LS swap oil pan dimensions?

[sgtskid]

I have been looking for a GTO oil pan to use on my project car but, new ones are expensive and then I still have to pay machine shop to modify it.

I have seen used ones for around $200 but I still have to have it modified. I found a company that makes front sump LS swap pans and i have thought about giving them a try.

Does anyone have dimensions of their pan that I could use to compare to their pan?

Much appreciated.

[jalopi]

i'd buy one that's specifically made for the e30. something for a 240sx might work, but most other front sump stuff probably won't fit

garagistic makes a steel pan for the ls for the e30, might want to give them a look

http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-motor-swap/e30-oil-pan

[sgtskid]

i'd buy one that's specifically made for the e30. something for a 240sx might work, but most other front sump stuff probably won't fit

garagistic makes a steel pan for the ls for the e30, might want to give them a look

http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bm...ap/e30-oil-pan

I'll have to check them out.

Here is the one I was thinking about

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171680510219?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[jalopi]

even if the quality of welding was OK (i.e. the pan wasn't warped to shit from shitty welding, which tends to be an issue with most cheaply sourced chinese stuff) there's a few issues i can see you having with that pan:

a. it looks fairly deep and not very wide. notice how the kickouts aren't wider than the pan mounting flange? click on the garagistic pan to get a larger version; it's a much wider pan and probably a bit shallower. the cheapo ebay pan would probably give you ground clearance issues. here's a picture of a better example; it's clear how wide/shallow this sikky pan is vs the ebay joint



b. it's a pan for drag racing. unless that's all you plan on doing with it, that's also a big no. assuming it's baffled/trap door'd (which is a big assumption considering the price) you'd only have 1-2/4 of the necessary baffles/trap doors necessary to keep an auto-x'd/whatever'd front sump LS swap alive. drag style pans tend to only have baffling for longitudinal g forces whereas "road race" style pans have baffling for both longitudinal and lateral g forces. LS series engines are known to have issues with oiling, this is one area of the build you do not want to fuck around with

[sgtskid]

Good call on the drag racing. I don't intend on drag racing so baffling side to side would be important. I guess the search continues.

[garagistic]

Good call on the drag racing. I don't intend on drag racing so baffling side to side would be important. I guess the search continues.

Our oil pan has built in baffling system of trap door to keep that oil slosh down. Pair that up with our windage tray option and you got an ls1 that will never suffer from oil starvation. Our pan allows allows to motor to be mounted further back then most of the setups out there (our mounts should be ready for production soon!)

[iflytii]

Just to throw another option out there - Canton makes a pan that works well.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/product/15-276/15-276---GM-LS1LS6-5-58quot-DEEP-FRONT-SUMP-DRIFTROAD-RACE--PAN/

You can find these for under $300 they do not include a pickup tube or dipstick. A stock GTO pickup tube works with this pan and a dipstick is easy.

[jalopi]

the canton pan looks short enough, but it also looks very deep, much like the ebay pan. the kickouts are kinda narrow; might run into ground clearance issues with that one too

just wait for garagistic to put their mounts out and get everything at once; i've yet to hear something bad about their stuff and they're reasonably priced compared to other companies out there

@garagistic - any chance you'll be working on an e36 kit anytime soon? :D

[iflytii]

the canton pan looks short enough, but it also looks very deep, much like the ebay pan. the kickouts are kinda narrow; might run into ground clearance issues with that one too

just wait for garagistic to put their mounts out and get everything at once; i've yet to hear something bad about their stuff and they're reasonably priced compared to other companies out there

@garagistic - any chance you'll be working on an e36 kit anytime soon? :D

The Canton pan doesn't stick down below the subframe and provides better clearance than the stock GTO modified pan (unless you also modify the GTO pan to also make it shallower) It has a good baffle system, and holds 6.5 quarts. It is a solid option for doing the swap. The garagistic part also looks good based on the couple photos they have showing it. A little wider and more shallow although it does look very similar to the Canton pan. **edit - the more I look at it, their photos look nearly identical to the Canton pan.

Here is one of the mockups I did showing it in relation to a set of G&S mounts a friend had at the time.



With the motor mounts out, the G&S motor mount arms are about an inch at the mount point in relation to the subframe. Add 2.5 +/-" of motor mount back in and the oil pan sits well above the subframe.

[sgtskid]

Our oil pan has built in baffling system of trap door to keep that oil slosh down. Pair that up with our windage tray option and you got an ls1 that will never suffer from oil starvation. Our pan allows allows to motor to be mounted further back then most of the setups out there (our mounts should be ready for production soon!)

So this will clear an e30 rack without issue? What about a Z3 rack?

[sgtskid]

interesting - another option.

On a side note, which headers are those and did they fit?

The Canton pan doesn't stick down below the subframe and provides better clearance than the stock GTO modified pan (unless you also modify the GTO pan to also make it shallower) It has a good baffle system, and holds 6.5 quarts. It is a solid option for doing the swap. The garagistic part also looks good based on the couple photos they have showing it. A little wider and more shallow although it does look very similar to the Canton pan. **edit - the more I look at it, their photos look nearly identical to the Canton pan.

Here is one of the mockups I did showing it in relation to a set of G&S mounts a friend had at the time.



With the motor mounts out, the G&S motor mount arms are about an inch at the mount point in relation to the subframe. Add 2.5 +/-" of motor mount back in and the oil pan sits well above the subframe.

[iflytii]

interesting - another option.

On a side note, which headers are those and did they fit?

Those are Sanderson headers, using the left and right from 2 different kits, and yes they work with certain mounts.

You want the LEFT CC1-LS1, and the RIGHT LS-150 headers. Alternatively you can also get the 1 5/8" versions of both those headers - just call and ask and they will sell them that way.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

**edit - should have mentioned to my knowledge Garrett and Steve were the ones who originally figured out that header combo so they certainly deserve credit for that info!

[sgtskid]

Those are Sanderson headers, using the left and right from 2 different kits, and yes they work with certain mounts.

You want the LEFT CC1-LS1, and the RIGHT LS-150 headers. Alternatively you can also get the 1 5/8" versions of both those headers - just call and ask and they will sell them that way.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

**edit - should have mentioned to my knowledge Garrett and Steve were the ones who originally figured out that header combo so they certainly deserve credit for that info!

If you haven't installed the engine in your car yet, would you mind taking a few quick measurements of that pan?

[jalopi]

oh my... well i guess i've been proven wrong. as to how wrong... well i guess it'd be nice to see a pic of the engine actually mounted up, can't really tell what the true fitment's like with it mounted 3"ish low and 6"ish forward

[iflytii]

If you haven't installed the engine in your car yet, would you mind taking a few quick measurements of that pan?

Sorry, it's already in a friends car.

oh my... well i guess i've been proven wrong. as to how wrong... well i guess it'd be nice to see a pic of the engine actually mounted up, can't really tell what the true fitment's like with it mounted 3"ish low and 6"ish forward

In that photo, the block/pan is located directly over the motor mount holes in relation to those G&S motor mount arms. The only thing that would change in this case would be the motor would raise up to put the motor mount between the subframe and motor arm. It is positioned fore and aft where it would sit in relation to the subframe in the car (there is a ton of room!). There is room to move the motor back if you were to use different mounts. Those Garrett and Steve mounts give about 1-1.5" clearance at the firewall if I remember correctly, so with custom mounts you could scoot things back and still have room with the Canton pan.

This is where that canton pan and those headers ended up:




I'll see if the guys at GPR have any better photos showing the pan installed from under the car.