, so you'll need to a tee fitting and also a proportioning valve. The mounting holes are slightly narrower (by 2.8mm) than the mounting plate, so you need to take a die grinder to it to clearance it a little.

I haven't installed it yet, but the 1" bore MC I had was terrible, this is the closest wilwood has to Lee's recommended size of 17mm.

[Stvstr]

Thanks, your help is much appreciated! The stock m/c is ok for general driving, but its underpowered for aggressive driving or panic stops.

I am on your side of the continent in NYC this week, but when I get home I will order one.

[e30_302]

I can't remember the stock size, but with a 1" bore I had to literally stand on the pedal to get the wheels to lock....in gravel. On the track it was awful, even with heat in the pads.