M60 barely runs when cold, 1,300rpm idle..

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  • Jack89i
    Wrencher
    • Dec 2013
    • 240

    #1

    M60 barely runs when cold, 1,300rpm idle..

    So on cold starts it idles around ~700 but almost dies when given any throttle until it warms up. However, when its warm it runs great but idles at ~1300. No, there arent any vacuum leaks. I have replaced every gasket and smoke tested it. I was really thinking DME coolant temp sensor but resistance figures seem to be correct. Gas mileage is shit too. Im out of ideas.. anyone have any insight?
    sigpic'89 325i
    M60 swap in progress
  • JGood
    R3V OG
    • Jan 2004
    • 7959

    #2
    Any codes?

    Stuck ICV?

    Does the TPS test good?
    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
    e30 restoration and V8 swap
    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

    Comment

    • sticksdaman
      R3VLimited
      • Apr 2005
      • 2987

      #3
      clogged fuel filter?
      Originally posted by ebelements
      Also, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.

      Comment

      • Jack89i
        Wrencher
        • Dec 2013
        • 240

        #4
        Fuel filter is newish. But that wouldn't explain the high idle. Justin, my CeL has just always been on due to my lack of a char coal canister. Can't get the stomp test to work. I tested the tps a while back and all was well. What's wierd is I can get it to idle at 700 if I unplug and plug in the icv real quick while it's running. When I plug it back in it idles perfect at 700 for about ten seconds and then just jumps back up to 1300


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        sigpic'89 325i
        M60 swap in progress

        Comment

        • JGood
          R3V OG
          • Jan 2004
          • 7959

          #5
          A Peake code reader is WELL worth the small investment.

          You can test the ICV, beyond making sure the valve isn't stuck (should hear a clicking when you shake it). You can test resistance between terminals.

          Terminals 1 & 2: 20 +/- 5 ohms
          Terminals 2 & 3: 20 +/- 5 ohms
          Terminals 1 & 3: 40 +/- 5 ohms
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

          Comment

          • Jack89i
            Wrencher
            • Dec 2013
            • 240

            #6
            Just tested the tps and it went from 1.6k closed to 4.47k wide open. I'll check the iac now


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            sigpic'89 325i
            M60 swap in progress

            Comment

            • dirty30
              No R3VLimiter
              • Jul 2004
              • 3005

              #7
              check your throttle stop, make sure it isn't holding the throttle slightly open... I've seen this on an E36 before... different motor I know but same symptoms.

              Comment

              • Jack89i
                Wrencher
                • Dec 2013
                • 240

                #8
                Throttle stop is good. I pulled codes and got one for the lack of a char coal canister and one that said "CAN message"


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                sigpic'89 325i
                M60 swap in progress

                Comment

                • Jack89i
                  Wrencher
                  • Dec 2013
                  • 240

                  #9
                  Also, it is to my understanding that with an auto harness I don't need to modify anything. I just chopped off the extra plugs. But..I'm using an auto dme..do I need to have a chip from a manual in there or does it not matter? I have no evap stuff just the vent line with a filter on it. Would I need to put a resistor or ground something out on the purge valve connector?


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  sigpic'89 325i
                  M60 swap in progress

                  Comment

                  • JGood
                    R3V OG
                    • Jan 2004
                    • 7959

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jack89i
                    Also, it is to my understanding that with an auto harness I don't need to modify anything. I just chopped off the extra plugs. But..I'm using an auto dme..do I need to have a chip from a manual in there or does it not matter? I have no evap stuff just the vent line with a filter on it. Would I need to put a resistor or ground something out on the purge valve connector?


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Nope, I actually just got done verifying all of that myself. Plug the throttle body inlet and vent the tank, that's what I've been running the past 3 years. Leave the purge valve unplugged. I just installed the entire system to see if it would change anything on my car, it did nothing but turn off the CEL, so I removed it all again.

                    The unmodified auto harness works as well. I installed one on my car a few years ago temporarily, and it made no change to anything. My spare DME is a stock auto DME, it runs perfect with it installed.
                    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                    e30 restoration and V8 swap
                    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

                    Comment

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