1UZ (w/ SC in future)

[The Dark Side of Will]

Then take a look at this pic:

http://planetsoarer.com/supercharged_jag/EatonMP112Jaguar.htm

See that coolant pipe next the the SC pully? Planning on using that for the thermostat and put a modified plate on the waterpump housing. That smaller hose that goes off to the right and is under the bigger coolant hose goes to the TB, and can be removed without worry. Much like deleting all the bullshit under the M42 intake manifold. So there is a good amount of room, even if I don't move the engine back as far as I can.

Do you keep coming back to the Jaguar as just an example of what you could do?

[enildeR]

More or less. I'm certainly using it to draw ideas from. I saw the rad pipe, and thought it might help make some room for the SC. It's too cluttered right there where the pully would be. I'm hooked on the Jag pics because of the intercooler. The main aspect of it will be that it'll help keep the overall height lower (hopefully), but most likely will help reduce the amount of fab work, or eliminate one or two complex pieces.

What I mean is instead of trying to find the proper intercooler and fit it in a fab'd manifold, which uses cut offs from the stock one, under the SC, all I have to worry about is welding up the runnings to a manifold. The SC should sit lower because of this, I believe the added height of the intercooler would be less than traditional intake->IC->SC sandwich.

I will try my best to get a hold of one.
Though, thinking about it while looking at the pic, Whipple designed the SC case to shed a bit of heat, as it would be sitting at the top of the engine bay. The SC sits under all that stuff in the Jag pics, and I have no idea whether the Jag's SC was water cooled. Would I be subjecting the whipple to heat levels that would compromise its lifetime?

It's something I have to look in to.

[enildeR]

Not sure what's up with 6000 RPM, but I'm pretty sure the SS Camaros shift higher than that stock, with this transmission.
It was developed for use in trucks as well as cars... that's why the GVW rating is so high.
For any of those parameters, that's not the max the unit can do... it's just the highest values at which GM has run their validation test. Those numbers may not even be the highest values at which the unit would still pass the validation test. Even if it's run beyond those numbers, it'll still have a good long service life, because the validation tests are meant to be sure the unit will last 100K miles at that level, so that GM can put a warranty on it.

In that link, it states that the maximum shift speed is 6000 RPM. (Unless you meant that you don't know why it lists it as 6000.)

I'm going to hold off on the CD009 until I can find some more pricing & availability on this monster. Thanks for the heads-up on this transmission.

[enildeR]

Here a good example of how high a normal setup would be with the IC under the SC.

http://www.lextreme.com/Supercharged-Lexus.html

[thedivision]

I plan on doing a similar conversion. I purchased JDM 1UZ VVTi, similar to yours. I had an R154, but decided that I didn't want to risk using a 20-something year old transmission that was most likely abused. With a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):

MA5

2004 to 2008– Chevrolet Colorado
2004 to 2008– GMC Canyon
2007– Hummer H3

Gearing:
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.75 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.73 3.67

AR5

2006 to 2010– Pontiac Solstice
2007 to 2010– Saturn Sky

1 2 3 4 5 R
3.75 2.26 1.51 1.00 0.73 3.67

The gearing differs a bit form the R154 and triple-cone synchronizers are used on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. The Colorado box has the shifter too far forward and the Solstice has it too far back. The Colorado box uses a regular GM 27-spline slip-yoke whereas the Solstice uses a funky flange. The input shaft are spline for a GM clutch. The input shaft length also varies a bit, however, this is pretty immaterial.

I went with the Colorado box seeing as how extending the shifter is not too big of a deal and any old one-piece driveshaft from the junkyard will work (coupled with the JTR flange for the diff), utilizing readily available and replacable 1310 u-joints. Not to mention they're super cheap at any junkyard.

Another good thing about the MA5/AR5 is you can bolt a GM hydraulic throwout bearing directly to the input shaft retainer - no need for a custom adapter. To mate the transmission to the 1UZ bellhousing, I bought a 1UZ-R154 .cad file online and plan on taking it to a machine shop. I'll be purchasing a toyotav8.com flywheel.

I also considered the Nissan 6-speed, but it puts the shifter way too far back and I didn't see an easy way of modifying it.

Are you planning on using the stock ECU for the time being? If so, you will need a matched key (matched to the ECU), ignition coil ring, and transponder to bypass the immobilizer system, otherwise the motor won't start. Alternatively, you can pay someone to disable the immobilizer, but it's cheaper to gather those parts.

[enildeR]

I plan on doing a similar conversion. I purchased JDM 1UZ VVTi, similar to yours. I had an R154, but decided that I didn't want to risk using a 20-something year old transmission that was most likely abused. With a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):

I came across some mention of the Solstice gearboxes. I searched on ebay for a bit and saw that they were very similar.

Lately, I've been really thinking about the M-DCT. All the electronics are built in to it. You just have to tell it the shift mode. The stock BMW ECU does that bit after you fiddle with the shifter controls. I was planning on making something to send the proper signals using an atmel microcontroller.

The gearing differs a bit form the R154 and triple-cone synchronizers are used on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. The Colorado box has the shifter too far forward and the Solstice has it too far back. The Colorado box uses a regular GM 27-spline slip-yoke whereas the Solstice uses a funky flange. The input shaft are spline for a GM clutch. The input shaft length also varies a bit, however, this is pretty immaterial.

I went with the Colorado box seeing as how extending the shifter is not too big of a deal and any old one-piece driveshaft from the junkyard will work (coupled with the JTR flange for the diff), utilizing readily available and replacable 1310 u-joints. Not to mention they're super cheap at any junkyard.

Yeah I've seen those used on several swaps. I kind of want to keep the guibos, but we'll see.

Another good thing about the MA5/AR5 is you can bolt a GM hydraulic throwout bearing directly to the input shaft retainer - no need for a custom adapter. To mate the transmission to the 1UZ bellhousing, I bought a 1UZ-R154 .cad file online and plan on taking it to a machine shop. I'll be purchasing a toyotav8.com flywheel.

This was one thing I was certainly going to do no matter what manual gearbox I would eventually go with. I do like that the this alternative can have the hydraulic throwout bolt right in without the need for a custom plate/adapter.

I also considered the Nissan 6-speed, but it puts the shifter way too far back and I didn't see an easy way of modifying it.

I haven't gotten to doing some measuring. How far back does it put the shifter?

Are you planning on using the stock ECU for the time being? If so, you will need a matched key (matched to the ECU), ignition coil ring, and transponder to bypass the immobilizer system, otherwise the motor won't start. Alternatively, you can pay someone to disable the immobilizer, but it's cheaper to gather those parts.

I was originally, but then I said I might as well put that time in to wiring up the Wolf3D. Unfortunately, the version I have doesn't do sequential spark/fuel for a V8 (or more cylinders). They're banked, so I would most likely see a drop in MPG. Not to mention that there is no way for it to handle the VVTi. I'm not going to waste time trying to wire up the stock ECU and then troubleshoot anything. I decided that I was going to get the latest version of Megasquirt. It's cheap, works and is open source. My main concern is whether it handles the old VVTi or if it can handle the VVTi on this engine that is a duty cycle, and is based on engine speed/load/TP. If it doesn't, it can be added in and a git pull request can be sent to the devs. Whole community would benefit. The Wolf3D will be saved for when I find a car to put the M42 in.

[The Dark Side of Will]

With a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):

Interesting... source?

[dewme5]

I've been running a swapped 92 1uz in a truck, with R154. I went with aftermarket ECU, as the stock toyota one had several issue's. The capacitors are known to go bad, and for the money to fix, a programmable ECU was the better choice for me.

I've gone the Megasquirt route, which also has an add-on controller for automatic transmissions. Just a side note, if you weren't aware.

There is an Australian company that makes supercharger manifolds. A bit spendy, but come with a history of working.

I'm trying to sell an E30 that I have right now, but if doesn't sell, then I'll be taking it back to Florida, and putting that 1UZ in it. Turbos probably. I'd like the supercharger for a few different reasons, but packaging is just more then I want to get into. I'll be interested to see your results.